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New Water Drop Effect Guitar Project


GuitarNoobie

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damn, go away for a few months and Danny loses his mind


At least ya aint doin it Cowboy colors



btw, shame i didnt know you were looking for one....i got a VX in black that i'd have made you a nice price on



ya, i'm on a roll with 4 refinish/reshapes/upgrades this summer...

Cowboy colors :idea:;)

damn, you have a used black VX, your timing sucks Brian :mad::cry:

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wifey told me the same thing as it ran down her leg


I was just reading your purple samba kit thread before seeing this one....sexy stuff


would look better green/silver



:lol:

thanks on the samba kit. did a frankenstrat too, have you seen that one ?

http://acapella.harmony-central.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2058061&highlight=6.5+hours+of+taping

and a goldtop...

http://acapella.harmony-central.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2028979&highlight=goldtop+cavpilot+DrPool






Green/Silver for this guitar ???

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careful with the lemon oil , you may have to use TSP to clean the back of the neck before painting ...some lemon oils contain silicon and that can cause a fish eye effect/flaw with certain types of paints...

its good to use a rubing oil on a neck once and a while, alot of the old guitar makers used to use that stuff to protect the rosewood and ebony necks from moisture etc...stuff is watery like lemon oil, kinda looks like lemon oil too but unlike lemon oil rubbing oil will harden form a thin coat and seal your fret board from the elements and dirt.... you wipe it on wait 2 or 3 minutes for some of it to soak into the wood then wipe the excess off and let it dry and thats it ,,,i put some on my guitars once a year,,or once every two years depending on how much wear and play the neck has been getting..

stew mac sells this stuff
fretboard oil link

but i use this stuff tung and teak oil..
circa 1850 link

and a little info on fisheye
http://www.paintcenter.org/rj/jul04z.cfm

cheers..
:)

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careful with the lemon oil , you may have to use TSP to clean the back of the neck before painting ...some lemon oils contain silicon and that can cause a fish eye effect/flaw with certain types of paints...


its good to use a rubing oil on a neck once and a while, alot of the old guitar makers used to use that stuff to protect the rosewood and ebony necks from moisture etc...stuff is watery like lemon oil, kinda looks like lemon oil too but unlike lemon oil rubbing oil will harden form a thin coat and seal your fret board from the elements and dirt.... you wipe it on wait 2 or 3 minutes for some of it to soak into the wood then wipe the excess off and let it dry and thats it ,,,i put some on my guitars once a year,,or once every two years depending on how much wear and play the neck has been getting..


stew mac sells this stuff

fretboard oil link


but i use this stuff tung and teak oil..

circa 1850 link


and a little info on fisheye

http://www.paintcenter.org/rj/jul04z.cfm


cheers..

:)




thanks for that info and the links :thu:

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almost forgot...all this work and your not gonna bother putting in a push pull switch for coil tapping or out of phase tone while you got the thing all apart ...
:lol:

:lol:



Yeah...

GN-
Why not two concentric vol/tone pots, an on/on/on and a super 5-way?
On/on/on would be for reverse phase(neck pup), normal, series.
Or 3 push/pulls and forget either the series, split on one pup, or reverse phase...

Seriously, you're tearing the thing apart, make it a sound MACHINE.

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yea, that's another good one... that was the first one i ever saw.


i just thought the original clip i posted was right to the point and it was done with rattle cans
:thu:

it's not that hard to do. my first attempt was a bit weak as i had tons of small water drops...


dcam3018dr5.jpg

then i realized bigger drops would give a much better effect...


here it is wet...


dcam3021yw7.jpg

and then dry:


dcam3030ps5.jpg




i encourage all of you to head to the garage and try it...
:thu:



I think the dry board would look wetter if you could hand paint the little white catch light at 7 o'clock (like on the wet one). It would be a lot of work though painting one every drop.

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ok, so i busted out the orbital sander and started on the back...

dcam3436eh7.jpg


did not seem to be doing much with 60 grit, so i pulled out the gun...

dcam3437xw3.jpg



this also was not having the desired affect, it was only cracking the poly clear coat even when holding it in the same position for a full minute... :eek: no melting of the finish :mad:


so i went back the orbital sander and used a little muscle...

dcam3438ht7.jpg


took about 30 mins to do the whole back...

dcam3439gh1.jpg



the wood is not the best, but it's a far cry above some others I have re-finished. this should be easy to seal ;)

dcam3441ez6.jpg

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ok, so i busted out the orbital sander and started on the back...



did not seem to be doing much with 60 grit, so i pulled out the gun...


this also was not having the desired affect, it was only cracking the poly clear coat even when holding it in the same position for a full minute...
:eek:
no melting of the finish
:mad:


 

You're not supposed to concentrate the heat in one spot. If you do then it does what you are experiencing. You need to keep the heat gun moving over a good size area. You only want to soften the finish not cook it. It takes a little time to get started but once you get it going it should peel off easily. You need to start on an edge and get the scraper under the finish.

 

As for preserving the headstock logo you only need to scuff the clear coat rather than remove it and then just do your bubble thing and clear it.

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You're not supposed to concentrate the heat in one spot. If you do then it does what you are experiencing. You need to keep the heat gun moving over a good size area. You only want to soften the finish not cook it. It takes a little time to get started but once you get it going it should peel off easily. You need to start on an edge and get the scraper under the finish.


As for preserving the headstock logo you only need to scuff the clear coat rather than remove it and then just do your bubble thing and clear it.



oh well, didn't have the patience for the heat gun i guess... and thanks for the tip regarding the headstock, that will make it much more doable. :thu:

but the orbital sander did nicely... i sanded through the clear on the edges, but will leave it like that for some sealer. edges are gonna be black anyway...

here's a couple of pics after 60 grit with the sander, and 100 grit by hand. gonna go ahead and do 150 grit and 220 grit by hand before the sealer... :thu:

dcam3446vx5.jpg
dcam3447jy1.jpg

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A1+ thread:thu: Keep it comin'....



thanks man ...



i realized a little while ago that i have only sanded down to the sealer, except for a few place where i went to the wood...

i'm okay with this, since i should only have a few spots i really need to focus on.

and it's raining here as Ike passes thru, but i went ahead i shot a coat of sanding sealer... i know you guys would recommend i wait, but it'll be okay, just gonna take longer to dry...

notice i taped up the neck pocket as i don't want to mess with that. the neck was a real nice fit with just the right angle...

dcam3452lc7.jpg
dcam3448tj5.jpg
sealerhk6.jpg

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