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THE BASSMEN - fender bassman players


echodeluxe

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{censored}, so I ripped the old speakers out of the Bassman...and the Webers don't fit! The old CTS speakers drop right into the holes--the "lip" of the speakers lay flush against the wood--but the Webers are too wide at the base.

I'm thinking of taking a dremel and sanding around the inside of the speaker holes just a bit so they'll fit. Does anyone have a less destructive suggestion?

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{censored}, so I ripped the old speakers out of the Bassman...and the Webers don't fit! The old CTS speakers drop right into the holes--the "lip" of the speakers lay flush against the wood--but the Webers are too wide at the base.


I'm thinking of taking a dremel and sanding around the inside of the speaker holes just a bit so they'll fit. Does anyone have a less destructive suggestion?

 

 

yeah, try getting some wood and making a custom "frame" for the speakers. make the one side fit to the baffle perfect, and then mount the speaker to the other side. that way you wont have to change the baffle, and the speaker will fit perfect.

 

use like plywood or something like that.

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That's a cool idea! Do you mean like making some plywood rings for the new speakers?

 

 

thats exactly what i mean. that way, you wouldnt be hurting your baffle board, and when you want to swap different speakers in, just unscrew the rings!

 

post some pictures of the problem, id like to see what you are dealing with.

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Here's what I'm up against. I've laid this speaker into the hole so that one edge lays flush against the baffle, and I've focused on the side where the speaker juts out of the opening. When I balance the speaker in the opening, about a quarter of an inch hangs out all the way around.

DSC01424.jpg

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Alright guys, I'm home for the first time in a while and I finally got around to opening up my AB165 to try and see if there were any obvious problems and to see what if any maintenance had been done on it. I was sensing a recap was in order. I am dying to get this amp operational - when I rescued it from my high school it hadn't been touched in at least a year or two and not by anyone who knew anything about it. Last I heard when I got it it was "shocking" people - actually I was told by someone that it was "arcing". I didn't really believe that. Anyway I didn't want to get shocked and I knew the power tubes were questionable so I stashed her away for a while till I could get around to sorting it out.

 

So I looked around inside and damn, eyelet board construction is really flimsy looking compared to turret boards. I'm tempted to just gut the whole thing and build an AA864 "clone" in there on a turret board - but I won't actually do it. That would be such a headache...anyway upon inspection of the rectifier board I think I found the reason it was shocking people. Some clown had "serviced" the amp and replaced the main B+ rectifiers, normally a chain of three diodes per rail - with a single diode per rail. Okay, not necessarily a bad idea because now you can use diodes with high current ratings and low losses that weren't so easily had in '67. In this case though, they weren't even the same diodes and when he reattached wire taking B+ to the main filter caps from the diodes, enough wire was left bare that if it were bent or shaken around, which it was, it could have made contact with the chassis - which it did! :mad: :mad: :mad: There was a small burn mark on the chassis from where the wire had contacted it. According to the schematic this point should have 425 DC volts on it. I was once the recipient of a shock from this amp, when I was 14 and the amp was still in the school's main music room. That sucked.

 

The power cord has already been changed to a 3-conductor and is firmly attached inside so that's alright, but then the moron forgot to disconnect the ground lift switch. Completely useless and unsafe crap, now that a 3-conductor cord has been attached it should have been taken out of the circuit. I checked the capacitor 'doghouse' and the same genius also only changed out a single electrolytic, and with a value(47 uf) much higher than the schematic value(20 uF). This is probably fine, if anything there'll be less hum in the supply I guess...but why only change one cap? What a cheapskate the previous owner was. The last cap in the chain is 16 uF and not 20 as indicated in the schematic, but this cap is a stock paper covered mallory. Good ol manufacturing variations.

 

I'm going to replace all the 20 uF electrolytics with Solen film capacitors and the main 70uFs with . The price is about the same as electros and the size is also similar. I wonder some nice quality caps. I wonder how it'll sound.

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$100? That is an awesome deal. How's the sound?


Like the voice of God. :)

I plugged a 1x12 into it to to get an enhanced bass response (parallel jack, so I get the 4x10 and the 1x12), and now it's just incredible. I had a NAD thread about it a couple of days ago. I got incredibly lucky. My local GC refused to buy it from a guy who brought it in, because of the cosmetic damage. I asked him how much for the whole amp, and he said he wanted $100. I didn't even try to bargain. I just paid him on the spot, and walked out with my new amp, grinning like a bastard. :)

http://acapella.harmony-central.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1824970

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