Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 27, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by atrox i made a fret-bender pretty much the same way only I do not have a crank and no tape. You can just push the wire through it no crank is really necessary. mines coming along pretty nicely. should finish it up here in a little bit... Originally Posted by igge Nice colour on the cutting board. neon green Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 27, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Update time... well to start off, the pot holes are drilled as is the output jack hole. don't ask me how i did it (obviously needed to pay more attention) but the output jack is not centered. fell off a bit to one side. the jack cover will hide everything, but of all things to screw up and... the fret bender WORKS GREAT !!!!!!! I highly recommend $20 and a couple of hours of construction time instead of Stewmac of LMI... just sayin... oh and i didn't use the outdoor tape. i used the double sided carpet tape that i am using for my templates and some 100 grit sandpaper. used sandpaper at that, lol !!! finished fretwire in the next pic... and up against my caul/press Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 haha, nice. i need to make me one of thems. mine will be billet aluminium though, cause i feel like being fancy (and dont have anything else handy). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members atrox Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Came out great. Only thing I had to buy was the sliding door roller thingies. $5? I buy most of my wire from LMII which is already coiled, so this doesn't get much use, but it's handy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 28, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish haha, nice. i need to make me one of thems. mine will be billet aluminium though, cause i feel like being fancy (and dont have anything else handy). it's a great little tool... Originally Posted by atrox Came out great. Only thing I had to buy was the sliding door roller thingies. $5? I buy most of my wire from LMII which is already coiled, so this doesn't get much use, but it's handy yours looks good, what did you use for the middle roller? looks like a bearing... if so, how do you get traction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members atrox Posted December 28, 2009 Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie it's a great little tool... yours looks good, what did you use for the middle roller? looks like a bearing... if so, how do you get traction? It's just 2 washers with a smaller washer in-between to make the "groove". You don't need traction if you are not using a crank. I just push the wire through. Goes through easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 28, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 Originally Posted by atrox It's just 2 washers with a smaller washer in-between to make the "groove". You don't need traction if you are not using a crank. I just push the wire through. Goes through easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 28, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 as i am sitting here on the couch getting ready for some Cowboy football I suddenly realize I have created a problem. i go grab my fretboard and hold it up against my '73 Custom and find something disturbing... as i have mentioned previously my guitar is a little too thin and little under normal width, etc... cutting to close with the bandsaw and sanding too much caused those issues... well what that also created was a cut away that was a little too large, thus the neck area is a little more narrow than the plan calls for. don't ask me why and i don't have a clue what i was thinking at the time (except for lining up the edge of the neck with the cut away) but i cut my rosewood fretboard a little more narrow than the plan called for. i accounted for 1/16" worth of binding on each side bringing my total width to 2 1/16" width at the 22nd fret. 1 15/16" on the actual fretboard. however, my '73 measures 2 1/16" on the fretboard itself, 2 3/16" counting binding. so essentially i only left myself roughly 1/16" on either E string until the string falls off the fretboard. my Custom has at least 1/8" on each side. btw, i measuring my '73 since it seems to be slightly smaller in every aspect as compared to my '05 Standard or '04 Classic... the strings and edge of the fretboard spacing don't really get corrected totally until about the 7th or 8th fret. although there is more edge room all the way down the board, it's not until 7 or 8 that it matches my '73.... so with this realization what options do i have? as i see it they are minimal... 1. dig out the inlays and order another fretboard (only down $20 but got to practice my inlays) 2. build it as is and since i don't play much past about the 12th anyway and just live with it. 3. try to possibly find a stoptail and bridge that are a slightly more narrow. what do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members linusâ„¢ Posted December 28, 2009 Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie 1. dig out the inlays and order another fretboard (only down $20 but got to practice my inlays) you will be happier in the end.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 28, 2009 Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 so, does the outline of the guitar, and the position of the neck joint allows for a wider fretboard without pushing it off centre? if not, your answer is clear enough.if theres room, ill stop your for a second. i had the same issue on my sg. i got overzealous sanding the neck joint and made it too narrow. its 2-1/32" wide at the 21st fret. i got some other people to try it and we basically all agreed it was fine. it still fit the string spacing on a tunomatic, but i am making a custom bridge with slightly narrower spacing.my cv strat is 2-1/8" at the 21st fret. its fine and has even wider string spacing.so really, i think it will be fineother alternatives are to use thicker binding, or add a veneer pinstripe on each side. like maple/walnut/binding. 4 veneer layers will add 0.1" to the total width.i also made my fretboard too thin cause the board was warped, and i put 1 maple and 2 purpleheart veneers under it to make it thick again. looks cool too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 28, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 like i said with binding mine will be 2 1/16", 1 15/16" without and the string spacing seems to be right around 1 7/8" at the 22nd fret. so with beveled frets, either E string will probably fall off the board if you tried to fret it. however as i said i don't play down there and an LP is not easy to play past about the 16th, 17th or so... and if i go with a new board and keep it centered, the high E side of the board will over hang the body (into the cut away). my board is more narrow than either one you mention terence, but i am leaning towards just living with it... i could look into adding additional material to the edge of the board, but the frets are still gonna stop at the end of the rosewood.... oh well, if anyone else has thoughts or ideas speak up... glad i decided to build a practice guitar first so far i only have $185 in actual materials invested in this practice guitar. we don't wanna start adding in tools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 28, 2009 Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie like i said with binding mine will be 2 1/16", 1 15/16" without and the string spacing seems to be right around 1 7/8" at the 22nd fret. so with beveled frets, either E string will probably fall off the board if you tried to fret it. however as i said i don't play down there and an LP is not easy to play past about the 16th, 17th or so... and if i go with a new board and keep it centered, the high E side of the board will over hang the body (into the cut away). my board is more narrow than either one you mention terence, but i am leaning towards just living with it... i could look into adding additional material to the edge of the board, but the frets are still gonna stop at the end of the rosewood.... oh well, if anyone else has thoughts or ideas speak up... glad i decided to build a practice guitar first so far i only have $185 in actual materials invested in this practice guitar. we don't wanna start adding in tools my sg is 2-1/32 to the edge of the board, theres no binding. its narrower than yours is with binding. but overhang on the neck is going to dictate what you do here now, so i say just keep going. if you paint the back a solid colour, you can apply some filler if theres any overhang left. you can also probably nudge the neck over on a slight angle so the bridge stays put, but the neck moves over 1/16" or so. you just cut the neck tenon to match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 28, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish my sg is 2-1/32 to the edge of the board, theres no binding. its narrower than yours is with binding. but overhang on the neck is going to dictate what you do here now, so i say just keep going. if you paint the back a solid colour, you can apply some filler if theres any overhang left. you can also probably nudge the neck over on a slight angle so the bridge stays put, but the neck moves over 1/16" or so. you just cut the neck tenon to match. yours is 2-1/32" at the end of the frets, mine will only be 1-15/16" at the fret ends. the frets do not extend to the end of the binding, although would be a way to increase width. i was going with nibs so my frets will only be 1-15/16" total, that's 3/32" less than yours there will be no neck hangover if i leave it as is... plus i wanna do the back a natural or brownish stain... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 28, 2009 Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie yours is 2-1/32" at the end of the frets, mine will only be 1-15/16" at the fret ends. the frets do not extend to the end of the binding, although would be a way to increase width. i was going with nibs so my frets will only be 1-15/16" total, that's 3/32" less than yours there will be no neck hangover if i leave it as is... plus i wanna do the back a natural or brownish stain... ooooh, the nibs. yes, that makes a small difference. but the bevel on normal frets is nearly 1/16" as it is, so i dont know if it will be a meaningfull difference. the usable fret wire on my strat is 2" dead. so your still only 1/16" shy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 28, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish ooooh, the nibs. yes, that makes a small difference. but the bevel on normal frets is nearly 1/16" as it is, so i dont know if it will be a meaningfull difference. the usable fret wire on my strat is 2" dead. so your still only 1/16" shy. maybe i should order some hide glue, keep on going, glue the neck with the hide glue and hope for the best. if it doesn't work out, then with heat i could release the neck and replace it... i really don't think it's gonna be a huge deal, cuz SLASH i am NOT. i don't play down there and i got three real Les Pauls if I ever get that good, which I do not expect. Seriously, the furthest I currently go on the fret board is about 15th and an occasional pick on the 17th... the string spacing at that point is 1-3/4". my board at the 15th is 1-15/16", so the gives me 3/32" on each side of the string, not counting the nib. i think that will work for me, but i don't wanna make that mistake again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 28, 2009 Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 so ive more or less finalized the LP cap.plain eastern hard maple book matched with pickup routes and neck pocket for use in one of the kits: $84 retail.1 piece khaya back, non chambered with control cavities and neck pocket and pickup routing: $104. (thats less than some people are charging for the raw wood blanks)this is going on the assumption i will make 50 of the kits over a few months or less. so thats under $200 for the unassembled body. just needs the neck. this may well hit sub $300 teritory for the whole base kit, and thats with a reasonably fair profit on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members igge Posted December 28, 2009 Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 If I win the lottery I'll place some orders. VAT and import fees makes it a no go at the moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 28, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish so ive more or less finalized the LP cap. plain eastern hard maple book matched with pickup routes and neck pocket for use in one of the kits: $84 retail. 1 piece khaya back, non chambered with control cavities and neck pocket and pickup routing: $104. (thats less than some people are charging for the raw wood blanks) this is going on the assumption i will make 50 of the kits over a few months or less. so thats under $200 for the unassembled body. just needs the neck. this may well hit sub $300 teritory for the whole base kit, and thats with a reasonably fair profit on top. wow, very cool... you're even doing the routes... something tells me you are going to become a player in this business... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 28, 2009 Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie wow, very cool... you're even doing the routes... something tells me you are going to become a player in this business... my problem is i dont know what a player is! i have no bloody clue how many kits sell at various price points - mostly cause there are very few on the market. bulldog, and the cheapies jay and a few others on ebay sell. then the specialyy high end bits like you bought. i can guess the market for bolt ons well enough, but set neck is a mystery. 50 lps in 2 months. is that alot or not enough? WHAAAAAAAAA! haha. my ideal volume is 100 kits of all types per month. thats when are cheapest before i need to expand and get more space for storage and wood processing etc. i can do 100 at a time, and store them til they sell, then make the next batch. theres actually a luthier in our building with a paint booth, i want to talk with him about possibly being the assembly service for those who want fretwork or completely finished guitars. anyhow. we'll see how it all goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 28, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish my problem is i dont know what a player is! i have no bloody clue how many kits sell at various price points - mostly cause there are very few on the market. bulldog, and the cheapies jay and a few others on ebay sell. then the specialyy high end bits like you bought. i can guess the market for bolt ons well enough, but set neck is a mystery. 50 lps in 2 months. is that alot or not enough? WHAAAAAAAAA! haha. my ideal volume is 100 kits of all types per month. thats when are cheapest before i need to expand and get more space for storage and wood processing etc. i can do 100 at a time, and store them til they sell, then make the next batch. theres actually a luthier in our building with a paint booth, i want to talk with him about possibly being the assembly service for those who want fretwork or completely finished guitars. anyhow. we'll see how it all goes. there are also grizzly kits which are little more high end than most... but i have no idea about volume or pricing myself... still wish you the best of luck in your business venture btw, my bartlett order is at the house. at lunch i went and picked it and took it home... pics tonight and damn was that thing packed well. it was in it's own wooden case... the plans are definitely 1 to 1 on scale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 28, 2009 Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie btw, my bartlett order is at the house. at lunch i went and picked it and took it home... pics tonight and damn was that thing packed well. it was in it's own wooden case... the plans are definitely 1 to 1 on scale PICS PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! so those guys it seems are near me in canada. was ordering from them easy? any customs issues? who did they ship with? etc etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 28, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 shipped with the post office, no problems. it was actually to me by the 23rd of December (ordered on the 15th)... Tom was very friendly, helpful and extremely timely in emails. even replied once at 8:30 PM...only thing i didn't like was i had to paypal individually for each item, although he is refunding me some of the shipping because of that...i recommend them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 28, 2009 Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie shipped with the post office, no problems. it was actually to me by the 23rd of December (ordered on the 15th)... Tom was very friendly, helpful and extremely timely in emails. even replied once at 8:30 PM... only thing i didn't like was i had to paypal individually for each item, although he is refunding me some of the shipping because of that... i recommend them... cool, good to know. i think if youd have ordered the body with the back or the neck they might have not been able to do it. thats one thing i realized a few days ago, you cant ship honduran mahogany across border without paperwork. i have to look into the conditions, but i think a raw body would get stopped (vs a complete guitar). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 28, 2009 Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 rosewood fretboard cost much. $24 to be exact. this is a little more than stew mac. mine will of course be trimmed to shape to fit the premade neck, but still "too much" methinks. one redeeming feature though is i can do any scale, any number of frets and any radius so i guess its not all bad. bah. anyhow, i keep sidetracking your thread so ill stop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 28, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 28, 2009 no problem, like i said, we can discuss whatever in here... no problems at all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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