Members blarin Posted April 2, 2011 Members Share Posted April 2, 2011 I have a very short amount of time, and a very low budget, to put together some subs.I know very little about anything i am saying. Any ideas, contradictions, or confirmations that this might work out would help. I am also considering wine barrels. Here is my current plot: Idea no. 1:Get some big plastic barrels, cut a hole to mount the speaker on on the bottom facing out, cut a huge vent hole in the side of the barrel, put in a board in a position to direct air pressure (sound) from the back of the speaker out the side of the barrel, reinforce barrel with planks and tie straps. Lay barrel on side with speaker facing victim and sound hole facing roof or wall. Phasing issues galore? Idea 2:Same as above; but with speaker facing into barrel, sound hole facing fool, and barrel standing with back of speaker facing ceiling. I really just need a fast, easy, cheap enclosure. Non barrel related ideas welcome. Thanks. EDIT: Another idea is two speakers of opposite phase facing out each side of a barrel! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members theAntihero Posted April 2, 2011 Members Share Posted April 2, 2011 Um......ported anything needs to be engineered unless you want to rip your speakers to shreds or at the very least sound very bad, Im gonna take a leap here, im not an audio engineer but i cant imagine anyone, ever wanting to mount subs in a barrel. Plus, unless im reading this wrong, how are you planning on securing a speaker on a cured surface? or even in the plastic? It'll rip anything right out if used as a sub. Honestly im hoping this is some sort of odd, late , april fools thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members blarin Posted April 2, 2011 Author Members Share Posted April 2, 2011 APRIL FOOLS! (not). I am serious, but unwise and inexperienced. I was thinking of having the speaker itself mounted on plywood, then screwing the plywood to the barrel. I could potentially "engineer" it by just shortening the barrel, and reducing airspace/adjusting the size of the hole? What about two speakers of opposite phase? Or just an open back?I am assuming a closed box is not an option due to the size of speaker, is this correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted April 2, 2011 Members Share Posted April 2, 2011 I'll give it an "A" for being different. If cost is a concern, go find a good used sub. The world is awash in used subs of mediocre quality. Any 21" driver worth looking at is going to cost you more than most used subs anyway. There's a lot more to making your idea work even barely than you might imagine. "Phasing" is the least of your worries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members blarin Posted April 2, 2011 Author Members Share Posted April 2, 2011 To the demographic involved, size is more important than actual functionality. Edit: What about a wine cask? Open back, or with two speakers of opposite phase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members theAntihero Posted April 2, 2011 Members Share Posted April 2, 2011 I'll give it an "A" for being different.If cost is a concern, go find a good used sub. The world is awash in used subs of mediocre quality. Any 21" driver worth looking at is going to cost you more than most used subs anyway. There's a lot more to making your idea work even barely than you might imagine. "Phasing" is the least of your worries. Blarin, this guy is an actual audio engineer, does it look like he thinks it would work? Open backed subs???? Do you have any idea just how absurd that is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members blarin Posted April 2, 2011 Author Members Share Posted April 2, 2011 Blarin, this guy is an actual audio engineer, does it look like he thinks it would work?Open backed subs???? Do you have any idea just how absurd that is? No, i actually have no idea, which is why i am asking. Thanks for the answers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members trevcda Posted April 2, 2011 Members Share Posted April 2, 2011 A good start to getting plausible ideas would be to post the thiel-small specs of the intended speaker or at least the make and model of them and the interior volume and dimensions of the enclosure (barrels) in question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jwlussow Posted April 2, 2011 Members Share Posted April 2, 2011 So this is for the "bigger is better" crowd? I suggest a decent used sub and then create some eye candy for the crowd. You would be surprised how many acts do stuff like what is seen in the attached pic... [ATTACH=CONFIG]333622[/ATTACH] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Dookietwo Posted April 2, 2011 Members Share Posted April 2, 2011 The length of the barrel would be important as would be its location of the speaker inside. 2 or 3+ barrels joined in a line together might work. From the front of the barrel to the back would have to be around 1/2 wavelength in the general operating range of the sub. For an 80 hz signal this would be around 14 feet. The sound would travel down the barrel and come out the back. Some of the wave would move to the front and reach it in phase with the next wave coming out the front. Totally silly but it could be done. The back of the drum would have to be open. Who knows how this would load the driver. Maybe as an infin. baffle? Kind of like the Bose cannon. http://pro.bose.com/pdf/pro/brochures/acoustic_wave_cannon/b_awcannon.pdf Build the correct box and be done with it. Dookietwo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted April 2, 2011 Members Share Posted April 2, 2011 I suggest that you read a few primers on speaker design, how they work, why things are done typically the way they are, and why some approaches just won't work. Then you will have some better basis to ask more meaningful questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members soul-x Posted April 2, 2011 Members Share Posted April 2, 2011 The very few 21" drivers of which I am aware are in excess of $500 a piece. So I say you go for it. You've got an extra few thousand dollars lying around to capitalize your quick, cheap, bolted in a plastic barrel subs, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted April 2, 2011 Members Share Posted April 2, 2011 Wow - maybe there is something crappier than a Gemini or Pyle sub . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jonthomas Posted April 3, 2011 Members Share Posted April 3, 2011 Wow - maybe there is something crappier than a Gemini or Pyle sub . http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/555-10320 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RoadRanger Posted April 3, 2011 Members Share Posted April 3, 2011 http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/555-10320No need for those "expensive" ones - these 600w "gems" are flat to 25hz: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/555-10317 . Oh, and speaking of "gems" you all should "upgrade" all your wireless mics for $20 a channel: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/35-3080 " I'm tired of these m'f'in subs in these m'f'in barrels ! " - Samuel l. Jackson's sound guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted April 3, 2011 Members Share Posted April 3, 2011 and 91dB/1W/1M if you believe the specs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jwlussow Posted April 3, 2011 Members Share Posted April 3, 2011 Great stuff. Nothing says "pro" like the choice of 1/4" or binding post inputs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members theAntihero Posted April 3, 2011 Members Share Posted April 3, 2011 and 91dB/1W/1M if you believe the specs But dude they're like 50 bucks:eek: Sure you'd need to pump a bajillion watts into them to actually hear them, and since they seem handle a whole 300w explode them, but they're 50 bucks:lol: Sadly they probably lied a bit about that and they actually arent that efficient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members popgadget Posted April 3, 2011 Members Share Posted April 3, 2011 Here's the 18" version, still only 91db, but these are 1000 watts, so they must be real loud. And two of them are a total of $228 delivered. I bet that you could put a plank between them and stand on it to paint ceilings as well. How could you go wrong? Well, I guess if you actually tried to use them as subs, that could be a mistake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted April 3, 2011 Members Share Posted April 3, 2011 I guarantee that's not a 500 watt RMS (the way our industry typically rates them) speaker. I say 250/500/1000W, and that's opitmistic, and at 91dB/1W/1M they might look ok in traffic but that's about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members abzurd Posted April 4, 2011 Members Share Posted April 4, 2011 I have a very short amount of time, and a very low budget, to put together some subs.I know very little about anything i am saying. This should be enough to just stop and look for mainstream, pre-made subs. Even then, if you don't have enough money to buy subs, then don't. Since all that you gave us is "very low budget" and the barrel idea, I'm assuming you have some line on free to near free barrels and are just looking for any "hole filler" speaker you can find. So what's the total budget? $100? Why do you absolutely have to have giant, yet near worthless, subs? Was there some promise made that this is what you'd deliver? Why not something mainstream that has at least a snowballs chance in hell of working? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members stix 518 Posted April 4, 2011 Members Share Posted April 4, 2011 Hey Abzurd... His premise is your handle ABSURD: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Bobby1Note Posted April 4, 2011 Members Share Posted April 4, 2011 I guarantee that's not a 500 watt RMS (the way our industry typically rates them) speaker. I say 250/500/1000W, and that's opitmistic, and at 91dB/1W/1M they might look ok in traffic but that's about it. Looks to me like they're saying MAX SPL is 91dB,,, not sensitivity. Ya gotta love the low-frequency response too; 20Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members scarecrowbob Posted April 4, 2011 Members Share Posted April 4, 2011 See, when I read the OP, I asked myself-- how could this -not- be an April fools joke. Maybe it isn't but damn.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members IsildursBane Posted April 4, 2011 Members Share Posted April 4, 2011 Edit: What about a wine cask? Ignoring the functional problems, that could actually look pretty cool. -Dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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