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Floyd Rose/Charvel question


Nazgul6

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This is an offshoot of another thread I made yesterday. I am trying to get my tremolo to be dive only. I have a new Charvel SoCal. I don't know too much about Floyds but it does pull up slightly now. There is no recessed cavity. There is just a little space between the bridge and the guitar. Is a device like a tremol-no necessary or can I just wedge some rubber in there or something? Or even do some kind of adjustment so that it just sits flat against the bridge?

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

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If it's not recessed, you could just tighten up the spring claw until the back of the bridge rests on the body.

 

If you don't want to go that route, take the rear cover off, and stick a hunk of wood between the front of the trem block and the routing (it'll be on the side the springs are on).

 

For non recessed Floyds, if it's only 1/8" or so off the top of the guitar, I'd just tighten up the claw so it rests on the body.

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I've actually been wanting to get a couple of those for the few recessed Floyded guitars I have. I've just never gotten around to it.

If you have a floating tremolo, it's a lot better than putting a stack of picks or whatever you use now to level the Floyd while you're tuning, I recommend them highly.

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You can block a Floyd completely by wedging something in there, but a dive-only block has to be a bit more precise. If the thing you wedge in slips during a dive, and the float isn't set properly, it'll come back completely messed up. The device suggested above is the route you want to take.

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You can block a Floyd completely by wedging something in there, but a dive-only block has to be a bit more precise. If the thing you wedge in slips during a dive, and the float isn't set properly, it'll come back completely messed up. The device suggested above is the route you want to take.

 

 

Yeah, I always have cut the wedge to the right thickness, then used a dab of glue to hold it in place when I do dive bombs.

 

I've also blocked a couple by just taking a wood screw and screwing it in far enough so the block hits the head of the screw. Works like the device above, but isn't as neat.

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If it's not recessed, you could just tighten up the spring claw until the back of the bridge rests on the body.


 

 

 

Is this a good way? I mean if its not recessed, will this work? Are there any drawbacks to this in terms of playability or anything?

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That may take the bridge 'out of level' which is something that you don't want to do. It will also take the intonation out.

 

Yes, it will cause the bridge to tilt back slightly, but if the bridge isn't more than about 1/8" off of the guitar's top, it shouldn't cause any problems, and intonation can still be set.

 

I've got my orange Warmoth setup that way, and never had any trouble setting the intonation or keeping it in tune.

 

Front3Small.jpg

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I went to home depot and bought a square steel block that I epoxied to the sustain block. Voila! Dive only tremolo that stays in tune perfectly.

 

You will LOVE!!! the sustain you get out of it. I find this technique far superior to the wood shim method.

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I did the same thing to my socal (ie tremstop and d-tuna)

 

I actually rarely use the d-tuna so i leave the trem floating (back out the trem stop screw a bit). Even if you dont use a d-tuna, these things make floyd setup/intonation adjustments much easier.

 

One trick I will mention is to wrap some teflon tape around the screw that contacts your block on the trem stop - it will keep it from vibrating and moving over time.

 

here's a pic of my socal. I will have to snap a pic of the rear sometime..

 

3669739479_a5b5e5190b_b.jpg

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I blocked a bunch of floyds with a small wedge of wood. Took about 10 minutes to sand it, some wood glue, and done! They've been holding fine for about 4 years now.

 

Some are blocked completely with 2 pieces, some with one so I can still dive. D-Tunas work perfect with them. Much better than the Trem-Setters I wasted money on.

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IS that hard to install? Do I have to drill or solder or anything?

I just set it up inside the trem cavity the way I want it, and drive the screws in with a Phillips screw driver and "elbow grease," I don't drill any holes.:evil: And no there is nothing to solder.

 

Drilling holes might be a better way to do it tho if you have a drill or a dremel and you're not impatient like me.:o

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Okay I took your guys advice and bought one of the above devices. I installed it, but what was happening was I would get the bridge parallel, bring the screw flush to the block and then that would bring the guitar slightly flat because the screw was pushing on the block, so I ould retine and then that would bring the block away from the screw again! Vicious cycle.

 

Anyway, I kind of fixed that but the other issue. When I bend strings, the block obviously gets pulled a bit away from the allen screw, and then when I releas the bend there is a fairly audible click of the block coming back to make contact with the screw. Did you guys have the same experience? I was think of putting a piece of tape on the block to reduce this. If anyone has any comments, tips or techniques for this device I would really appreciate it.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

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