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Bad Sound Day Help


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Ok I have been playing with these speakers at lower levels for a week. They would make their first day debut on monday, but I think it is a small enough place that I will be using my Eon's for. I am taking these PRX'S into the speaker doctor to look at the amp in one of them, after much analyzes I think there is a issue with one of them. The issue I was having with both of them was an early die off of the signal. Well come to find out there is a gate in the amp that creates this (not very pleasing to me but o well). Well after further research I notice on the B&H website they say the crowns are class b amps, when everyone else says they are class d. I guess the amp has to be compromised because it is so small and light, and that is also why the gate is on it to, to give the illusion of less noise by cutting it off earlier?

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The story goes on, I have one of the Prx's in the shop and they don't seem to know what is wrong with it. I took the other one out to my Monday night gig and it was working like a champ and about 2 hours into the gig it crackled (loudly) for about 3 or 4 seconds then i turned it down and tried changing my Taylors battery (thinking that it might be because of the taylors pick-up/ which in the past has made some pretty weird sounds when the battery is low/ well actually I think it had to do with the cord too (It seems to also need a 1/4 inch into guitar and a XLR out into the board cord). Well as I was playing through the speaker this afternoon for a couple of hours the same thing happened? I give up, I hope it is a simple fix with de-oxit sprayed into the xlr ins on the back of the speaker.

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Maybe the first warranty JBL is gonna be pissed about honoring?
;)



They will honor a warranty with a bill of sale. Since I bought these speakers from a third party it makes it more complicated to deal with, maybe I can devise some fabricated story about why I dont have a bill of sale.

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Woah That's a lot of posts. I didn't have time to read them all so sorry if what I say is redundant. I had a Pyramid amp many years ago (I'm suprised they're still in business). I traded it off for some blown (but good quality) speakers. It was supposed to be something like 1000 watts but it was understood by myself and the other party involved that it was in reality somewhere around 150 watts (cool analog meters though).

I remember years ago (like in the 60s) that wattage ratings were often misleading. For some reason I thought that the Government (or some trade comission or bureau of standards) forced manufacturers to stay within certain rating guidlines. For years it seemed that the gap between real and "wishfull thinking" watts had closed. Did some law get repealed or is no longer enforced?

Another place you find this same kind of tom foolery is with computer power supplies. A Cheap 800 watt supply might only really put out 150 watts continuously, where as a quality product will actualy give 800 watts of continuous service Price difference $30 - $130. Buy once, Cry once.

OK here's my total digression from the original post. Sorry.

My friend has a computer store (he also refurbishes pinball machines among other things). I occasionaly drop by and pick up all of his scrap computers and cobble together a couple of good working machines (which I usualy give to friends - they're usualy not worth selling). Sort of a computer scrap & salvage operation. I toss the non standard cases but I have a pile of (probably) dead power supplies.

Since ATX power supplies are roughly the same size I have been thinking about coming up with a circuit board with a 12AT7 tube socket and making mono block mic pre's. The boxes already have an AC cord socket, a switch and are vented well.

Just a thought.

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Woah That's a lot of posts. I didn't have time to read them all so sorry if what I say is redundant. I had a Pyramid amp many years ago (I'm suprised they're still in business). I traded it off for some blown (but good quality) speakers. It was supposed to be something like 1000 watts but it was understood by myself and the other party involved that it was in reality somewhere around 150 watts (cool analog meters though).


I remember years ago (like in the 60s) that wattage ratings were often misleading. For some reason I thought that the Government (or some trade comission or bureau of standards) forced manufacturers to stay within certain rating guidlines. For years it seemed that the gap between real and "wishfull thinking" watts had closed. Did some law get repealed or is no longer enforced?


Another place you find this same kind of tom foolery is with computer power supplies. A Cheap 800 watt supply might only really put out 150 watts continuously, where as a quality product will actualy give 800 watts of continuous service Price difference $30 - $130. Buy once, Cry once.


OK here's my total digression from the original post. Sorry.


My friend has a computer store (he also refurbishes pinball machines among other things). I occasionaly drop by and pick up all of his scrap computers and cobble together a couple of good working machines (which I usualy give to friends - they're usualy not worth selling). Sort of a computer scrap & salvage operation. I toss the non standard cases but I have a pile of (probably) dead power supplies.


Since ATX power supplies are roughly the same size I have been thinking about coming up with a circuit board with a 12AT7 tube socket and making mono block mic pre's. The boxes already have an AC cord socket, a switch and are vented well.


Just a thought.

 

 

Interesting.. good luck... yea 150 sounds about right on the pyramid. of course this post was started a couple of years ago... now I am running JBL PRX'S.... and using jbl eons as monitors...

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500w x 2 = 1000w + assuming you have 2000w of subs = 3000w / 10w/person = 300 so I'd be a bit more optimistic
:)
. To get 2000w of subs you'd have to be running two 2x18" cabs off a big amp like a QSC RMX4050HD. With no subs you'd be hard pressed to cover a 100 person room
:(
.



It is safe to say when running sound for an audience that we should assume about 10 watts per person right?

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It is safe to say when running sound for an audience that we should assume about 10 watts per person right?

 

 

Depends. Indoors or out? Is it a club with high audience density, or a bigger concert hall type of space? Is it bluegrass, folk, jazz, blues, classical, spoken-word, rock, metal, hip-hop, etc. etc.?? Each can have generally acceptable levels. Is the space acoustically dead, or horribly reflective?

 

You could need anything from 2w per person to 50 or more. Depends.

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