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The Slide Guitar Junk Dremel Boxcaster Build Thread


Elias Graves

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Couple of other things I have to work out. I was originally thinking four string. I found a Gibson nut laying around and it fits perfectly. That leads me back to six strings, as does an SG Jr bridge. The bridge, however, has a wider spread but my neck is straight. I think that's going to lead to too much string spacing toward the high end of the neck. I wonder if a bridge/tailpiece for a four string banjo might work better?

 

Hey Roy. Gonna watch me destroy this thing, eh?

 

EG

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will you be fretting notes as well as using a slide?

 

 

I'm wavering a bit there. For simplicity's sake, I thought fretless and just leave the walnut neck as is. I can buy a slotted fretboard fairly cheap though. To do both, I'd need to be able to raise and lower the action quite a bit right? Any thoughts?

 

EG

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I recall Mind Riot saying, in one of his build thread, something to that effect:

 

 

Now I get why gibson angle their necks, the body of the guitar I'm building is so thick (2" or something) that I can't see the neck when playing it.

 

 

It was, in substance, more or less what he said. Before planning the body of his guitar some more.

 

I guess from looking at my les paul that with the carved top, the saddle are sitting pretty much on "the top of the hill", so having the angled neck, beside helping fret board visibility, probably helps keeping the action low.

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That's why I only wear chaps.


OK experts, couple of questions.

1. Why is the neck on a Gibson angled in relation to the body while a Fender is not? Does it make some difference? Do I want this one to run Gibson or Fender style?


2. Set up for slide, do I need the nut set up higher than normal or set it standard?


EG

 

 

Fender style is easier to build. It'll sound better and be easier to play if you set the nut higher. Sort of like a lap steel

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I'm wavering a bit there. For simplicity's sake, I thought fretless and just leave the walnut neck as is. I can buy a slotted fretboard fairly cheap though. To do both, I'd need to be able to raise and lower the action quite a bit right? Any thoughts?


EG

 

 

If your going to fret it you could set it up like a normal guitar and use one of those metal do-hickeys that raises the height of the nut. You need to consider the scale length before buying a pre-slotted fretboard.

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I'm wavering a bit there. For simplicity's sake, I thought fretless and just leave the walnut neck as is. I can buy a slotted fretboard fairly cheap though. To do both, I'd need to be able to raise and lower the action quite a bit right? Any thoughts?


EG

 

If you want to switch between 'slide' and 'normal' action, you could get one of these:

 

Slide_Guitar_Extension_Nut.jpg

 

http://www.stewmac.com/shopby/product/4596

 

Put it on for slide, take it off for normal playing.

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That's what I was thinking on the neck angle, though my SG is a flat top and it still has an angle to the neck. My current thinking is that I'll install the neck flat but a little proud of the top of the box. That will require a notch in the neck where it meets the body or the installation of a fretboard.

 

EG

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If you want to switch between 'slide' and 'normal' action, you could get one of these:


Slide_Guitar_Extension_Nut.jpg

http://www.stewmac.com/shopby/product/4596


Put it on for slide, take it off for normal playing.

 

I saw those. Again, that leads me back to six strings. I'm starting to think maybe a wooden archtop style bridge and slot it myself for four strings and use a banjo tailpiece. I'll need to check some measurements. With my neck through design, I'll have a secure place to mount a tailpiece. Then I'll have to also cut my own nut. I have some antler I could use.

 

EG

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New builder, I think EG was on about neck agnle, not angled head stock.


It's interesting that slide nut riser.


Doesn't it mess up the whole intonation every time installed or removed?

 

 

I think the angled headstock does the string tension job. I was curious about the neck angle.

 

Intonation isn't an issue with slide, correct?

 

I'm still just leaning toward fretless and just going lap steel style. This project is more about learning basic construction. I'll worry about frets and truss rods next go round. I intended this one to have as much of the crude, homemade junker vibe as possible.

 

EG

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Doesn't it?


How come? The steel strings that will be used will have different tension that will cause them to go sharp, and this at varying degree depending on each string's tension?

 

 

It's pressing a string behind a fret that primarily affects intonation - it isn't an issue with a guitar set up purely for slide. Take a look at some lap steels - they all have perfectly straight bridges.

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It's pressing a string behind a fret that primarily affects intonation - it isn't an issue with a guitar set up purely for slide. Take a look at some lap steels - they all have perfectly straight bridges.

 

There's a forum member, Quarter that builds these. Here's a pic of one of his builds that shows what 32-20 is saying.

 

d2-003-16.jpg

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Antler works surprisingly well for nuts and saddles. Should be great
:thu:
Banjo tailpiece is also a great idea. This thing should be awesome.

 

As long as I can find a tailpiece with the right spacing. I may end up buildig that too.

 

With an antler nut, I can cut it tall enough for slide. Should work. That stuff stinks when you cut it.

 

EG

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I've heard slide guitar being played, but I'll have to make a point of watching it - cos the intonation still would be an issue.

 

I thought you were building a normal guitar with square/rectangular body?

Are is it more of a lap thing that's played one string at a time?

 

I like this forum. I'm getting an education here!!!!!! :thu:

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