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Awesome Superfuzz Mod


echodeluxe

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Of course you replace the pot with a resistor to ground to fake it being wide open, but it's still no louder than if it had had the pot, and that isn't particularly loud. Without blessing the appropriate idols and performing the delicate balancing act to perfectly match the five components involved in active amplification, I don't see how you could build it otherwise, and even then you might need a hotter transistor.

 

 

hmm. what transistor did you use?

and how loud does it get? is it really quiet and sputtery? did you make sure the bias resistors were correct?

 

when i had an issue with one of the boosters, it was real quiet and sputtery, so the first thing i checked was the bias resistors and sure enough, i had put them in backwards.

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thats the battery box.


the ratty lookin part i just noticed. its the end of the wire i twisted around the lug. i didnt notice that it was sticking out like that till just now. im gonna clip it off. the soldering is fine.


so, we are up to two negative comments so far. lonely night, guys?


okay, so three negative comments. no, the switch is a slide, and they dont care about that. they just wanted a boost.


and thats where they told me to put the switches.


{censored} man.

 

Get used to it. :thu:

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3904. It definitely boosts so I assume it's working fine, just not as loud as I expected. No more than say, my OD-1 dimed.

 

 

hmm, well, every common emitter boost ive made is way loud.

 

they are easy enough, try another one and pay close attention to everything you do, then stick a pot on it and see if its different, i feel like theres a mistake somewhere cuz mine are all loud as hell.

 

actually, whats the value of the resistor youve got comin of the emitter and the collector?

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Of course you replace the pot with a resistor to ground to fake it being wide open, but it's still no louder than if it had had the pot, and that isn't particularly loud. Without blessing the appropriate idols and performing the delicate balancing act to perfectly match the five components involved in active amplification, I don't see how you could build it otherwise, and even then you might need a hotter transistor.

 

 

The LPB1 is a textbook common emitter amp. The gain is, for the most part, determined by the ratio of the collector and emitter resistors. As long as you stay well below the open circuit gain of the transistor (beta, or hfe) then you shouldn't have trouble getting just about any level of gain you want.

 

You're correct - removing the pot from the output wouldn't change the gain at all. Besides not being able to adjust the signal level going into the next stage, it would probably change the load impedance on the booster, which could change the minimum frequency for the output stage. However, with a coupling cap of 0.1uF I think you'd be good well under 100Hz in just about any case.

 

And yes - changing the collector and emitter resistors to get a different ratio changes just about everything else. It changes the static current and voltage of the collector and emitter. Changing the static emitter voltage also changes the bias point for the base, which means you'd want to change the ladder that sets the base bias. All of these changes would also change the input and output impedance.

 

The correct approach is to start with your target operating characteristics, and then calculate the values needed from that. Pick the collector resistor based on the output impedance you want. Pick the emitter resistor to give the proper ratio (Rc/Re) for the gain you want. Double check the values by determining how much current will flow through collector resistor if it's dropping half of the Vcc (the centerline), and make sure it's well under the limits for the transistor collector current. Calculate the voltage on the emitter by figuring out the voltage drop across the emitter resistor at the centerline collector current. Add about 0.6V to the emitter voltage, and use this as the target voltage for the base. Choose the first base resistor based on the input impedance you want, and then calculate what the current through the bias ladder will be when the base voltage is 0.6V above the emitter voltage. Use this current value to determine the value of the second base resistor. Finally, make sure the input and output coupling caps will not drop more than a dB or two at the minimum frequency you want the circuit to operate at, using the input impedance as the "R" for the input RC time, and the load impedance as the "R" for output RC time.

 

Do the calculations in more or less the above order and you should be good to go. I made an Excel spreadsheet that makes this pretty simple.

 

Personally, I thought the mod was pretty cool, and it sounds awesome through the old GA30. Admittedly, echodeluxe could have been a little more patient and applied a little more finesse in the actual construction, but it's hard to be really precise because the Wattson shop doesn't have any real machine tools. We only have some basic hand tools. That's why we farm out the construction of our enclosures to a professional sheet metal fabricator.

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The LPB1 is a textbook common emitter amp. The gain is, for the most part, determined by the ratio of the collector and emitter resistors. As long as you stay well below the open circuit gain of the transistor (beta, or hfe) then you shouldn't have trouble getting just about any level of gain you want.


You're correct - removing the pot from the output wouldn't change the gain at all. Besides not being able to adjust the signal level going into the next stage, it would probably change the load impedance on the booster, which could change the minimum frequency for the output stage. However, with a coupling cap of 0.1uF I think you'd be good well under 100Hz in just about any case.


And yes - changing the collector and emitter resistors to get a different ratio changes just about everything else. It changes the static current and voltage of the collector and emitter. Changing the static emitter voltage also changes the bias point for the base, which means you'd want to change the ladder that sets the base bias. All of these changes would also change the input and output impedance.


The correct approach is to start with your target operating characteristics, and then calculate the values needed from that. Pick the collector resistor based on the output impedance you want. Pick the emitter resistor to give the proper ratio (Rc/Re) for the gain you want. Double check the values by determining how much current will flow through collector resistor if it's dropping half of the Vcc (the centerline), and make sure it's well under the limits for the transistor collector current. Calculate the voltage on the emitter by figuring out the voltage drop across the emitter resistor at the centerline collector current. Add about 0.6V to the emitter voltage, and use this as the target voltage for the base. Choose the first base resistor based on the input impedance you want, and then calculate what the current through the bias ladder will be when the base voltage is 0.6V above the emitter voltage. Use this current value to determine the value of the second base resistor. Finally, make sure the input and output coupling caps will not drop more than a dB or two at the minimum frequency you want the circuit to operate at, using the input impedance as the "R" for the input RC time, and the load impedance as the "R" for output RC time.


Do the calculations in more or less the above order and you should be good to go. I made an Excel spreadsheet that makes this pretty simple.


Personally, I thought the mod was pretty cool, and it sounds awesome through the old GA30. Admittedly, echodeluxe could have been a little more patient and applied a little more finesse in the actual construction, but it's hard to be really precise because the Wattson shop doesn't have any real machine tools. We only have some basic hand tools. That's why we farm out the construction of our enclosures to a professional sheet metal fabricator.

 

this post is why I love amp surgeon :love:

 

 

manly, non erotic love of course

 

 

 

 

maybe

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Personally, I thought the mod was pretty cool, and it sounds awesome through the old GA30. Admittedly, echodeluxe could have been a little more patient and applied a little more finesse in the actual construction, but it's hard to be really precise because the Wattson shop doesn't have any real machine tools. We only have some basic hand tools. That's why we farm out the construction of our enclosures to a professional sheet metal fabricator.

 

 

we need a T square and drill press.

 

wait, no we dont. we dont make enclosures in house.

 

but whatever, i made do with what i could. bahh.

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we need a T square and drill press.


wait, no we dont. we dont make enclosures in house.


but whatever, i made do with what i could. bahh.

 

I know you've already gotten a lot of flak for this but WHY put the switch so close? That enclosure is ginormous! :lol:

 

I mean was it intentional? Per the customer's request?

 

Did you charge money for this?

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which part was the fail?

 

 

I'm just teasing you like the others. The switches do look a bit odd, and not quite even. This is something I would do too, so no sweat. I'm not sure why your customers would want them that close together, but if that's what they want, give em what they want.

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I know you've already gotten a lot of flak for this but WHY put the switch so close? That enclosure is ginormous!
:lol:

I mean was it intentional? Per the customer's request?


Did you charge money for this?

 

it was intentional, as per customers request.

 

also, believe it or not there are not many places to mount an entire new switch on here because of the flanges from the bottom piece that support the top, and as you get closer to the front, the circuit board is there, and farther back, youve got the logo plus the jacks are there.

 

they wanted the mods done this way, i talked to the dude for like 45 mintues planning where everything could go and he gave me the heads up.

 

they are only paying for parts.

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I'm just teasing you like the others. The switches do look a bit odd, and not quite even. This is something I would do too, so no sweat. I'm not sure why your customers would want them that close together, but if that's what they want, give em what they want.

 

 

i told them that putting another dpdt in there wasnt practical, but they wanted the whole thing. i told them i could put the circuit after the superfuzz circuit and i could put a small toggle on the top for the boost, but they wanted it footswitchable.

 

keeping in mind that this isnt a wattson mod...

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GOtcha! Sometimes it just fun to watch your threads implode on you, no offense, haha. Sounds like you're doing just what your customers asked, and we're all giving you {censored}. It's amusing more for us, then you I know;)

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GOtcha! Sometimes it just fun to watch your threads implode on you, no offense, haha. Sounds like you're doing just what your customers asked, and we're all giving you {censored}. It's amusing more for us, then you I know;)

 

 

hah honestly, it is funny, because i actually get frustrated. i had to edit my last post to T3 cuz i called him a {censored}tool. haha.

 

yeah im not sure why anyone is giving me {censored} anyway. isnt it comforting to know that there are people out there who will do whatever their customers want? i mean i know a lot of people on here dont like me, but i know i didnt do anything to deserve that. whattttever

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I think that in some cases (like this) putting 2 switches close together makes sense. When you want an instant wall of loud fuzz all you need to do is stomp on both of them at the same time. I'm doing that with Fulldrive sometimes..

 

I like it :thu:

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hello cowgirl in the sand

 

 

+1

 

Also, blaming the title of this thread or the worksmanship of the mod for the grief-giving is silly - you guys just give grief because you're assholes, usually. OR you enjoy seeing echo flap around like a seal on ice.

 

That said, I think it was foolish of the fellow to ask for another switch that close. I have issues with the 4ms Stereo Panneur for this reason and would NOT get something with switches that close ever again. BAD IDEA.

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