Members nevermind Posted December 30, 2009 Members Share Posted December 30, 2009 Originally Posted by atrox I got my 14" bandsaw for $280 from Harbor Freight. All you need is a good blade and it's awesome. I have even resawed with it. Meandi uses the same one as well. ive got the 14" one as well. Mine works great, except for the time I put a new blade on and got it flipped so the teeth were running the wrong direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 30, 2009 Members Share Posted December 30, 2009 as i mentioned earlier, even the little saw can be made to work fine. just needs a good setup and a quality blade. dont knock the budget tools man!!!! big saws are great, but only if you have room for them. theres a shop in the same building as the one im putting my mill in that has a laguna saw with a 16" resaw. yum. gonna have to borrow it one day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 30, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 30, 2009 i'm all about the budget tools and yet between power tools and guitar tools i still have about $1700 invested... here's where the magic happens. i would have cleaned up before taking the pics but you guys were talking tools so here you go. ignore the layers of sawdust on everything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rakester Posted December 30, 2009 Members Share Posted December 30, 2009 ^^ Sweet workshop! Really coming along nicely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 30, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 30, 2009 Originally Posted by rakester ^^ Sweet workshop! Really coming along nicely very messy workshop and the moment. i have only been working out there in the cold, not cleaning up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 30, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 30, 2009 here is the finalized neck shape. the sander comes through again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rakester Posted December 30, 2009 Members Share Posted December 30, 2009 Awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 30, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 30, 2009 Originally Posted by rakester Awesome! thanks... hey guys, most other build threads i have read and am following to help me along show wings getting glued on the headstock. correct me if i am wrong, but at just over 3 inches wide, why would i need to add any???? i am confused because it looks like some other builders add them although they appear to be using 3 x 4 x 30 quartersawn mahogany like i did... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 30, 2009 Members Share Posted December 30, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie thanks... hey guys, most other build threads i have read and am following to help me along show wings getting glued on the headstock. correct me if i am wrong, but at just over 3 inches wide, why would i need to add any???? i am confused because it looks like some other builders add them although they appear to be using 3 x 4 x 30 quartersawn mahogany like i did... a gibson neck blank is 2.25" wide, so they need wings. you dont, obviously since the template fits just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 30, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 30, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish a gibson neck blank is 2.25" wide, so they need wings. you dont, obviously since the template fits just fine. hmm, ok... makes sense... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 30, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 30, 2009 i am looking to route for the truss rod next while everything is still square. all my video tutorials are used up and the dude has not made the rest of them, so.... looks like according the plans i need to route a 3/16" slot 9/16 inches deep, for about 18 1/2 inches, correct? i have already located where the 3/8" hole for the anchor nut (which is 13/16" deep, correct?) will be located, so the route will go from there until it leaves the wood on the angled headstock... am i reading the plans correctly and thinking clearly btw, i ordered this truss rod from Stewmac but it's not here yet. do those measurements match the stewmac truss rod? http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Truss_ro...etails#details i don't wanna drill or route until i know the stewmac truss rod matches my plans... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted December 31, 2009 Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 yep you're on the right track. Drill your anchor hole first, set up your router table to the right height and dead center on your board and go to town.Lookin' good, keep up the good workA small tip, when you install your rod weld the anchor to the rod after you peen it. I've seen it mentioned a few times on other LP builds as you probably have as well, but it was worth saying again. Nothing sucks worse than having to pull a perfectly good fretboard because the truss rod is turning in the anchor rather than the nut turning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 31, 2009 Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie i am looking to route for the truss rod next while everything is still square. all my video tutorials are used up and the dude has not made the rest of them, so.... looks like according the plans i need to route a 3/16" slot 9/16 inches deep, for about 18 1/2 inches, correct? i have already located where the 3/8" hole for the anchor nut (which is 13/16" deep, correct?) will be located, so the route will go from there until it leaves the wood on the angled headstock... am i reading the plans correctly and thinking clearly btw, i ordered this truss rod from Stewmac but it's not here yet. do those measurements match the stewmac truss rod? http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Truss_ro...etails#details i don't wanna drill or route until i know the stewmac truss rod matches my plans... are you sure its 9/16". thats awefully deep. and on top of that, i thought it was supposed to be curved. might want to tripple check before you cut anything. all my dual action truss channels have been 3/8" deep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted December 31, 2009 Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 Danny, remember the post by Fletch in his 6 LP build thread. He jigged it up to cut the slot on a slight anglehttp://www.mylespaul.com/forums/1099596-post180.htmlEdit: BTW, according to the StewMac plans the bottom of the channel should be 7/16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 31, 2009 Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 ive been rumaging through my little wood pile for prototype woods.i have some 11.25" wide hard maple thats planed .91" thick. i can trace 2 halves of a top into it nicely. seems a bit of a waste on thickness. maybe i can slice off the tops for a drop top. got enough of this maple for a few very nice single cut tops with symetrical grain.i have a 3"x3" quartered hard maple block for 2 necks. also got plenty of purpleheart for fretboards and extra maple for the inlays.have a 1 piece honduran mahogany back thats 1-9/16" thick. just need something for the other model, which i think should be a thin double cut. could do all maple, use the thick top wood to make up for the thin back and then put a purpleheart pinstripe in between.hows that sound for the first 2 prototypes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 31, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 Originally Posted by nevermind yep you're on the right track. Drill your anchor hole first, set up your router table to the right height and dead center on your board and go to town. Lookin' good, keep up the good work A small tip, when you install your rod weld the anchor to the rod after you peen it. I've seen it mentioned a few times on other LP builds as you probably have as well, but it was worth saying again. Nothing sucks worse than having to pull a perfectly good fretboard because the truss rod is turning in the anchor rather than the nut turning. that's the path i was going to take. drill the anchor hole and use it to start my route. i did not not realize i had to weld the anchor. by the looks of this picture the anchor has threads. so what exactly is the procedure, as when you say peen, it seems like i install it on the rod with a hammer Originally Posted by ihavenofish are you sure its 9/16". thats awefully deep. and on top of that, i thought it was supposed to be curved. might want to tripple check before you cut anything. all my dual action truss channels have been 3/8" deep. i went back and looked at the plans and by the anchor it is 9/16" deep... however.... (see next post) Originally Posted by nevermind Danny, remember the post by Fletch in his 6 LP build thread. He jigged it up to cut the slot on a slight angle http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/1099596-post180.html Edit: BTW, according to the StewMac plans the bottom of the channel should be 7/16 i went back and reviewd fletch's post, thanks for the reminder. he did do an angle and when i took more measurements from the plans the depth by the adjusting nut is only 1/2", so the bartlett plan does have the channel on an angle... so then after reading your post i pulled out my Stewmac plans and my measurements are 1/2" deep through the entire length of the channel. are you sure you measured correctly? btw, i went to home depot, lowes and a wood working store about 25 mins away looking for a 3/16" D x 9/16" L router bit. home depot and lowes don't even have 3/16" D bits and wood working store was out of stock on their 3/16" x 5/8" bit the wood working store did have a 3/16" x 1/2" bit, so now i am trying to think this over. the plans are different, so what would the reason be for the angled truss rod channel? how long is the anchor? both plan shows it at 5/8", but the hole is drilled 13/16" deep... if the plans are accurate then either routing depth (1/2 or 9/16) would be sufficient for the anchor... so what's you guys experience and reasoning here???? glad i didn't have the right bit or i would have already routed 9/16" all the way down the neck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 31, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish ive been rumaging through my little wood pile for prototype woods. i have some 11.25" wide hard maple thats planed .91" thick. i can trace 2 halves of a top into it nicely. seems a bit of a waste on thickness. maybe i can slice off the tops for a drop top. got enough of this maple for a few very nice single cut tops with symetrical grain. i have a 3"x3" quartered hard maple block for 2 necks. also got plenty of purpleheart for fretboards and extra maple for the inlays. have a 1 piece honduran mahogany back thats 1-9/16" thick. just need something for the other model, which i think should be a thin double cut. could do all maple, use the thick top wood to make up for the thin back and then put a purpleheart pinstripe in between. hows that sound for the first 2 prototypes? do it get the business rolling, i know you want too.... you are gonna do inlays in maple? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 31, 2009 Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 the truss rod channel has to be curved or it wont work right.heres someones jig:http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/luth...annel-jig.htmlstraight channels only work with dual action rods. the stew mac plan probably expects you to use one of their hotrod truss rods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 31, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish the truss rod channel has to be curved or it wont work right. heres someones jig: http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/luth...annel-jig.html straight channels only work with dual action rods. the stew mac plan probably expects you to use one of their hotrod truss rods. curved or angled??? the plan shows no curves... and that jig is unique. another way of doing it with a different kind of router bit... thanks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 31, 2009 Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie curved or angled??? the plan shows no curves... and that jig is unique. another way of doing it with a different kind of router bit... thanks... curved. angled wont do anything, thats just the same as straight unless they are leaving a big gap on the tenon side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 31, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish curved. angled wont do anything, thats just the same as straight unless they are leaving a big gap on the tenon side. that does not looked curved... it looks angled... and here is the plan. definitely not curved... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 31, 2009 Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 "on every '50s LP neck that I have disassembled ,the truss rodchannel was straight and not curved.On the earlier Gold Tops it lies 1/2'' below and parallel to the underside face of the finger board.Later in the decade it was altered to 1/2'' deep at the nut and approx 5/8'' deep at the''tenon'' end. This caused the rod to run ''nearly'' parallel with the rear of the neck. The earliest ''curved'' rod channel I've seen came in 1960 with the advent of the ''slim neck''.Curved truss rods increase the sensitivity of the action but ,if 1950s LPs are a ''yard stick'' ,then they are unnecessary and require more work in production as the ''geometry'' of the curve/ rod /filletis vital to its correct function. Gibson used a 3/16''wide side and face cutter to generate the slot, this is obvious from the radial machine marks in the side of the channel.However if you decide to use a curved channel then a simplejig will be required.I promise you though, that the straight channel rod works absolutely perfectly, provided it is below the centre line of the complete neck cross-section."http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/luth...nel-curve.htmlwell, ya learn something new every day...i guess originals were 1/2" straight, 59 would be angled, after 60 were curved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted December 31, 2009 Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 Truss rods in early LPs are not curved. That is way the plans for a '59 show the rod running straight, or at a slight angle (depending on the plan). The curved rod chanel was an attempt to have some control over a neck if it started to back bow, apparently it dodn't seem that important to Gibson in the 50's. Danny, if you measure the neck detail on the StewMac plans it is in fact 1/2". However, if you measure the section cutaways of the neck profile AA and BB the rod channel is 7/16". Must be one of the errors in the plans the MLP guys discuss.BTW, the rod can run at an angle, but I wouldn't run the channel any deeper than 1/2" at the nut(personally I'd stop at 7/16). Any deeper and you are just begging for a split when you tighten the rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 31, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish "on every '50s LP neck that I have disassembled ,the truss rod channel was straight and not curved.On the earlier Gold Tops it lies 1/2'' below and parallel to the underside face of the finger board.Later in the decade it was altered to 1/2'' deep at the nut and approx 5/8'' deep at the ''tenon'' end. This caused the rod to run ''nearly'' parallel with the rear of the neck. The earliest ''curved'' rod channel I've seen came in 1960 with the advent of the ''slim neck''.Curved truss rods increase the sensitivity of the action but ,if 1950s LPs are a ''yard stick'' ,then they are unnecessary and require more work in production as the ''geometry'' of the curve/ rod /fillet is vital to its correct function. Gibson used a 3/16''wide side and face cutter to generate the slot, this is obvious from the radial machine marks in the side of the channel.However if you decide to use a curved channel then a simple jig will be required.I promise you though, that the straight channel rod works absolutely perfectly, provided it is below the centre line of the complete neck cross-section." http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/luth...nel-curve.html well, ya learn something new every day... i guess originals were 1/2" straight, 59 would be angled, after 60 were curved. well then i have decisions to make. 1. first off, i am not going curved... to difficult for my first truss rod... 2. if i go angled 5/8 (i went back and the plan is 5/8 and not 9/16 at the anchor) to 1/2 then i will have to find a router bit. there is one more store down in Dallas I can check tomorrow. if they don't have it, i wait for just over a week for the wood working store to restock or i order online. 3. 1/2" straight and i could use my table saw. of course getting a perfect 3/16" width on the table saw will be a little tricky... or tomorrow i can go get the 3/16 x 1/2 router bit i saw tonight. decisions, decisions.... i would prefer option 2 or 3 (with a router bit)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 31, 2009 Members Share Posted December 31, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie well then i have decisions to make. 1. first off, i am not going curved... to difficult for my first truss rod... 2. if i go angled 5/8 (i went back and the plan is 5/8 and not 9/16 at the anchor) to 1/2 then i will have to find a router bit. there is one more store down in Dallas I can check tomorrow. if they don't have it, i wait for just over a week for the wood working store to restock or i order online. 3. 1/2" straight and i could use my table saw. of course getting a perfect 3/16" width on the table saw will be a little tricky... or tomorrow i can go get the 3/16 x 1/2 router bit i saw tonight. decisions, decisions.... i would prefer option 2 or 3 (with a router bit)... you could tape on a wedge to angle the neck for the table saw. then put a long piece of mdf on the table either side of the blade for a guide and another "factory edge" piece to used as your guide. does that make sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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