Need to know some basics on intonating a guitar?

[ADTR]

Hello, im going into the studio tomorrow, and im trying to intonate my guitar for recording. i kind of know the basics. but i just cant get it 100% perfect. Is there any pointers that you can give?? I'm using an Epiphone SG. I've got ernie ball beefy slinkys 11-54. I'm going to be playing in Drop D flat. AKA, Db- Ab-Db-Gb-Bb-Eb. If that matters. Thanks alot!

[axegrinder]

After tuning the open string, you check fretted notes.

If the notes are running sharp it means the saddle is too close to the fret...move it back, retune, and repeat.

If the notes are running flat it means the saddle is too far from the fret...move it forward, retune, and repeat.

 

 

Keep in mind that you won't be able to make every fretted note be intoned (not that you'd try). This is why most people only intone the octave note (12th fret). Besides being in the middle, it is also the same nominal note on your tuner (especially helpful if you don't have a chromatic tuner).

[HELSTRUME]

Having a good tuner also helps. I need to replace mine, to get my intonition good.

[seven58]

Here is an analogy that has helped me keep straight which way to move the saddle. If it is sharp, you move the saddle away (out), the same way that you would move away from someone who has a sharp object, such as a knife.

 

Kind of silly, but whatever works.

[SuproSuper Man]

about tuner quality

 

even some of the cheaper tuners are better than most people will give them credit for ,,,,

 

sometimes a bouncy needle or erratic tuner reading is not necessarily a sign of a bad tuner but it could just means that the tuner is sensitive to the induced vibrations on the adjacent strings,,,

 

this is caused by induced resonance, the string you pluck causes sympathetic notes like subtle harmonics on the other strings to sound out as well as the note your trying to tune.

 

the problem is that the tuner hears the induced notes on the other strings as well as the note your trying to tune, so the tuner sorta gets confused as to which note you want it to tune, the plucked note or the induced ones that are all sounding out as well...

 

the trick to remedy this situation is to simply use your fingers to mute the strings your not trying to tune so the tuner only hears the one you want to tune and that should put an end to the tuner needle bouncing around erratically (or the elecronic LED display jumping around erratically)...

 

they say the better or more expensive tuners can automatically compensate for this but hec muting the other strings while your tuning one is no big deal to do, so its a good idea to get into the habit of tuning this way any how...IMO anyway..........try it and see if it works for you

 

BTW axegrinders method above is simple straightforward and will get you good results fast...

cheers and good luck with the studio session

[hecticone]

So you decide to screw with your guitar a day before going into the studio.

[SuproSuper Man]

So you decide to screw with your guitar a day before going into the studio.

 

hecticone has got a good point, especially if you aint never done any intonation before,,,,

 

like its not exactly rocket science but still i do find that beginners do take awhile at first to get the hang of how the whole intonation thing works ...

 

so yeah, maybe you should have tried doing this at least a week ago , doing intonation for the first time the last minute before a gig hecticone makes a good observation.....

 

sure hope it works out ok before the gig ...

[wagdog]

FWIW, I always adjust intonation holding the guitar like I do when I'm normally playing. For me, that's standing.

[fullmetalguitar]

What about adjusting the truss rod? How and when does that come into play?

[mrbrown49]

 

What about adjusting the truss rod? How and when does that come into play?

 

 

Usually while setting the action. It's done to dial in neck relief. Usually when doing full setup I start with the neck pretty straight. Then set the action about where i want. Then adjust the rod for the right relief. This will change the action slightly so I check it again and adjust if necessary. I go back and forth as many times as necessary to get both relief and action just right. Once all that's done, it's time to intonate.

[vetmxer]

Well with the above posts I'd say thread over.

[ST-III]

Nice tips. Here's another one. If you don't have a tuner use your ear. Late at night when it's real quiet.

[LaXu]

I say you need an accurate tuner. If you happen to own an audio interface of any kind to connect your guitar to your computer, get AP Tuner. It's very accurate and I've noticed that I get much better results intonating with it than using regular hardware tuners.

 

You have also fitted new strings right? Old strings will have wear on them and may not intonate properly if they're too old. You want new but properly stretched strings before intonating.

[HELSTRUME]

method above is simple straightforward and will get you good results fast... cheers and good luck with the studio session

Thanks, I'll try it.

[HELSTRUME]

What about adjusting the truss rod? How and when does that come into play?

If I get buzz when I drop the action, I adjust it. Let it sit over night, and check it again.

[Artslinger]

Going into a studio to record and don't know how to to intonate a guitar... intersting.

[Ancient Mariner]

The usual order for doing a setup is frets first, then relief, action and finally intonation. Check relief by fretting first and last frets and measuring action at the mid-point between (7th or 8th fret).

 

Also worth noting that you should really slack the string off before moving saddles back or up, since that tightens the string, stresses the threads on the screw/saddle and can damage the string.

 

Good tip about damping the strings not being tuned - this helps if you're tuning in a noisy environment with a decent tuner too.

 

Artslinger - playing ability and technical ability don't necessarily go hand in hand.

[humbuckerstrat]

I used to like high action on my guitars but since I learned how to intonate I've found that high action will mess up your intonation. When you fret at the 12th fret the note will be very sharp with high action, and sometimes too sharp to intonate properly with the range you have with the saddle. So I'ved been trying out a lower action to get my strings to intonate better.

[Artslinger]

 

The usual order for doing a setup is frets first, then relief, action and finally intonation. Check relief by fretting first and last frets and measuring action at the mid-point between (7th or 8th fret). Also worth noting that you should really slack the string off before moving saddles back or up, since that tightens the string, stresses the threads on the screw/saddle and can damage the string. Good tip about damping the strings not being tuned - this helps if you're tuning in a noisy environment with a decent tuner too. Artslinger - playing ability and technical ability don't necessarily go hand in hand.

 

 

Not sure how you can get to a certain level and not learn a basic need of intonating a guitar. I takes all of five minutes of reading to learn. If you own a Fender go to their website and download the user manual. I guess anything is possible it just seems kind of strange.

[darkcheef]

 

Here is an analogy that has helped me keep straight which way to move the saddle. If it is sharp, you move the saddle away (out), the same way that you would move away from someone who has a sharp object, such as a knife. Kind of silly, but whatever works.

 

 

That's a great one, I wish I heard that when I first started.

[Ancient Mariner]

 

Not sure how you can get to a certain level and not learn a basic need of intonating a guitar. I takes all of five minutes of reading to learn. If you own a Fender go to their website and download the user manual. I guess anything is possible it just seems kind of strange.

 

 

It's like so many 'technical' things. I don't know how so many people that want to take pictures can't understand about f-stops and apertures, but almost nobody wants to buy manual only cameras. Many people have a thing about certain forms of understanding, and the technical aspects of guitars is one of those 'magic' areas.

[cBc]

The usual order for doing a setup is frets first, then relief, action and finally intonation. Check relief by fretting first and last frets and measuring action at the mid-point between (7th or 8th fret). Also worth noting that you should really slack the string off before moving saddles back or up, since that tightens the string, stresses the threads on the screw/saddle and can damage the string. Good tip about damping the strings not being tuned - this helps if you're tuning in a noisy environment with a decent tuner too. Artslinger - playing ability and technical ability don't necessarily go hand in hand.

 

This on all points!

[mrbrown49]

 

If I get buzz when I drop the action, I adjust it. Let it sit over night, and check it again.

 

 

Good point. Allowing some time to settle in is very important with TR adjustments. One of my guitars settles in just a few minutes, and one takes a day to move, so allow some extra time until you get a feel for how your instrument reacts.

[Artslinger]

 

It's like so many 'technical' things. I don't know how so many people that want to take pictures can't understand about f-stops and apertures, but almost nobody wants to buy manual only cameras. Many people have a thing about certain forms of understanding, and the technical aspects of guitars is one of those 'magic' areas.

 

 

Is a guitar really in tune if the intonation is not set properly?

[Cap'n'Budda]

Axegrinder is right - start with the first string, tune it against your tuner, check some fretted notes in the 5th to 12th fret region against the tuner, adjust the saddle the direction he described, and then repeat the process starting with re-tuning. Eventually you'll find a nice compromise. When it's where you want it, move on to the next string.