Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 27, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by nevermind this is the way I would do it - Blue tape on board scribe perimeter of inlay into the tape peel off the scribed area, leaving only the blue you don't want to touch stay inside the inlay and do the clean up work with a sharp hobby knife and some picks or small chisels that's basically what i did... job is finished... not perfect, but decent... tomorrow i will radius sand off the testers glue and rosewood sawdust goop... also bringing the inlays flush with the fretboard... cut down to 22 frets... dreaming again doing the inlays has been the toughest part of the build so far IMO... getting the binding channel sized correctly on the inside of the horn was the second toughest part... tomorrow i will also drill my potentiometer holes and output jack hole... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 inlays are always the most difficult/nerve racking part of any build for me too, even if it is just dots and side markers. It never fails I have one side marker that the drill bit drifts just a little on and looks like crap. I inlaid stars on my latest neck and it took forever, and it took a fair amount of filler to straighten out my work too. You're doin great and it looks really good. It only gets easier as you start to trust yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members slashfacepalm Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Hahahaha, nice work.I lol'd @ your sig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 27, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by nevermind inlays are always the most difficult/nerve racking part of any build for me too, even if it is just dots and side markers. It never fails I have one side marker that the drill bit drifts just a little on and looks like crap. I inlaid stars on my latest neck and it took forever, and it took a fair amount of filler to straighten out my work too. You're doin great and it looks really good. It only gets easier as you start to trust yourself. thanks Brian that makes me feel good i fear the side dots hey, got any pics of your STAR inlays? i bet they look cool Originally Posted by ihavenofish looking good. thanks dude... i appreciate it... not too bad for my first try. btw, rosewood is a lot harder wood than i thought it was... i guess ebony is gonna be about the same, huh? Originally Posted by slashfacepalm Hahahaha, nice work. I lol'd @ your sig. thanks slash... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie thanks dude... i appreciate it... not too bad for my first try. btw, rosewood is a lot harder wood than i thought it was... i guess ebony is gonna be about the same, huh? indian rosewood and ebony are similar in hardness. alot of people have some notion rosewood is softer than maple. its not. its almost 3 times harder. also smells horrid if you burn it. yuk! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 27, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish indian rosewood and ebony are similar in hardness. alot of people have some notion rosewood is softer than maple. its not. its almost 3 times harder. also smells horrid if you burn it. yuk! i was one of those people thinking rosewood was kinda soft... i now see it's not... thanks for the warning, i won't be burning any Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rakester Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Good work GN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 27, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by rakester Good work GN thanks man... i'm having some fun doing this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 here ya go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 27, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by nevermind here ya go very cool nice work... can't really see any of the filler either btw, what do you guys use to bend your fretwire to the correct radius??? i am thinking about building one like this one that fletch built over at MLP... here's his build thread. he has all kinds of jigs and home built tools... http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/luth...l-buildup.html i just can't see spending $90 at stew mac... any ideas ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 i used to bend mine by hand over a piece of wood I radiused and cut a notch in. It worked, but was a pain. Now I just buy it pre-bent from LMI. EDIT: the reason you can't see much filler is because I didn't use macro Plus I dyed the fretboard after the inlays were in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 27, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by nevermind i used to bend mine by hand over a piece of wood I radiused and cut a notch in. It worked, but was a pain. Now I just buy it pre-bent from LMI. i didn't know LMI had it pre-bent oh well, live and learn. i may try to do something like you did with a piece of wood... you don't still have it and could take a picture, do you ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members A-20 Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 27, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by A-20 Amazing. thanks A-20... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie i didn't know LMI had it pre-bent their prebent stuff is in 100 foot rols (20 gutiars worth). the bright side is that even though its alot of wire, its much cheaper than buying stew mac one guitar at a time. i got mine from a local shop prebent. they sold me 3 pieces of stew mac wire for $27!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie i didn't know LMI had it pre-bent oh well, live and learn. i may try to do something like you did with a piece of wood... you don't still have it and could take a picture, do you ??? No I don't think I do. All I did was take a scrap piece of poplar and bandsaw a 9" radius, basically made half a circle. Then with 2 cutter wheels stacked on my dremel cut a groove in the edge wide enough for the tang to sit in without holding the wire in. Then you have to figure out how to clamp the wire in and bend, and clamp, and bend, and clamp Here's a link to building your own fret bender on the cheap from parts you can find at Lowe's: http://www.terrydownsmusic.com/techn...ret_bender.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish their prebent stuff is in 100 foot rols (20 gutiars worth). the bright side is that even though its alot of wire, its much cheaper than buying stew mac one guitar at a time. i got mine from a local shop prebent. they sold me 3 pieces of stew mac wire for $27!!! Naw, LMI sells all its wire pre-bent Fretwire is sold in 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by nevermind Naw, LMI sells all its wire pre-bent Fretwire is sold in 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish you sure. i though it said the 4' sections were straight for shipping. I'm sure. I've bought it from them 4' at a time for a few years and its all been curved. BTW Danny, before you start pressing frets be sure to remember to chamfer the fret slots. There's nothing worse than pressing in a fret and realizing you forgot when the fret will not sit flush. Sucks even worse if you put a couple drops of super glue in the slot before the fret goes in (yeah I've done it more than once) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 27, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by nevermind No I don't think I do. All I did was take a scrap piece of poplar and bandsaw a 9" radius, basically made half a circle. Then with 2 cutter wheels stacked on my dremel cut a groove in the edge wide enough for the tang to sit in without holding the wire in. Then you have to figure out how to clamp the wire in and bend, and clamp, and bend, and clamp Here's a link to building your own fret bender on the cheap from parts you can find at Lowe's: http://www.terrydownsmusic.com/techn...ret_bender.htm your home made version sounds pretty slick, but the bend and clamp, bend an clamp don't sound so cool... but thanks for the link to the plans... looks like i am headed back to lowes/home depot tomorrow Originally Posted by nevermind Naw, LMI sells all its wire pre-bent Fretwire is sold in 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 27, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by nevermind BTW Danny, before you start pressing frets be sure to remember to chamfer the fret slots. There's nothing worse than pressing in a fret and realizing you forgot when the fret will not sit flush. Sucks even worse if you put a couple drops of super glue in the slot before the fret goes in (yeah I've done it more than once) chamfer? does that mean, slightly beveling the edges of the fret slot? and is glue required for frets? what about if you wanna re-fret someday, will the super glue give up it's hold ??? and while we are talking frets... is the method is to tap them in with the fret hammer (hitting the fretwire in the center, correct?) and then press them in with the caul??? thanks for the hints. tips and answers guys... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 chamfering the fretslot means beveling the edges. helps the frets go in, makes sure they seat well, and causes less tear out in the wood if you have to remove one.glue is not nceessary, but you might find (especially if you hand slotted a board) that some frets dont want to stay down, so glue helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie and while we are talking frets... is the method is to tap them in with the fret hammer (hitting the fretwire in the center, correct?) and then press them in with the caul??? thats one way. i hammer mine across cause i gots no caul/press. i tried using my little drill press and a wood caul and ... well i still use a hammer so that tells you how successful that was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 Yeah, chamfer =bevel I glue them all in with 3 drops of thin CA. One about 1/8" from each end and one in the center. It probably really isn't necessary, but it pretty much eliminates the possibility of a fret popping up later on. If they need removed a hot soldering iron will help, and I don't think (my opinion) the tear out is worse with CA than without if you heat the fret enough. I install frets by starting the tang with finger pressure( I use the first knuckle on each thumb and sort of lobster claw it), making sure the tang is going into the slot vertically. This is important because a fret that starts into the slot leaning even just a little will usually chip the hell out of the board around the slot, plus it probably won't seat fully. My lobster claw method gets the tang barbs to start "biting in " then I use the caul/press to seat them fully. It will take a good amount of pressure to press them in, but if it doesn't feel right stop and check the tang is going into the slot and not cutting into the wood. I've hammered them in before I got the caul from Stewmac and it works just as well. Actually, it's quicker by far, but I spent good money on the caul and inserts so I gotta use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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