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New Water Drop Effect Guitar Project


GuitarNoobie

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yeah your pics are great , you can see as you say the bigger drops show the effect much better..
:thu:

just in case you misunderstood , i didnt mean change the color scheme of the body just that since your gonna paint the headstock all black, why not continue the drop effect on the headstock too, and since its a black background on the head stock you could use the silver for the drops...or maybe thats too much drops..over kill as they say...lol...I tend to get carried away when i find something new and cool and want to do everything in sight with it...lol...
:lol:

anyway from the samples you made and showed us i think what ever colours you use its gonna end up being a terrific job...
:thu:

good luck man...and big thanks for enlightening us about this cool method..
:)

 

hey, just having fun friend, that's what this is all about for me... making something mine and sharing what i know with others... :thu:

 

and i really do like your idea about the silver drops on the headstock.... Nothing is gonna be too crazy on this guitar. i am now thinking i can sand everywhere on the headstock except over the logo. spray silver drops and then clear and put enough on to evertually get it all level again...

 

this is a challenge for sure, but i am seriously considering it... it's more of a challenge than attempting my first burst spray, that's for sure.

 

But it just might look perfect on this guitar... :wave:

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just like that if i do the burst... i have never sprayed a burst before, but i do own an airbrush rig, so i am thinking i could pull it off...


what the hell, let's say at this point i will try to do the black burst also...


so it's this:


1. Silver metallic base

2. Black water effect drops

3. Black burst on all edges

4. Silver metallic neck and back of headstock


and if i get really crazy...


5. Black burst sides on the back of the neck
:eek:

I should continue to push my skills to a new level, so a Silverbusrt with Black Water Drops it is !!!
:love:

This will be liquid sex when you finish.

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as far as stripping the old finish off of this guitar.

 

there are several methods i have tried in the past...

 

1. hand sanding - this totally sucks, but will really build up your forearm muscles :thu:

2. citrus stipper - polyurethane kicks the citrus stippers ass...

3. a stronger stripper - can't remember what it was now, but it worked a little better than the citrus stripper

4. heat gun - this {censored} works pretty well, quick removal, but you run the risk of burning the wood if you linger too long. i still found this method a little inconsistent, but better.

5. so far my favorite and i've only used it on one guitar is my new orbital sander. made quick work of what i needed for the evh frankenstrat build. just need to be careful with this unit cause it cuts through quickly...

 

no sanding tonight, but tomorrow i should have pics of the sanding progress... could even possibly get primer on tomorrow, we'll see...

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as far as stripping the old finish off of this guitar.


there are several methods i have tried in the past...


1. hand sanding - this totally sucks, but will really build up your forearm muscles
:thu:
2. citrus stipper - polyurethane kicks the citrus stippers ass... 3. a stronger stripper - can't remember what it was now, but it worked a little better than the citrus stripper

4. heat gun - this {censored} works pretty well, quick removal, but you run the risk of burning the wood if you linger too long. i still found this method a little inconsistent, but better.

5. so far my favorite and i've only used it on one guitar is my new orbital sander. made quick work of what i needed for the evh frankenstrat build. just need to be careful with this unit cause it cuts through quickly...


no sanding tonight, but tomorrow i should have pics of the sanding progress... could even possibly get primer on tomorrow, we'll see...

 

 

I use Kleen Strip spray on Stripper. Works fast.

Turns paint to sludge in a matter of minutes. Scrapes off easily.

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I use combination of hot air gun and paint striper...trick is not to dwell to long on one spot trying to take every little bit off with the hot air gun or as you said you will burn the wood trying to get off the stubborn bits...I just do a fast job with the hot gun to get most off and then finish with paint striper...

 

yeah i did the heat gun years ago, got carried away trying to get every little bit of paint off with the heat gun alone and did a bit of burning ...ah well live and learn ... :lol:

 

paint striper covered with aluminum foil so it dont dry out to fast is another little trick to make your stripper go further..;)

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paint striper covered with aluminum foil so it dont dry out to fast is another little trick to make your stripper go further..
;)

 

interesting, haven't tried that, might give a try sometime, but that little orbital sanding i bought is hard to argue with...

 

in all truthfulness i have only tried the sander on one guitar and this V will be the second. but as far as pure speed and lack of gooey stripper the sander wins in my book, at least right now. tomorrow we will see if I still believe that.... :thu:

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as far as the set neck goes. this is a technique i just tried before and it worked well, so i'm doing it again. cut each neck screw short so it doesn't go through the fretboard. counter sink the screw holes on the back of the body. glue, screw and clamp.

 

when it dries, use wood filler to cover the screw heads, sand, primer, paint and clear...

 

KentSGSh30.jpg

KentSGSh31.jpg

KentSGSh32.jpg

KentSGPa6.jpg

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when you make the counter sink holes pour a bit of super glue, or hot shot super glue into them to harden the wood and make it stronger ,,,that way it might help the screws form digging into the wood over time and loosening up...your not using the super glue to glue the neck on, but just using the super glue to harden the wood in the holes to better support and with stand the screw pressure since there will be no metal plate to disperse the pressure of the screws.

 

they actually make wood hardener products, but for just four screw holes crazy glue should be more than enough to stiffen and strengthen the wood inside the hole..

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when you make the counter sink holes pour a bit of super glue, or hot shot super glue into them to harden the wood and make it stronger ,,,that way it might help the screws form digging into the wood over time and loosening up...your not using the super glue to glue the neck on, but just using the super glue to harden the holes to better support and with stand the screw pressure since there will be no metal plate to disperse the pressure of the screws.


they actually make wood hardener products, but for just four screw holes crazy glue should be more than enough to stiffen and strengthen the wood inside the hole..

 

thanks for the tip...

 

have you done this or just learned about it ???

 

sounds logical... :idea:

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thanks for the tip...


have you done this or just learned about it ???


sounds logical...
:idea:

 

repaired a piece of furniture while back made of soft wood ,,,it kept loosening up cause the screw kept digging into the wood over time,,,so i pulled out the screw, poured some super glue into the hole, let it soak into the wood and harden then drove the srcrew back in...that did the trick the joint stayed firm and stiff ever since....

 

you have to use a very watery type of super glue so it can quickly be absorbed by the wood grain before it gets a chance to harden on the surface..you kinda want it to penetrate into the wood.,,,i get some stuff called "hot shot" from a wood working tool supply store called LEE VALLEY TOOLS...but i figure any watery (viscous) super or crazy glue should do the trick too...using flat washers in the hole might help too..

 

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,110&p=42966 Lee Valley tools (glue page)

 

:)

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repaired a piece of furniture while back made of soft wood ,,,it kept loosening up cause the screw kept digging into the wood over time,,,so i pulled out the screw, poured some super glue into the hole, let it soak into the wood and harden then drove the srcrew back in...that did the trick the joint stayed firm and stiff ever since....


you have to use a very watery type of super glue so it can quickly be absorbed by the wood grain before it gets a chance to harden on the surface..you kinda want it to penetrate into the wood.,,,i get some stuff called "hot shot" from a wood working tool supply store called LEE VALLEY TOOLS...but i figure any watery (viscous) super or crazy glue should do the trick too...using flat washers in the hole might help too..


http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,110&p=42966
Lee Valley tools (glue page)


:)

 

i will add this to my set neck, thanks for the information !!! :thu:

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also, this guitar came with 2 vols and 1 tone... i am seriously considering reversing this and making it a 1 vol/2 tone guitar.

 

at this point in my guitar playing life, 2 tones add more to the mix than 2 vols...

 

i just looked at the electronic cavity and i'm not sure there is room for a 500K pot in the position i wanna put the vol... i may have to modify the electronic cavity slightly or use a 250K for the vol (which i believe some Gibsons are wired this way). my dremel can easily make the mod and that's probably what i will do...

 

but anyway, if i go 1 vol/2 tones then thanks to guitarelectronics.com i can always find my wiring diagram, no matter what i decide on...

 

wdu_hh3t12_01

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a little lemon oil makes a fretboard look refreshed....

 

before:

dcam3424ek1.jpg

 

after and notice the black on the rag...

dcam3425tu5.jpg

 

 

frets need polishing, guess i will do that for the first time also !!!

 

here's a closeup of the frets...

fretdressingneededol2.jpg

 

i am seriously considering using some black dye i got from reranch and using it on this fretboard to give it a dark ebony color ;)

 

 

but here's the finished product after oiling... wish it always looked this good ;)

 

dcam3428bd0.jpg

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You can also get cyanoacrolate glue (super glue) at model airplane hobby shops. They sell several viscosities for various purposes. Just ask for the thinnest they have. I've used this hardening technique myself in home repairs and building RC aircraft.

 

:thu: dynamite brand "thin" tire glue!!!

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That drop effect is sweet, looking forward to seeing it done
:)

 

thanks Quarter, appreciate you dropping in. your work is always fantastic... :thu:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sanding to begin here shortly. i stayed up late drinking vodka last night. just woke up about 30 mins ago :eek: a little more time needs to be spent with my coffee before i attack the V with vigor :D

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