Members TheEsupremacy Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 So I went to my local Target the other day. The street adress of the Target? 5150. I was gonna snap a pic of it and post it on here. Would have made me lol. I actually use a Maxon OD808 and ISP up front. The key is to eq everything just right. It takes a while (10 minutes or so), but oh what a sick metal tone you can get without bees, noise, or other associated 5150 put downs. The higher the post, the better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members sahlomonic Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Would the noise gate be better in front or in the loop? On my XXX I use my ISP in the loop but haven't messed with it in front . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members TheEsupremacy Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Would the noise gate be better in front or in the loop? On my XXX I use my ISP in the loop but haven't messed with it in front . . . Depends on how noisey your guitar is. I have an ESP with that push/pull coil tap thing that gets really noisy (think Strat noisy, the ISP shuts it up completely. I tried it in the loops, fairly useless unless that's where you run all your pedals. Then, run it last in the chain and you'll be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members sahlomonic Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Also, new member of the 5150 crew. Picked up mine a week ago and couldn't be happier! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GregLast Posted January 4, 2010 Author Members Share Posted January 4, 2010 Welcome to the family homie!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members kmanick Posted January 4, 2010 Members Share Posted January 4, 2010 anyone have instructions for the bias mod for the II(+) ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Cap'n Ahole Posted January 4, 2010 Members Share Posted January 4, 2010 anyone have instructions for the bias mod for the II(+) ??? I snagged this some time back somewhere, but havent felt the need to do it yet.. Inside the amp there is a small circuit board that has the bias trim pot mounted on it and the final bias resister which is a 12K 1/4 watt resister. All that's necessary is to replace that resister with a 6.8K (5-7k) 1/4 watt resister which will increase the window of available bias adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GregLast Posted January 4, 2010 Author Members Share Posted January 4, 2010 It's got a pot to adjust the bias already. Outside of changing the resistor for one of another value, I don't know what else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members OverDriven Posted January 4, 2010 Members Share Posted January 4, 2010 It's got a pot to adjust the bias already. Outside of changing the resistor for one of another value, I don't know what else. I'm pretty sure that's it...you have to change the pot to a different value. Which value...I'm not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Cap'n Ahole Posted January 4, 2010 Members Share Posted January 4, 2010 I'm pretty sure that's it...you have to change the pot to a different value. Which value...I'm not sure. Too easily missed.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members kmanick Posted January 4, 2010 Members Share Posted January 4, 2010 thanks I found that last night on the Eurotubes site. don't know if I need to do it though, mine is sounding pretty good as is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Cap'n Ahole Posted January 4, 2010 Members Share Posted January 4, 2010 thanks I found that last night on the Eurotubes site. don't know if I need to do it though, mine is sounding pretty good as is. Same here.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GibsonVMan Posted January 4, 2010 Members Share Posted January 4, 2010 Would have made me lol.I actually use a Maxon OD808 and ISP up front. The key is to eq everything just right. It takes a while (10 minutes or so), but oh what a sick metal tone you can get without bees, noise, or other associated 5150 put downs. The higher the post, the better. I have messed with this and I have to say ...it rocks! Also if you dial the gain way down on the crunch channel of a triple x, a tubescreamer sounds massive through it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members greatmutah Posted January 9, 2010 Members Share Posted January 9, 2010 In. Just got it today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JesterRace51 Posted January 9, 2010 Members Share Posted January 9, 2010 I don't boost mine. I run straight in with a ISP Decimator in loop. I used to boost mine religiously too back when I first discovered the whole clean boost theory, but now I just go straight in with an EQ in the loop. It's all I need. A lot of high gainers can benefit from a boost, Rectifiers in particular, but the 5150 is an amp that does NOT need a boost to sound it's best. It's already plenty tight enough, and it's already extremely midrangy as it is. The ONLY time I boost it is when using the rhythm channel because I find that channel to be a little bit looser and more open. I usually run the gain on 7 with the SD-1 in front for high gain rhythm stuff. When recording obviously I don't use as much gain, but that's what I set it at for live playing. But when I play on the lead channel, it's just straight in, gain around noon. The lead channel does NOT need a boost at all, lol. But yup, glad to see this thread is still alive. 5150s are among the best high gainers out there. Yes, it's a one trick pony but it does that one trick in spades. It has it's own sound. You know a 5150 when you hear it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members driverhasabomb Posted January 9, 2010 Members Share Posted January 9, 2010 I got a sweet deal on an old beat up block letter 5150. You guys with the grille on the front are you just leaving the back open and swapping the back to the front or buying the front somewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GregLast Posted January 9, 2010 Author Members Share Posted January 9, 2010 There are two grills. Just remove the wood behind the front grill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members driverhasabomb Posted January 9, 2010 Members Share Posted January 9, 2010 There are two grills. Just remove the wood behind the front grill.haha {censored} I'm stupid. Guess I should have turned my head and looked at it a little harder before asking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JeffReigns Posted January 27, 2010 Members Share Posted January 27, 2010 In! Back about 4 years ago I had this idea about how I wanted to sound, and as soon as I plugged into a 6505 I knew this is what I wanted. I honestly don't think I'd trade this amp for anything, I'd probably trade, then sell and buy another and get the new one modded maybe I'm running mine unmodded through a Krank Rev 4x12. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members sled Posted January 27, 2010 Members Share Posted January 27, 2010 I'm running mine unmodded through a Krank Rev 4x12. is that a stock Krank Cab with V12s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members xdomx Posted January 27, 2010 Members Share Posted January 27, 2010 I have a 6505 that I play through a Mesa Rectifier oversized 4x12. It sounds pretty sweet. p.s. GregLast, Over My Dead Body rule. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mikey383 Posted January 27, 2010 Members Share Posted January 27, 2010 I got my 5150 sig and cab for the sum of about $200. My drummer buddy borrowed a cymbal and the hi-hats from my drum set. The cymbal was stolen at a gig, and he needed the hi hats more than I did. He had the 5150 in his garage and said he was using it for a PA, but it stopped working. Jokingly, I told him I would take it and call it even for the cymbals, and he said "Sure, go ahead". So I grabbed it and went. Replaced a bad tube, bias modded it, and it's a beast now I think I had $100 in each of the cymbals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members OverDriven Posted January 27, 2010 Members Share Posted January 27, 2010 As you guys know, I'm now a member of the 5150 crew. Got my basically new (it was used by completely mint) 6505+ a couple weeks ago. Incredible amp, and my third amp from the 5150 series. Check out the first 2 clips in the link in my sig to hear it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Cap'n Ahole Posted January 29, 2010 Members Share Posted January 29, 2010 As you guys know, I'm now a member of the 5150 crew. Got my basically new (it was used by completely mint) 6505+ a couple weeks ago. Incredible amp, and my third amp from the 5150 series. Check out the first 2 clips in the link in my sig to hear it. Damn fine sound on those clips man Sounds meaty & strong.. & Ill bet one reason is that you werent using TOO much gain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ChadT Posted February 1, 2010 Members Share Posted February 1, 2010 I'm glad I found this thread. Just got a nice 5150 combo, sounds great (at high volumes). It needs new power tubes bad though since the JJ's are worn out and even microphonic. I keep hearing that Rubys are good for this amp, so I'll prob go with those, though I'm tempted to try TAD's. Are the Chinese "Silver Dragons" I'm hearing about really good 12AX7's or just to save a bucks? Are they basically the same as Shugang 9th Gen? It has a Tung-Sol Ri in V1, and EHX the rest of the way (all new tubes), but I want to slightly reduce the treble harshness and fuzzyness the EHX's contribute to at high volumes. I also want slightly tighter lows. I'm thinking maybe a Chinese tube in one of the gain stages, and maybe even a Sovtek LP or LPS in the PI could balance things out. I play anything from 80's hard rock/metal to modern metal like Alterbridge, Killswitch, Shadows fall, Disturbed, etc. Any thoughts on these tubes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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