Members StompBoxLover Posted March 21, 2010 Author Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 here are the pics unfinished and after 3 coats. plain tiny birdseyes??? where did these come from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members PlectrumPete Posted March 21, 2010 Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 .. tiny birdseyes??? where did these come from? Looks like bubbles to me. Can you feel them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members k4df4l Posted March 21, 2010 Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 While it's from a wood turner's perspective, here's a pretty complete discussion of drying oils, modified oil finishes and some reviews: http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=567 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members StompBoxLover Posted March 21, 2010 Author Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 Looks like bubbles to me. Can you feel them? 'course not.the neck is smooth like glass, no bubbles. It's in the wood, not on the wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members scud133 Posted March 21, 2010 Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 It's the same thing (as long as you meant gunstock oil, and not gun oil) did you read the product description on amazon?? i'm dying over here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members atrox Posted March 21, 2010 Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 Tru-Oil is the only thing I use for a finish. And I'll have to disagree with Quarter, I think it's way easier than nitro Here's a Mahogany LP Studio I converted to a wrap bridge a couple years back. Put a Tru-Oil finish over the stock finish after the conversion. Looks awesome I think Quarter was referring to getting a mirror finish. Getting that mirror finish with Tru-oil is a battle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members pekelnik Posted March 21, 2010 Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 did you read the product description on amazon?? i'm dying over here Oh my. I guess that wasn't *entirely* what he had in mind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cavpilot Posted March 21, 2010 Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 FWIW, I was able to get the same semi-shiny finish on my VMLP by using Virtuoso polish. How well did the Tru-oil grain fill for you? Tru-Oil is the only thing I use for a finish. And I'll have to disagree with Quarter, I think it's way easier than nitro Here's a Mahogany LP Studio I converted to a wrap bridge a couple years back. Put a Tru-Oil finish over the stock finish after the conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cavpilot Posted March 21, 2010 Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 Did the Tru-oil ever fully set up on the rosewood? I put some Tru-oil on a neck with a rosewood fretboard; a few hours later the maple side of the neck was cured while the rosewood was still tacky 3 weeks later. It did make the rosewood color pop but what a PITA it was getting the sticky uncured Tru-oil off the fretboard... I just started oiling a rosewood neck today . I actually put one coat of oil on the board itself. it's a light enough coat that you don't feel it, but it makes the wood look awesome and makes it slighter easier to clean off. After that, I usually do oil the sides of the rosewood only with the rest of the neck. It's forgiving enough that if you get some on the top of the fretboard, you can usually quickly even it all out with a fresh cloth ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members StompBoxLover Posted March 21, 2010 Author Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 Did the Tru-oil ever fully set up on the rosewood? I put some Tru-oil on a neck with a rosewood fretboard; a few hours later the maple side of the neck was cured while the rosewood was still tacky 3 weeks later. It did make the rosewood color pop but what a PITA it was getting the sticky uncured Tru-oil off the fretboard... from the Birchwood Casey brochure, section Trouble Shooting, that came with the Tru-Oil: "Tru-Oil will not dry if applied over an oil-emitting wood (like rosewood, ebony, exotic woods) or lubricating oil, tung oil, or linseed oil." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members atrox Posted March 21, 2010 Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 Did the Tru-oil ever fully set up on the rosewood? I put some Tru-oil on a neck with a rosewood fretboard; a few hours later the maple side of the neck was cured while the rosewood was still tacky 3 weeks later. It did make the rosewood color pop but what a PITA it was getting the sticky uncured Tru-oil off the fretboard... you want to buff it out with 0000 steel wool. after that, the tackiness will go away and the wood still retains that rich color Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cavpilot Posted March 21, 2010 Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 from the Birchwood Casey brochure, section Trouble Shooting, that came with the Tru-Oil: "Tru-Oil will not dry if applied over an oil-emitting wood (like rosewood, ebony, exotic woods) or lubricating oil, tung oil, or linseed oil." Well, there was the answer. Too bad my bottle didn't come with a brochure. I had Googled "Tru-oil + rosewood" and didn't come up with anything concrete, yet I had seen examples of people who had done it. Live and learn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members atrox Posted March 21, 2010 Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 Well, there was the answer. Too bad my bottle didn't come with a brochure. I had Googled "Tru-oil + rosewood" and didn't come up with anything concrete, yet I had seen examples of people who had done it. Live and learn done it a few times. doing it now. maybe your rosewood is extra oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members StompBoxLover Posted March 21, 2010 Author Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 you want to buff it out with 0000 steel wool. after that, the tackiness will go away and the wood still retains that rich color real world experience: 1 Tru-Oil brochure: 0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members atrox Posted March 21, 2010 Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 real world experience: 1 Tru-Oil brochure: 0 sort of. I mean, without buffing it with something to take away that extra sheen, it will stay a little tackier. The trick is to get that top layer off. After that i have never noticed any residue or anything. I use it on ebony as well more often than rosewood as I tend not to build guitars with rosewood boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Quarter Posted March 21, 2010 Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 Some rosewoods are more oily than others. I tried some TO on a cocobolo test piece and it was all fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mutant_guitar Posted March 21, 2010 Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 Can you use a stain before tru-oil? yes, with beautiful results. this was done using stew mac vintage amber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Citizen Cain Posted March 21, 2010 Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 FWIW, I was able to get the same semi-shiny finish on my VMLP by using Virtuoso polish. How well did the Tru-oil grain fill for you? As above, I didn't try to do any grain filling on this one. This pic doesn't really reveal the shininess of the finish. It's much more than semi-shiny. I did a Virtuoso polish treatment prior to this and there's much more shine with the Tru-Oil. I did another Tru-Oil project where I went for the mirror finish but I used regular grain filler on that first so I can't really comment on how the T-O works for grain filling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cavpilot Posted March 21, 2010 Members Share Posted March 21, 2010 done it a few times. doing it now. maybe your rosewood is extra oily The only reason I even tried the TO on rosewood is because it was the driest fretboard I'd ever seen. No life/depth to it at all. Some 0000 steel wool and acetone took off the stickiness and left some depth of color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dcindc Posted March 22, 2010 Members Share Posted March 22, 2010 I use acetone to clean the rosewood board before putting it on. Never had a sticky problem. I've done a couple that way. I like it on RW boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members pekelnik Posted March 23, 2010 Members Share Posted March 23, 2010 I'm doing experiments on a scrap chunk of SA. It seems to me now that a reasonable way to achieve a shiny finish where the grain doesn't show through would be something like 5 coats, sand, 5 coats, sand, 5 coats, sand lightly, coat or two. I tried the grain filling thing atrox suggested but can't quite get the hang of it. Maybe it works better when the pores are large.. And welcome back DC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members clay sails Posted March 23, 2010 Members Share Posted March 23, 2010 Damn. My hat goes off to you guitar builders. Beautiful stuff. I now officially have gas for an oil finished guitar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members atrox Posted March 23, 2010 Members Share Posted March 23, 2010 I'm doing experiments on a scrap chunk of SA. It seems to me now that a reasonable way to achieve a shiny finish where the grain doesn't show through would be something like 5 coats, sand, 5 coats, sand, 5 coats, sand lightly, coat or two. I tried the grain filling thing atrox suggested but can't quite get the hang of it. Maybe it works better when the pores are large..And welcome back DC. yeah... it's a battle. On something like mahogany, you really need to push that sludge into in the grain. On something with tight grain, it shouldn't really take much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members HanSolo Posted March 23, 2010 Members Share Posted March 23, 2010 yeah... it's a battle. On something like mahogany, you really need to push that sludge into in the grain. On something with tight grain, it shouldn't really take much I have some gunstock experience but never did a guitar in Tru-Oil. I always used polyurethane as a grain filler first when going for a glassy finish. I applied the poly with a foam brush, let is set for a bit to thicken to a syrup and then wiped off across the grain. I used a 0000 steel wool to remove any that remained on the surface and then used the Tru-Oil. It really sped up the process and cut the coats required in half. The idea of never using an oil-based penetrating finish comes from the world of acoustic instruments. The school of thought was the wood is seasoned and dried for both dimensional stability and to enhance its acoustic properties. Applying a deep pentrating oil finish or stain deadens the acoustic properties of the wood. The finishes were mostly lacquer based and dyes were dissolved in the lacquer to impart the color. If you chipped the finish, the wood underneath was white. The "French Polish" finish is shellac which does not penetrate the wood either. Oil is only used in the padding process as a lubricant so as not to lift the previous shellac coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members StompBoxLover Posted March 23, 2010 Author Members Share Posted March 23, 2010 I'm really happy with what I got so far - the back of the nack and the fretboard look perfect, but I'll add a few more coats to the headstock to give it a more 'golden' colour. tomorrow I'll pick up the ash body from customs - need more Tru-Oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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