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need amp advice


MartinC

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A lot of modern solid state amps are designed to try to sound like tube amps, and don't always succeed. But old SS amps, designed before "get tube tone" was the mission statement, sound pretty good---different, but good. That would include the Roland JC-120, which as been around for a long time, but I've also gotten some cool sounds from old Acoustics (the original ones) and, believe it or not, Rickenbacker solid state amps. The Rickenbacker TR series, including the little ones, have great tremolo.

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Here's something I find highly annoying. How many years now has Fender been selling the "65 Twin Reverb"? Every year it's the same thing, however, nothing could be further from the truth. 60's and 70's Fender tube amps were basically point to point wiring with a sort of leather strap type of circuit "card" the likes of which I've never seen in any other electronic device. The modern "'65 Twin Reverb" amps all have etched fiberglass circuit boards.

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In all fairness, however, I've nearly always gotten great guitar sound from my tube amps as well except for the smaller ones where they distort too quickly for me as the volume goes up.

 

 

This is the exact reason I want a smaller tube amp. I can never turn my 40 watt amp up loud enough to get it to naturally overdrive. I want an amp I can really push to get that nice tube overdrive.

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This is the exact reason I want a smaller tube amp. I can never turn my 40 watt amp up loud enough to get it to naturally overdrive. I want an amp I can really push to get that nice tube overdrive.

I run in stereo with my Valvetronix set to 15 watts and a 5 watt tube amp on the other side. (both set to similar volume)Plenty of stage volume.

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HAHA-split the shipping? That thing is a brick. I was born at night, but not last night! I'll strengthen my back in exchange for that tone. How do you know if it's a IIA , B, C. etc. I just looked at it and didn't see any info.

 

 

well ... i was sure that you would throw in the towel, buy a little Fender or Vox and sell this Mesa. Then, i was ready to offer you a disgustingly lowball amount to get it off your hands, maybe even ask you to throw in or split the shipping. of course, you never mentioned if it was a IIA, IIB, IIC, or IIC+ ... not that i was THAT concerned. of course, check out my sig, you might notice what i think sounds good.


of course, i'm a bigger guy so lugging around a 80# amp is no big deal. those repairs are normal after 20 years ...

 

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I'd say fix the Mesa, but if you HAVE to get a new amp, definitely look into the Peavey Class 30, they are a great little amp for the $$.

 

 

I agree. I've had mine for nearly three years now with no mods and I just love it. It has been a real workhorse. It recently took a little tumble before one gig and the treble pot got a bit compressed when it fell. Because of that, the knob won't grip anymore, but other than that, it still works great. It makes it a lot easier to play on stage when you have a really good tone to work with.

 

Now I just gotta find (or build) an extension cab for it...

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HAHA-split the shipping? That thing is a brick. I was born at night, but not last night! I'll strengthen my back in exchange for that tone. How do you know if it's a IIA , B, C. etc. I just looked at it and didn't see any info.

 

 

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mesa_Boogie_Mark_Series

 

Mark IIA

The Mark II introduced channel footswitching, and wasn't referred to as the "Mark IIA" until the Mark IIB was issued. It was also available as a head, which could be hooked up to a number of different speaker combinations, although a 1x12 cabinet was typical. However, the reverb circuit is considered noisy and the footswitching made a popping sound when used; both of these features were later improved on the Mark IIC. The preamp gain on the Mark IIs occurs after the tone controls and so, according to Mesa/Boogie, the IIA has a "tighter, more focused sound" than the Mark I.[citation needed]


The IIA and IIB, and some late-model Mark I amps, used a silicon device called "fetron" in place of one of the 12AX7 preamp tubes, and included a switch for configuring the amp for either fetron or 12AX7 operation. The reason for using a fetron was to address some of the problems associated with microphonic 12AX7 tubes in a high-gain situation; its use was later discontinued.


[edit] Mark IIB

The Mark IIB introduced an effects loop and an expanded control panel, featuring both a lead drive and a lead master dial. More importantly, it marked the introduction of Mesa/Boogie's "simul-class" system, where two of the power tubes (always 6L6s) run in class AB pentode while the other two tubes (either 6L6s or EL34s) run in class A triode. In a simul-class amp, running all four tubes generates approximately 75 watts RMS of power; running only the class A tubes produces about 15 watts. Also available were non-simul-class Mark IIBs in both a 60 watt version and a 100 watt version that allowed shifting down to 60 watts by turning off a pair of power tubes.


The two input jacks on the front panel are marked "Input" and "Foot Switch." The front panels read Volume, Treble, Bass, Middle, Master, Lead Drive and Master. It has "Pull Bright" on the Volume, "Pull Shift" on the Treble, and "Pull Bright" on the Master.


[edit] Mark IIC & IIC+

The Mark IIC featured a quieter footswitching system and a new mod to the reverb circuit. According to Sacks[who?], "The reverb was noise-ridden on the Mark II, a problem which persisted with some IIB models as well. The solution Mesa came up with involved resistor swaps and a change in ground lead placement. That mod[ification] is still on the books of 'official' mods, which they send to their authorized techs; it runs about $50."[citation needed] Mesa/Boogie no longer does this modification at its own factory.


The Mark IIC+ was the last of the Mark II series and featured a more sensitive lead channel and, more importantly, an improved circuitry in the effects loop. Unlike earlier Mark II models, pedals could be used without the amp's signal overloading their inputs. However, the volume pedal option on the Mark IIB cannot be implemented on Mark IIC+s.


Some owners/dealers/sellers say the "+" refers to an amp having an EQ, but they are mistaken. The mistake may have originated in the mid 1980s, when Mesa/Boogie issued their Studio .22 model and then changed the name to Studio .22+, which featured improved wiring, etc. All the Mark II models could be made with EQ as an option, but not all of them did. A Mark IIC+ could, for example, refer to a 100 watt amp without EQ or reverb.


One can tell if a particular amp is a "+" by looking for a hand-written black "+" mark directly above where the power cord attaches to the back of the amp. Many dealers increase the price on a Mark IIC+ but often don't know anything about what the "+" means--they often don't even know where to find the "+" mark. Indeed, the mark itself can be forged. An owner can call Mesa/Boogie and ask them to check his or her serial number against their records. Mesa/Boogie only made about 1,400 Mark II amps before going to the Mark IIC+.


The Mark IIC and IIC+ are gaining reputations in vintage circles as the best Boogies, next to the classic Mark I, due to their much-praised rhythm channels, and to a lesser degree their lead channels.

 

 

http://www.mesaboogie.com/manuals/user_manuals.htm

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I actually have a blues deluxe, but at 40 watts, it's so freakin loud that I. Can never turn it up past 2 on the master and 4 on the gain. I'm definitely going to be switching to a 15w amp in the near future and I'm leaning towards to jr.

 

NO!

 

Just swap out the 12AX7 preamp tube for a 12AU7. Trust me on this: my guitarist also has a blues deluxe with the same issue.

 

He did that tube swap, and it's night and day in terms of how it affects the volume curve: also the tone is a little warmer now.

 

It ain't the watts: it's a funky preamp circuit you're dealing with on those amps. You'll notice that once you get it to "4" or so, you can then crank it wide open and it really doesn't get that much louder.

 

Save yourself a ton of cash and swap that tube dude: this is a known issue with that amp (my lead guitarist builds amps and that's what he recommended, and I've seen and heard the result - so trust me on this.)

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NO!


Just swap out the 12AX7 preamp tube for a 12AU7. Trust me on this: my guitarist also has a blues deluxe with the same issue.


He did that tube swap, and it's night and day in terms of how it affects the volume curve: also the tone is a little warmer now.


It ain't the watts: it's a funky preamp circuit you're dealing with on those amps. You'll notice that once you get it to "4" or so, you can then crank it wide open and it really doesn't get that much louder.


Save yourself a ton of cash and swap that tube dude: this is a known issue with that amp (my lead guitarist builds amps and that's what he recommended, and I've seen and heard the result - so trust me on this.)

 

 

Cool, I'll give it a whirl. Thanks.

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I like the HRD, but I always found that series of amps to be strangely "un-Fenderey." Not
bad
, in fact I've heard some really nice tones from them, but just not what I normally expect from a Fender.


Thoughts?

 

I agree. They definitely are a different sound than the twin series amps. I'd say they are closer to Vox in tone than the Twins.

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I did the preamp tube swap in my HRD too. I went to 12AT7s, which are less hotter input tubes and even a little less so that the AU7s. I also took out that gawdawful Eminence speaker that was so high-middy sounding and put in an 85 watt Celestion I had laying around and it made a bit of difference as well. I get a throatier more Fender tone out of it. I really like the versatility of that amp, and now it's perfect for what I do. The overdrive is creamier.

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