Bad Sound Day Help

[Barisaxman2000]

Yep, terminology mixup - the powered JBL's are monitors, and based on the links, the 18" superty duper high power DJ 3 way boxes are the FOH. Sorry to sound exaggerated, but those tops are junk. I don't see how you can expect to get real good sound out of them. If they get the job done for your application, great. I wouldn't expect any raving recommendations for anything like that in a pro sound forum, though.

[agedhorse]

Oh good grief... utter junk. $1600??? What a waste IMO.

Ok, so you have a copy of one of the long since discontinued name brand models (it was discontinued because it was a terrible choice for most users) that is sure to be bottom feeder product. Sorry, but you do not have a sub like I incorrectly assumed from your description.

There's no help I can give you otherthan offering you the best of luck. You will need it. These are not real PA speakers or even suitable for what you are trying to do IMO with any quality.

The comp isn't going to help you either. You have way bigger challenges ahead.

[SOUND PROOF]

Oh good grief... utter junk. $1600??? What a waste IMO. Ok, so you have a copy of one of the long since discontinued name brand models (it was discontinued because it was a terrible choice for most users) that is sure to be bottom feeder product. Sorry, but you do not have a sub like I incorrectly assumed from your description. There's no help I can give you otherthan offering you the best of luck. You will need it. These are not real PA speakers or even suitable for what you are trying to do IMO with any quality. The comp isn't going to help you either. You have way bigger challenges ahead.

 

A sub to you a combo cabinet to me (IMHO). It has more then just a bass speaker in it (bass) 18" cone, (mid) 4" cone and some type (high) compression horn tweeter), so maybe you need to define sub to me also. As for using crossovers in this situation, I am still not understanding how you would do that with a combo cabinet (assuming thats what you ment given the gear presented). And what constitutes a real PA speaker, since I have been playing real gigs for several years now. I would hate the fact that I have been cheating all my clients out of quality sound for some time now. I hate to sound sarcastic old horse, but specifics help much more then generalizations and statements like "I wish you luck, you will need it." This kind of verbage doesn't help anyone. If you are truely trying to help and elevate someone to a higher understanding of audio gear please be more specific then your speakers suck and your compressor isn't helping you either. Prior to checking this forum everything with my system seemed fine to me and I was content with it, now that it has been ridiculed, I would atleast like specifics as to why. I skimped out on the speakers because my research (after talking to those who build speaker cabinets), was conclusive that there isn't enough differences in speaker cabinets to pay more for one over another that is more effordable given cost parameters. Am I not making full use of my power amp by using these speakers? Is the raw material in the speaker assemblies not equivalent to my jbl's? You have metal magnets moving in and out in a pulsating fashion connected to paper cones pushing air to create sound right? How much does one spend on this in combination with a crown XLS 402 to get the quality of sound (while utilizing the full amp output) that seems reasonable for a 300$ gig anyway? By the way, the instrumentation is usually singer/acoustic guitar, uprightBass, and Sax/flute and sometimes a percussionist.

[agedhorse]

I'm afraid my comments would serve no further purpose as you already know what yo need to know to be happy wioth what you have purchased. You have made your own bed, now it's yours to sleep in.

You have bought nothing equal to your JBL's, bits and pieces of parts do not equate to end p[roduct performance. Your comments and arguments show your lack of understanding about the subject as a whole, and your desire to remain uneducated about the topic.

[xmlguy]

OK, soundproof, I'm going to help you as best I can, and I'm going to assume that you're not here merely to waste everyones time and you're really trying to find out why your gear couldn't handle an outdoor venue well.

Who ever led you to believe that "there isn't enough differences in speaker cabinets to pay more for one over another that is more effordable given cost parameters" is not someone you should trust at all. That conclusion is completely false, and now you're suffering the consequences of believing it. Up to this point if you've only been doing gigs where low volumes are needed, you may not have noticed that you've been duped. It's like buying a car that you think is normal, and seems normal when you only drive it around town at 35mph and all goes well, instilling some confidence that it's just fine, but then when you get out onto the interstate highway it only gets up to 50mph when you need it to go 65-70mph, and even at 50mph the wheels start vibrating then fall off, then the car rolls and you get ejected because the airbags were fake and the seatbelts ripped because they were made of substandard materials, and the whole car was never tested for crash safety. Until after the crash, you didn't realize you were ripped off.

The original amp you described and those speakers follow this analogy. They might look the part - but they won't perform the same job as professional grade speakers/amps. Even worse is that you could've spent about the same amount of money and gotten a much better PA speaker system than what you did, but from a major manufacturer for speakers that are less than half the weight, about one quarter the size, louder, sound better, last longer, are easier to set up, and could be used in a wider variety of situations for your kind of music.

The speakers are heavy and bulky and have an 18" bass, 4" mid, and horn. That configuration would be very poor for your kind of music, even if you had high quality speaker components, because the 18" range is too low, the 4" overlaps the horn, and the horn will not handle the higher frequencies above 15Khz, and so the frequency response is going to have a very imbalanced performance throughout the range that will be difficult to accommodate if you don't have the equipment and training to try to balance it out even for low volumes. At higher volumes they will simply not provide the volume you need for the frequencies you use before they start distorting or get too loud for frequencies that you want to minimize. If you try to get enough volume out of them to handle a small outdoor venue, you will probably end up burning them out because the coils are not designed to handle the kind of honest power that's needed to get that volume. These speakers have little or no protection from burning them up, and they have no electronics that can help balance the frequency response. They are also inefficient speakers, so that you'll need as much as twice as much power (in watts) just to get the same amount of sound as other, more efficient, speakers.

Upgrading to the Crown amp will not fix the problems with your speakers. Everything you've written to this point indicates that you don't know enough to be able to pick a speaker & amplifier combination that will match each other and work well, and that is not a slam on you, since this isn't knowledge that you should be expected to know, nor do you need to know in order to end up with a good system if you rely on others who DO know how to do that.

When you buy powered speakers, you are buying the experience of the manufacturer to match the amplifier to the speaker, but better yet, they can build a much better speaker when they put them together as part of a single package. They can use separate amplifiers that are each designed to match each individual speaker - biamplification or triamplification. Since the powered speakers get the audio signal before it has been amplified, they can more easily split the audio into different frequency bands using an active crossover instead of a passive crossover that wastes audio power and have components that are more likely to fail at high power levels. They can also put in signal processing to balance the speakers with a built-in equalizer to adjust for mild variation in performance with the actual speakers selected. They can also put in a limiter to keep the speaker from burning up from high audio signals, high temperatures, or other potential damaging conditions. You don't get any of this when you buy an amp and speakers separately, so all the work is left to you, and when you don't know enough to do this work, then you get poor results, blown up speakers, or both.

At this point, I'd suggest that you sell the amp and speakers and get powered speakers. On the cheap/convenient end, a pair of Tapco Thump TH15A might be fine for you, or a pair of Behringer B212A or B215A. On the quality end, a pair of JBL PRX515 would be a better long term purchase.

[Shaster]

There are a number of no name and lesser name manufacturers that know how to market products to the first timer, amateur, educational (schools...), isolated (geographically and/or culturally) and until recently, the House of Worship market. Your speaker's company American Audio might be considered one of those.

On the face of it these speakers look the part, but peeking under the hood, you'll find that all is not well.

If the speakers are working for you, fantastic. And in those "few" times that they don't, you'll at least have an inkling of why not.

I invite you to hang out on this forum (it's actually pretty kind compared to some others) and see what the folks around here are doing.

Best of luck on your quest for knowledge and good sound - BTW I'm on the same journey.

[SOUND PROOF]

OK, soundproof, I'm going to help you as best I can, and I'm going to assume that you're not here merely to waste everyones time and you're really trying to find out why your gear couldn't handle an outdoor venue well. Who ever led you to believe that "there isn't enough differences in speaker cabinets to pay more for one over another that is more effordable given cost parameters" is not someone you should trust at all. That conclusion is completely false, and now you're suffering the consequences of believing it. Up to this point if you've only been doing gigs where low volumes are needed, you may not have noticed that you've been duped. It's like buying a car that you think is normal, and seems normal when you only drive it around town at 35mph and all goes well, instilling some confidence that it's just fine, but then when you get out onto the interstate highway it only gets up to 50mph when you need it to go 65-70mph, and even at 50mph the wheels start vibrating then fall off, then the car rolls and you get ejected because the airbags were fake and the seatbelts ripped because they were made of substandard materials, and the whole car was never tested for crash safety. Until after the crash, you didn't realize you were ripped off. The original amp you described and those speakers follow this analogy. They might look the part - but they won't perform the same job as professional grade speakers/amps. Even worse is that you could've spent about the same amount of money and gotten a much better PA speaker system than what you did, but from a major manufacturer for speakers that are less than half the weight, about one quarter the size, louder, sound better, last longer, are easier to set up, and could be used in a wider variety of situations for your kind of music. The speakers are heavy and bulky and have an 18" bass, 4" mid, and horn. That configuration would be very poor for your kind of music, even if you had high quality speaker components, because the 18" range is too low, the 4" overlaps the horn, and the horn will not handle the higher frequencies above 15Khz, and so the frequency response is going to have a very imbalanced performance throughout the range that will be difficult to accommodate if you don't have the equipment and training to try to balance it out even for low volumes. At higher volumes they will simply not provide the volume you need for the frequencies you use before they start distorting or get too loud for frequencies that you want to minimize. If you try to get enough volume out of them to handle a small outdoor venue, you will probably end up burning them out because the coils are not designed to handle the kind of honest power that's needed to get that volume. These speakers have little or no protection from burning them up, and they have no electronics that can help balance the frequency response. They are also inefficient speakers, so that you'll need as much as twice as much power (in watts) just to get the same amount of sound as other, more efficient, speakers. Upgrading to the Crown amp will not fix the problems with your speakers. Everything you've written to this point indicates that you don't know enough to be able to pick a speaker & amplifier combination that will match each other and work well, and that is not a slam on you, since this isn't knowledge that you should be expected to know, nor do you need to know in order to end up with a good system if you rely on others who DO know how to do that. When you buy powered speakers, you are buying the experience of the manufacturer to match the amplifier to the speaker, but better yet, they can build a much better speaker when they put them together as part of a single package. They can use separate amplifiers that are each designed to match each individual speaker - biamplification or triamplification. Since the powered speakers get the audio signal before it has been amplified, they can more easily split the audio into different frequency bands using an active crossover instead of a passive crossover that wastes audio power and have components that are more likely to fail at high power levels. They can also put in signal processing to balance the speakers with a built-in equalizer to adjust for mild variation in performance with the actual speakers selected. They can also put in a limiter to keep the speaker from burning up from high audio signals, high temperatures, or other potential damaging conditions. You don't get any of this when you buy an amp and speakers separately, so all the work is left to you, and when you don't know enough to do this work, then you get poor results, blown up speakers, or both. At this point, I'd suggest that you sell the amp and speakers and get powered speakers. On the cheap/convenient end, a pair of Tapco Thump TH15A might be fine for you, or a pair of Behringer B212A or B215A. On the quality end, a pair of JBL PRX515 would be a better long term purchase.

 

 

Sweet, you are the man with the plan and the most eloquent communicator so far. I have definitely given the JBL'S much consideration since I do have the 12" powered EONS. I like the JBL selection that you made and the fact that they have the crown amps built into them. But they would be a bit pricey for the both of them. Would the JBL JRX115 15" 2-Way PA Speaker Cabinet work in a pair with the crown XLS 402 or would it be to much for those particular speakers to handle that amp. This would be a cheaper quicker fix then selling speakers and amp. The system I am using now hasn't been pushed really except for once and it almost didn't make the cut. Truth be told I bought the same speaker twice because the first one the coil locked up on it (blown I guess). It wasn't a big loss because I got them for 75$ a piece. The gig was a 500$ gig so I still walked with change in my pocket.

[modulusman]

Boy I should get a pair of those PA cabs. The Frequency response is 26-20k. Somebodies marketing department has been smoking crack.

[agedhorse]

Boy I should get a pair of those PA cabs. The Frequency response is 26-20k. Somebodies marketing department has been smoking crack.

Or smoking a crack.

[xmlguy]

Sweet, you are the man with the plan and the most eloquent communicator so far. I have definitely given the JBL'S much consideration since I do have the 12" powered EONS. I like the JBL selection that you made and the fact that they have the crown amps built into them. But they would be a bit pricey for the both of them. Would the JBL JRX115 15" 2-Way PA Speaker Cabinet work in a pair with the crown XLS 402 or would it be to much for those particular speakers to handle that amp. This would be a cheaper quicker fix then selling speakers and amp. The system I am using now hasn't been pushed really except for once and it almost didn't make the cut. Truth be told I bought the same speaker twice because the first one the coil locked up on it (blown I guess). It wasn't a big loss because I got them for 75$ a piece. The gig was a 500$ gig so I still walked with change in my pocket.

 

 

I would only recommend powered speakers for you for the reasons I gave in my prior message. You could reuse the Crown XLS for floor monitors where there's less risk if you make a mistake, because monitors should be much cheaper than your main speakers. If you can't afford the PRX right away, find some of the used and older EON 15" powered models at a good price in the mean time while you're saving for a pair of the PRX. I suppose you could get a pair of used EON15 unpowered speakers, but I think you'll probably be able to find the powered ones for around the same price and a better value for your money.

[jwlussow]

 

Would the JBL JRX115 15" 2-Way PA Speaker Cabinet work in a pair with the crown XLS 402 or would it be to much for those particular speakers to handle that amp.

 

 

I really suggest staying away from the JRX line. While it will most likely be a better fit for you, it is really not a very good cab. The MRX or PRX are a little more but sound like night and day versus the JRX. If I were you, I'd seriously look at some powered alternatives. Ease of setup and much safer to run are just a few reasons that might make the powered purchase a good decision. Imagine not having to haul around those heavy amps and outboard gear that will not be needed with a powered system.

 

Just for info, there are no 2 or 3 or 4 way cabs that have a true sub. They might have a woofer but not a sub. A sub is a separate cab that is designed specifically for lower frequencies. Subs can use from 10" to I believe 21" speakers. They will have only one size even if there are more then one driver in them and they will not have a horn of any kind. 2, 3 or 4 way cabs are at best a stop gap between subs and mid highs. 15" or 18" tops can be used with bass and kick but they are not truly designed to replace a true sub. I spent years believing that my dual 15 + horn was a sub + main. I was very wrong and I was willing to learn from my mistakes and move on. The first time I heard a system with a real sub in a bar situation I was blown away. I've seen plenty of pro concerts but we were playing so often that I never went out to hear other bands. That one night changed my life and the band's sound forever. We've had a bunch of stuff since then but my system now is the best sounding system we've ever run and it cost more then $10,000 LESS then our last system.

[DBR]

I have a similar problem as you do MP3. I bought a pair of JBL G-732's. A name brand but utter junk (IMHO). I have an uphill battle for speakers at this point, also. Don't feel bad. Hopefully the issue will be resolved within the next few weeks. QSC...here I come. :lol:

[modulusman]

I have a similar problem as you do MP3. I bought a pair of JBL G-732's. A name brand but utter junk (IMHO). I have an uphill battle for speakers at this point, also. Don't feel bad. Hopefully the issue will be resolved within the next few weeks. QSC...here I come. :lol:

And exactly what were you expecting for a speaker line that is over 20 years old. JBL makes great stuff and some garbage.

[SOUND PROOF]

I really suggest staying away from the JRX line. While it will most likely be a better fit for you, it is really not a very good cab. The MRX or PRX are a little more but sound like night and day versus the JRX. If I were you, I'd seriously look at some powered alternatives. Ease of setup and much safer to run are just a few reasons that might make the powered purchase a good decision. Imagine not having to haul around those heavy amps and outboard gear that will not be needed with a powered system. Just for info, there are no 2 or 3 or 4 way cabs that have a true sub. They might have a woofer but not a sub. A sub is a separate cab that is designed specifically for lower frequencies. Subs can use from 10" to I believe 21" speakers. They will have only one size even if there are more then one driver in them and they will not have a horn of any kind. 2, 3 or 4 way cabs are at best a stop gap between subs and mid highs. 15" or 18" tops can be used with bass and kick but they are not truly designed to replace a true sub. I spent years believing that my dual 15 + horn was a sub + main. I was very wrong and I was willing to learn from my mistakes and move on. The first time I heard a system with a real sub in a bar situation I was blown away. I've seen plenty of pro concerts but we were playing so often that I never went out to hear other bands. That one night changed my life and the band's sound forever. We've had a bunch of stuff since then but my system now is the best sounding system we've ever run and it cost more then $10,000 LESS then our last system.

 

 

thanx...

[Hegmatronicon]

And exactly what were you expecting for a speaker line that is over 20 years old. JBL makes great stuff and some garbage.

Edited...

[Craig Vecchione]

 

Maybe he (and others) were expecting you to be a bit less of a dick to them in this thread. I mean - i realise it must bug you that you seem to know so much more than other people.....but i learned things from this thread.

 

 

 

Personal attacks like this are unwelcome.

[Hegmatronicon]

Personal attacks like this are unwelcome.

 

 

It wasn't meant as an "attack". Edited it out tho.

[SOUND PROOF]

OK, soundproof, I'm going to help you as best I can, and I'm going to assume that you're not here merely to waste everyones time and you're really trying to find out why your gear couldn't handle an outdoor venue well. Who ever led you to believe that "there isn't enough differences in speaker cabinets to pay more for one over another that is more effordable given cost parameters" is not someone you should trust at all. That conclusion is completely false, and now you're suffering the consequences of believing it. Up to this point if you've only been doing gigs where low volumes are needed, you may not have noticed that you've been duped. It's like buying a car that you think is normal, and seems normal when you only drive it around town at 35mph and all goes well, instilling some confidence that it's just fine, but then when you get out onto the interstate highway it only gets up to 50mph when you need it to go 65-70mph, and even at 50mph the wheels start vibrating then fall off, then the car rolls and you get ejected because the airbags were fake and the seatbelts ripped because they were made of substandard materials, and the whole car was never tested for crash safety. Until after the crash, you didn't realize you were ripped off. The original amp you described and those speakers follow this analogy. They might look the part - but they won't perform the same job as professional grade speakers/amps. Even worse is that you could've spent about the same amount of money and gotten a much better PA speaker system than what you did, but from a major manufacturer for speakers that are less than half the weight, about one quarter the size, louder, sound better, last longer, are easier to set up, and could be used in a wider variety of situations for your kind of music. The speakers are heavy and bulky and have an 18" bass, 4" mid, and horn. That configuration would be very poor for your kind of music, even if you had high quality speaker components, because the 18" range is too low, the 4" overlaps the horn, and the horn will not handle the higher frequencies above 15Khz, and so the frequency response is going to have a very imbalanced performance throughout the range that will be difficult to accommodate if you don't have the equipment and training to try to balance it out even for low volumes. At higher volumes they will simply not provide the volume you need for the frequencies you use before they start distorting or get too loud for frequencies that you want to minimize. If you try to get enough volume out of them to handle a small outdoor venue, you will probably end up burning them out because the coils are not designed to handle the kind of honest power that's needed to get that volume. These speakers have little or no protection from burning them up, and they have no electronics that can help balance the frequency response. They are also inefficient speakers, so that you'll need as much as twice as much power (in watts) just to get the same amount of sound as other, more efficient, speakers. Upgrading to the Crown amp will not fix the problems with your speakers. Everything you've written to this point indicates that you don't know enough to be able to pick a speaker & amplifier combination that will match each other and work well, and that is not a slam on you, since this isn't knowledge that you should be expected to know, nor do you need to know in order to end up with a good system if you rely on others who DO know how to do that. When you buy powered speakers, you are buying the experience of the manufacturer to match the amplifier to the speaker, but better yet, they can build a much better speaker when they put them together as part of a single package. They can use separate amplifiers that are each designed to match each individual speaker - biamplification or triamplification. Since the powered speakers get the audio signal before it has been amplified, they can more easily split the audio into different frequency bands using an active crossover instead of a passive crossover that wastes audio power and have components that are more likely to fail at high power levels. They can also put in signal processing to balance the speakers with a built-in equalizer to adjust for mild variation in performance with the actual speakers selected. They can also put in a limiter to keep the speaker from burning up from high audio signals, high temperatures, or other potential damaging conditions. You don't get any of this when you buy an amp and speakers separately, so all the work is left to you, and when you don't know enough to do this work, then you get poor results, blown up speakers, or both. At this point, I'd suggest that you sell the amp and speakers and get powered speakers. On the cheap/convenient end, a pair of Tapco Thump TH15A might be fine for you, or a pair of Behringer B212A or B215A. On the quality end, a pair of JBL PRX515 would be a better long term purchase.

 

 

Ok, I think I found some jbl prx 515's (at a good price,used). I am curious to know if you know of a formula to figure out the coverage of watts to square footage. Basically how to figure out how many watts will cover how many feet indoors first, then out doors (I am assuming the coverage will be different because of the walls and wind factors).

[RoadRanger]

I am curious to know if you know of a formula to figure out the coverage of watts to square footage. Basically how to figure out how many watts will cover how many feet indoors first, then out doors (I am assuming the coverage will be different because of the walls and wind factors).

You'll be getting lots of "it depends" answers but I use a rough guide of 10 watts per person indoors for "rock concert" level sound. Double that outdoors. Usually 1/3 of the power to the mains and 2/3 to the subs. Top quality efficient speakers can probably get away with half that power. If you don't need to be so loud that people can't converse without screaming into each other's ears maybe half it again.

[agedhorse]

Yes, it depends entirely on the sensitivity and the internal processing. Well executed limiting (which the PRX has) can increase the effective SPL by 3dB (essentially doubling the equiv. power.)

Without considering the limits on the low end (ie assuming subs will be used) I would guess that at typical reasonable bar back levels a pair would be good for covering around 200 folks.

[RoadRanger]

Without considering the limits on the low end (ie assuming subs will be used) I would guess that at typical reasonable bar back levels a pair would be good for covering around 200 folks.

500w x 2 = 1000w + assuming you have 2000w of subs = 3000w / 10w/person = 300 so I'd be a bit more optimistic . To get 2000w of subs you'd have to be running two 2x18" cabs off a big amp like a QSC RMX4050HD. With no subs you'd be hard pressed to cover a 100 person room .

[SOUND PROOF]

OK, soundproof, I'm going to help you as best I can, and I'm going to assume that you're not here merely to waste everyones time and you're really trying to find out why your gear couldn't handle an outdoor venue well. Who ever led you to believe that "there isn't enough differences in speaker cabinets to pay more for one over another that is more effordable given cost parameters" is not someone you should trust at all. That conclusion is completely false, and now you're suffering the consequences of believing it. Up to this point if you've only been doing gigs where low volumes are needed, you may not have noticed that you've been duped. It's like buying a car that you think is normal, and seems normal when you only drive it around town at 35mph and all goes well, instilling some confidence that it's just fine, but then when you get out onto the interstate highway it only gets up to 50mph when you need it to go 65-70mph, and even at 50mph the wheels start vibrating then fall off, then the car rolls and you get ejected because the airbags were fake and the seatbelts ripped because they were made of substandard materials, and the whole car was never tested for crash safety. Until after the crash, you didn't realize you were ripped off. The original amp you described and those speakers follow this analogy. They might look the part - but they won't perform the same job as professional grade speakers/amps. Even worse is that you could've spent about the same amount of money and gotten a much better PA speaker system than what you did, but from a major manufacturer for speakers that are less than half the weight, about one quarter the size, louder, sound better, last longer, are easier to set up, and could be used in a wider variety of situations for your kind of music. The speakers are heavy and bulky and have an 18" bass, 4" mid, and horn. That configuration would be very poor for your kind of music, even if you had high quality speaker components, because the 18" range is too low, the 4" overlaps the horn, and the horn will not handle the higher frequencies above 15Khz, and so the frequency response is going to have a very imbalanced performance throughout the range that will be difficult to accommodate if you don't have the equipment and training to try to balance it out even for low volumes. At higher volumes they will simply not provide the volume you need for the frequencies you use before they start distorting or get too loud for frequencies that you want to minimize. If you try to get enough volume out of them to handle a small outdoor venue, you will probably end up burning them out because the coils are not designed to handle the kind of honest power that's needed to get that volume. These speakers have little or no protection from burning them up, and they have no electronics that can help balance the frequency response. They are also inefficient speakers, so that you'll need as much as twice as much power (in watts) just to get the same amount of sound as other, more efficient, speakers. Upgrading to the Crown amp will not fix the problems with your speakers. Everything you've written to this point indicates that you don't know enough to be able to pick a speaker & amplifier combination that will match each other and work well, and that is not a slam on you, since this isn't knowledge that you should be expected to know, nor do you need to know in order to end up with a good system if you rely on others who DO know how to do that. When you buy powered speakers, you are buying the experience of the manufacturer to match the amplifier to the speaker, but better yet, they can build a much better speaker when they put them together as part of a single package. They can use separate amplifiers that are each designed to match each individual speaker - biamplification or triamplification. Since the powered speakers get the audio signal before it has been amplified, they can more easily split the audio into different frequency bands using an active crossover instead of a passive crossover that wastes audio power and have components that are more likely to fail at high power levels. They can also put in signal processing to balance the speakers with a built-in equalizer to adjust for mild variation in performance with the actual speakers selected. They can also put in a limiter to keep the speaker from burning up from high audio signals, high temperatures, or other potential damaging conditions. You don't get any of this when you buy an amp and speakers separately, so all the work is left to you, and when you don't know enough to do this work, then you get poor results, blown up speakers, or both. At this point, I'd suggest that you sell the amp and speakers and get powered speakers. On the cheap/convenient end, a pair of Tapco Thump TH15A might be fine for you, or a pair of Behringer B212A or B215A. On the quality end, a pair of JBL PRX515 would be a better long term purchase.

 

So I search and find some JBL PRX 515'S on kregs list for 900$, I drive all the way down to Miami (1hr 1/2 away). I go into the guys house who is selling them and hook them up and all sounds nice. I look at the back and notice they are only 512's. None the less I still get them, because they are 900$ for the pair and they are practically brand new. Hopefully they will get the job done for awhile. Now my system will be mackie dfx, into dbx 1066 then into the PRX 512's (FHS) then daisy chain the 512's into my powered eon 12's for monitors. Of course this will be for acoustic music situations. Vocalist, acoustic guitar, flute/ sax, Double bass, percussionist. I can run the 512's into the eon 12's right.

[SOUND PROOF]

So I search and find some JBL PRX 515'S on kregs list for 900$, I drive all the way down to Miami (1hr 1/2 away). I go into the guys house who is selling them and hook them up and all sounds nice. I look at the back and notice they are only 512's. None the less I still get them, because they are 900$ for the pair and they are practically brand new. Hopefully they will get the job done for awhile. Now my system will be mackie dfx, into dbx 1066 then into the PRX 512's (FHS) then daisy chain the 512's into my powered eon 12's for monitors. Of course this will be for acoustic music situations. Vocalist, acoustic guitar, flute/ sax, Double bass, percussionist. I can run the 512's into the eon 12's right.

 

Ok actually the monitors are the EON 10'S. There is no such thing as a EON 12's i have just learned (much to my surprise). Christ I just like to play my guitar and sing.

[agedhorse]

See how tough it is to keep things straight?

Simple is good.

[modulusman]

:thu:The PRX512m are nice speakers. I own 4 of them myself.