Jump to content

pink sparkle strat paintjob


Recommended Posts

  • Members

I knew a guy who used to buy japanese strats back in the late 80's/early 90s and give them sparkly paint jobs. of course he'd grind down the bodies, put floyd roses on them, active pickups and ugly pick guards. For a while he couldn't do enough of them... then the 90s happened. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply
  • Members

{censored} i might have to do that gold pickguard. phil, i'm using krylon "plush pink" glitter spray paint. i wouldn't really recommend it though, i've gone through several cans and almost all of them have malfunctioned on me (spray button gets stuck and wastes a ton of paint). 100 dollar cars, did you use polyurethane to seal it? and did you brush it on or spray it? i'm worried that i might have issues with trying to brush clear coat over the sparkles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

{censored} i might have to do that gold pickguard. phil, i'm using krylon "plush pink" glitter spray paint. i wouldn't really recommend it though, i've gone through several cans and almost all of them have malfunctioned on me (spray button gets stuck and wastes a ton of paint). 100 dollar cars, did you use polyurethane to seal it? and did you brush it on or spray it? i'm worried that i might have issues with trying to brush clear coat over the sparkles

 

 

i used spray cans for paint and seal. i used 2, maybe 2.5 cans of poly to seal in the glitter. since you painted the back of the guitar, make sure you really spray that a lot with poly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

i used krylon clearcoat gloss. not sure if that is the right stuff to use, but it worked. i painted the body orange a long time before i sprayed it, so if the finish does wear off, it'll at least still be orange. hah.

 

maybe Phil can tell you what poly is best.. nitro would be best, as far as opinions i've read, that is.

 

are you doing the head cap?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

maybe Phil can tell you what poly is best.

 

Unfortunately, I really don't know. I've been using nitrocellulose lacquer over a shellac primer with what I think are pretty decent results. I haven't really been keeping up with the latest in polyurethane options for the DIY refinisher. Sorry. :o

 

What I do recommend though is test-spraying. IMO, it's best to stick with the same company and paint type for the color and clear coats if you can. If you decide not to follow that advice, IMO, the test sprays are essential. Use a piece of scrap wood and spray a few square inches of the primer / color coats / clear coats you plan on using. Better to see it bubble up due to incompatibility on a piece of scrap wood than on the surface of your guitar. This is more likely to occur when mixing paint types and brands for the various "layers" of a finish.

 

i used krylon clearcoat gloss. not sure if that is the right stuff to use, but it worked.

 

IMO, that was a smart decision. Like I said - if I was using Krylon for the color, I'd want to use the clear from that same category of Krylon. IOW, if I used Krylon acrylic color, I'd want to get the Krylon acrylic clear. It's your best chance of avoiding problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

{censored} i might have to do that gold pickguard. phil, i'm using krylon "plush pink" glitter spray paint. i wouldn't really recommend it though, i've gone through several cans and almost all of them have malfunctioned on me (spray button gets stuck and wastes a ton of paint). 100 dollar cars, did you use polyurethane to seal it? and did you brush it on or spray it? i'm worried that i might have issues with trying to brush clear coat over the sparkles

 

 

I had some Dupli-Color Metal Specks Retro Red that I was considering using on my '71 Mustang, but since it was only the second guitar I'd ever attempted to refinish, I decided to stick with nitro and I painted it Fiesta Red instead. I like the way it looks, but the candy red of the Metal Specks would have been closer to its stock CAR ("Competition Red") finish. I just didn't like the way it sprayed when I did some test shots. It seemed to take a LOT to get it to cover, and it seemed really inconsistent in the way it sprayed. It looks like a really cool color - maybe someone who was a better painter than I am could get great results with it, but I didn't feel comfortable trying.

 

I know it sounds crazy, but nitrocellulose is really easy to get good results with - well, it DOES take significant elbow grease in terms of buffing and sanding, but it sprays pretty easily. It's just really, really nasty stuff. You have to spray it outdoors, and / or with a respirator on. You definitely don't want to make a habit of breathing the stuff straight.

 

I hear that some of the new poly processes are super fast in terms of drying time. 20 minutes. And it seems like some of the newer poly finishes, such as in the Fender Jaguarillo, are pretty darned thin. I'm not sure if that same stuff is available for home use, but that's what I'd look into if I was going to check into poly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

$T2eC16hHJGoE9nuQhoiDBP8b,Pluow~~60_57.J

 

 

...or a wood guard, stained in color pinstripes. Would also look killer with MoT pearl and filtertron lookin pups. I'd pass on matching headstock. Also, you could do white guard, black pups, and brass hardware (not gold plated, actuall brass).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

maybe Phil can tell you what poly is best.


Unfortunately, I really don't know. I've been using nitrocellulose lacquer over a shellac primer with what I think are pretty decent results. I haven't really been keeping up with the latest in polyurethane options for the DIY refinisher. Sorry.
:o

What I do recommend though is test-spraying. IMO, it's best to stick with the same company and paint type for the color and clear coats if you can. If you decide not to follow that advice, IMO, the test sprays are essential. Use a piece of scrap wood and spray a few square inches of the primer / color coats / clear coats you plan on using. Better to see it bubble up due to incompatibility on a piece of scrap wood than on the surface of your guitar. This is more likely to occur when mixing paint types and brands for the various "layers" of a finish.


nitro really is the stuff to use...i used krylon clearcoat gloss. not sure if that is the right stuff to use, but it worked just fine.


IMO, that was a smart decision. Like I said - if I was using Krylon for the color, I'd want to use the clear from that same category of Krylon. IOW, if I used Krylon acrylic color, I'd want to get the Krylon acrylic clear. It's your best chance of avoiding problems.

 

yeah, try it on scrap wood first. i used the back of the guitar because i knew i wasn't going to paint it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

I had some Dupli-Color Metal Specks Retro Red that I was considering using on my '71 Mustang, but since it was only the second guitar I'd ever attempted to refinish, I decided to stick with nitro and I painted it Fiesta Red instead. I like the way it looks, but the candy red of the Metal Specks would have been closer to its stock CAR ("Competition Red") finish. I just didn't like the way it sprayed when I did some test shots. It seemed to take a LOT to get it to cover, and it seemed really inconsistent in the way it sprayed. It looks like a really cool color - maybe someone who was a better painter than I am could get great results with it, but I didn't feel comfortable trying.


I know it sounds crazy, but nitrocellulose is really easy to get good results with - well, it DOES take significant elbow grease in terms of buffing and sanding, but it sprays pretty easily. It's just really, really nasty stuff. You have to spray it outdoors, and / or with a respirator on. You definitely don't want to make a habit of breathing the stuff straight.


I hear that some of the new poly processes are super fast in terms of drying time. 20 minutes. And it seems like some of the newer poly finishes, such as in the Fender Jaguarillo, are pretty darned thin. I'm not sure if that same stuff is available for home use, but that's what I'd look into if I was going to check into poly.

 

 

69-71 mustangs are amazing. i'm drooling over a comp orange with racing stripe. in fact, all the comp colors were superb.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

is there any way to know for sure that a pickguard online would fit on this guitar by looking at it? i can't remember but it could possibly be a japanese squier. does the number of pickguard holes say anything about it? and would the worst case be just drilling new holes?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

is there any way to know for sure that a pickguard online would fit on this guitar by looking at it? i can't remember but it could possibly be a japanese squier. does the number of pickguard holes say anything about it? and would the worst case be just drilling new holes?

 

 

It looks like it has 11 holes. That corresponds with the 60s era pickguards. In the 1950s, they only used 8 holes.

 

That is no guarantee that an 11 hole pickguard is going to line up with all of the pre-existing holes though. It might, but short of doing a direct comparison, or trying one out, there's no way to be sure it is going to work. A 11 hole Fender pickguard should "cover" everything, and you can always fill / redrill the holes if you need to... chances are good that you won't though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...