Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 26, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 Originally Posted by nevermind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted December 26, 2009 Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 if it cures without totally cracking apart I think at least one of them will make an unbelievable top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 26, 2009 Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 Originally Posted by nevermind if it cures without totally cracking apart I think at least one of them will make an unbelievable top using the end grain for the top? that will be interesting. would look neat if you centered it at the top of the arch in a carved top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 26, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish using the end grain for the top? that will be interesting. would look neat if you centered it at the top of the arch in a carved top. agreed.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 26, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 well i planned on finishing sanding my body and drilling vol/tone holes as well as the jack hole, but christmas and my family must have worn me out... i came home this evening, had a little something eat, turned on football and fell asleep on the couch... so tomorrow i will get back to building Inlay work coming soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 26, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 what are the white pens/pencils that people use to mark on fretboards and then later sand off???is that a wax pen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members igge Posted December 26, 2009 Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 Aren't they just ordinary white graphite pens? That would be the smartest option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted December 26, 2009 Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish using the end grain for the top? that will be interesting. would look neat if you centered it at the top of the arch in a carved top. thats the plan, have the heartwood right between the pickups actually i did it to bring that section of log down to 24" length so I can more easily slab it.....but then the ole screws got to turning and i thought it might be interesting to try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 26, 2009 Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie what are the white pens/pencils that people use to mark on fretboards and then later sand off??? is that a wax pen? grease pen? chalk? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 26, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 Originally Posted by igge Aren't they just ordinary white graphite pens? That would be the smartest option. i didn't know there was such a thing... is there? hmm, maybe there is... i just found some white charcol pencils at an online arts/craft store... i need some new exacto blades so i am off to the hobby store. plus the video tutuorial told me use testers model glue for the inlays. what do you all use? Originally Posted by nevermind thats the plan, have the heartwood right between the pickups that would be cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 26, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 still finishing up the binding sanding and adding to it around the neck mortise, almost there... in the meantime, we have a little fretboard work happening... took about 3/64" off the bottom of the board and created some sawdust for helping fill in the seams around the inlays... cut down to size inlays laid out in place inlays numbered so i don't lose track of what is what... wish me luck, i am about to fire up the dremel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 26, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 ok, one more go round on the binding touch up and i'll be done. we are very, very close on the binding now... ignore the cedar sawdust fill that will be gone soon... couldn't help myself, i am dreaming ahead of where i am actually at Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 26, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 got ready to go... then i decided i needed to practice some before sitting the dremel down on the rosewood. glad i did how far off am i? are these tolerances acceptable? or do i need more practice? i will be sanding, but i think i need to go a little deeper too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 26, 2009 Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 id say thats too much gap myself. but then one of the things that annoy me most are sloppy inlays with filler. i always complain about agiles and epis with fillet 1mm wide. haha.are you just free handing the cut? i have to think theres some way to run the dremel agaisnt a straight edge for at least the top and bottom lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 26, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 Originally Posted by ihavenofish id say thats too much gap myself. but then one of the things that annoy me most are sloppy inlays with filler. i always complain about agiles and epis with fillet 1mm wide. haha. are you just free handing the cut? i have to think theres some way to run the dremel agaisnt a straight edge for at least the top and bottom lines. ok, it looked like to much gap to me also, but i wasn't sure... i went back and measured with my digital caliper and the gap is roughly .8 mm on each side. i will see if i can tighten that up before trying the real board... i am free handing the sides only. i am using a 1x2 on the top/bottom edge for the dremel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members MahaloVision Posted December 26, 2009 Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 You can setup a straightedge made of something like 1/2" MDF so that the shaft of the bit rides along the edge but doesn't damage it, but you get a nice clean line in the fretboard. You guys know how much of a hamfisted lunk I am when it comes to inlay, but that looks like a tad too much room. You want a little room for expansion so that the inlays don't crack under compression, but that's probably a bit too much. Try to route until you just barely obliterate your scribe marks. White crayon or chalk helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 26, 2009 Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 Originally Posted by GuitarNoobie ok, it looked like to much gap to me also, but i wasn't sure... i went back and measured with my digital caliper and the gap is roughly .8 mm on each side. i will see if i can tighten that up before trying the real board... i am free handing the sides only. i am using a 1x2 on the top/bottom edge for the dremel. ah. it looks worse than it is then in the pics, haha. i would shoot for under .25mm on the top and bottoms. with a straight edge this shoul dbe doable, just need to get it lined up well. what size bit are you cutting with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 26, 2009 Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 i was talking to someone today about inlay work for my kits. trying to make it faster/cheaper and the like. he does inlays with a laser. its pretty neat. were gonna do a few test fretboards this month to see if its viable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 26, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 Originally Posted by MahaloVision You can setup a straightedge made of something like 1/2" MDF so that the shaft of the bit rides along the edge but doesn't damage it, but you get a nice clean line in the fretboard. You guys know how much of a hamfisted lunk I am when it comes to inlay, but that looks like a tad too much room. You want a little room for expansion so that the inlays don't crack under compression, but that's probably a bit too much. Try to route until you just barely obliterate your scribe marks. White crayon or chalk helps. i need to take a little bit less off for sure and not touching my scribe marks. btw, i am using a white pencil... Originally Posted by ihavenofish ah. it looks worse than it is then in the pics, haha. i would shoot for under .25mm on the top and bottoms. with a straight edge this shoul dbe doable, just need to get it lined up well. what size bit are you cutting with? that's a macro shot and my measurements may be a little off, but those gaps are not more than 1 mm... i have been able to get it down to about .65 mm, but would still like it better... i don't what size bit it is. the diameter is 3mm... i do have some dremel router bits, instead of a cutting bit, would that be better? i was using a cutting bit based on the video earlier in the thread, but i will open up the router bits and use the smallest straight bit if that would be better. i was gonna take them back, but if it provides more precision i will keep it and use it... Originally Posted by ihavenofish i was talking to someone today about inlay work for my kits. trying to make it faster/cheaper and the like. he does inlays with a laser. its pretty neat. were gonna do a few test fretboards this month to see if its viable. i wanna laser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members KLeeneX Posted December 26, 2009 Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 A friend of mine has one of these. http://www.signwarehouse.com/engravers/pinnacle_zx.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 26, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 Originally Posted by KLeeneX A friend of mine has one of these. http://www.signwarehouse.com/engravers/pinnacle_zx.htm ok, well i have been practicing and it comes down to taking my time, setting up the straight edges just shy of the scribe mark and moving slowly with some good lighting... here's my latest attempt... i'm moving onto the real thing now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 26, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 26, 2009 the non-macro version of the same route... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ihavenofish Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 thats getting not bad there. how are you doing it? my notion would be to maked the pocket undersized, then a littl ebit at a time move the straight edge over test fitting the inlay.in any case, what you have no is not worse than many asian made guitars ive seen. with well matched filler to the grain colour it should be fine.ebony is easier cause its more uniform and matches the filler better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GuitarNoobie Posted December 27, 2009 Author Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 well, here we go, not pefect, but definitely not terrible... inlay 1 and 2 routed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted December 27, 2009 Members Share Posted December 27, 2009 this is the way I would do it -Blue tape on boardscribe perimeter of inlay into the tapepeel off the scribed area, leaving only the blue you don't want to touchstay inside the inlay and do the clean up work with a sharp hobby knife and some picks or small chisels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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