Members Mr Temporary Posted June 2, 2016 Members Share Posted June 2, 2016 I'm partial to interference colors myself: http://shop.thecoatingstore.com/media/KF-09,%20600px.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bieke Posted June 3, 2016 Members Share Posted June 3, 2016 it is Fiesta Red, my badfrom 1967 if I'm not mistaken (again) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bieke Posted June 3, 2016 Members Share Posted June 3, 2016 another Fiesta Red VI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bieke Posted June 3, 2016 Members Share Posted June 3, 2016 Shoreline Gold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bieke Posted June 3, 2016 Members Share Posted June 3, 2016 black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bieke Posted June 3, 2016 Members Share Posted June 3, 2016 blonde Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bieke Posted June 3, 2016 Members Share Posted June 3, 2016 how about Sherwood Green Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bieke Posted June 3, 2016 Members Share Posted June 3, 2016 you can still grow hair and do a Jack Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators ThudMaker Posted June 6, 2016 Moderators Share Posted June 6, 2016 Thanks Thud. If I do it, I'll probably take a ton of pictures and may even do a write-up / article on DIY refinishing. I'll keep you posted. Do you have any custom color suggestions? Well I see you have a red one and a pink one. I can't tell in the pics because they come off differently, but the one is either a minty green or a light blue. So...You're missing a light blue or a surf green. Also, purple or a banana yellow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 you can still grow hair... Afraid not. ...and do a Jack Bruce If I had the artistic talent to do that myself I might actually consider it... but I don't think I'd want one otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 how about Sherwood Green That's a very real possibility, except I don't like the shading I see in a lot of the "Sherwood" rattle cans. They don't quite look like that color to me... but if I could find that exact shade, it would definitely be one of the top contenders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 That just looks super-hawt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 anyway, here's my JM before and after before after I fool myself to believe it sounds better, but it feels better, less sticky very prone to buckle rash and dents replaced the ketchup pickguard with a darker one all in all, refin cost me less than 100$ alternatively, for your Bass VI, you could buy and put a finish on a USACG body and keep the sunburst body (or sell it, if you're certain not wanting to go back to sunburst). Or you could just put a finish straight on the poly, save the trouble Very nice bieke - it's got that Elvis Costello vibe going on now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 BTW, that's not a bad suggestion about getting a replacement body, finishing that, and swapping it out, although I'd really like to give this a matching headstock too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted June 7, 2016 Members Share Posted June 7, 2016 Whatever you decide to do Phil, how about documenting it with a detailed thread. Show each step, the materials and tools that you used, and good close up pictures of the results. It might discourage others. Being the wood slut that I am, I like natural finishes that show the beauty and grain of the wood. I like sunbursts, in part because I know how difficult they are to hand apply. When I see a painted guitar I know that most of the time they are hiding ugly wood. However a really good painter can get a pretty good solid color finish using automobile products - my friend who paints motorcycles has done some nice guitar finishes using the same products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bieke Posted June 7, 2016 Members Share Posted June 7, 2016 that was the the inspiration, it's a bit lighter and less shiny than the Costello sig JM's, but I found some good pics of the first Costello's JM and wanted it to look like that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bieke Posted June 7, 2016 Members Share Posted June 7, 2016 That's a very real possibility, except I don't like the shading I see in a lot of the "Sherwood" rattle cans. They don't quite look like that color to me... but if I could find that exact shade, it would definitely be one of the top contenders. I also like the Sherwood a lot, this was originally a white Squier 6 that got refin and relic job at Relic'Art Guitares of France more pics here http://www.relicartguitares.fr/RelicArt_Guitares/147.html#grid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 ^^^ That looks awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted June 10, 2016 Members Share Posted June 10, 2016 ^^^ That looks awesome! Phil, I beg to differ with you. That looks like hell and I don't understand why anyone would intentionally do that to a guitar. Now this qualifies as "awesome" as does this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted June 10, 2016 Members Share Posted June 10, 2016 Or maybe this or how about this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted June 10, 2016 Members Share Posted June 10, 2016 The same guy who did the guitars above laid some ghost flames on my little scoot - here is the tank after he had finished with it and when I built the ES-175 clone for him he did the finish on it. Anyone feel like "relicing" one of these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 All of those are exceptionally nice Freeman - but way beyond my modest skill level. I've done one relic finish, just to try it, and it turned out pretty good IMHO, but I'm generally not into the whole reliced thing. I have guitars I've owned for decades that still look very nice. I certainly have no intention of relicing this Squier - it's only a couple / few years old, but there's still not a mark on it. IMO it would be a shame to ding it all up - even though I do love the look of old guitars that have been heavily used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted June 10, 2016 Members Share Posted June 10, 2016 So when someone "relics' a guitar do they purposely screw up the neck angle, file grooves in the frets, set the action really high? Do they put a little sand in the tuners so they won't work well, maybe fray a few wires on the pups and pour a little water in the pots to corrode them. Or do they just want it to look like a piece of junk? I have many legitimate antiques in my house, some guitars that date before the war, a couple of vintage cars. They have earned their little flaws gracefully. But I still don't understand distressed furniture, ripped jeans, rat rods or "reliced" guitars. End of rant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted June 20, 2016 Author Share Posted June 20, 2016 So when someone "relics' a guitar do they purposely screw up the neck angle, file grooves in the frets, set the action really high? Do they put a little sand in the tuners so they won't work well, maybe fray a few wires on the pups and pour a little water in the pots to corrode them. Or do they just want it to look like a piece of junk? I have many legitimate antiques in my house, some guitars that date before the war, a couple of vintage cars. They have earned their little flaws gracefully. But I still don't understand distressed furniture, ripped jeans, rat rods or "reliced" guitars. End of rant. Relics are supposed to look and feel old, but remain fully functional. If the bridge is so rusted that you can't intonate the guitar, it's worthless IMO. Again, it's not really my "thing" - I only did one to see what the process was and to see if I could do it in such a way that it looked half-way believable. Many of the "relic jobs" out there are just total crap that look totally fake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted June 20, 2016 Members Share Posted June 20, 2016 Whatever you decide to do Phil, how about documenting it with a detailed thread. Show each step, the materials and tools that you used, and good close up pictures of the results. It might discourage others. Being the wood slut that I am, I like natural finishes that show the beauty and grain of the wood. I like sunbursts, in part because I know how difficult they are to hand apply. When I see a painted guitar I know that most of the time they are hiding ugly wood. However a really good painter can get a pretty good solid color finish using automobile products - my friend who paints motorcycles has done some nice guitar finishes using the same products. The last solid paint job I did was using automobile paint. Its beginning to have issues however. I got the paint on there perfectly. Red metallic sparkle. I must have dinged the guitar and the paint cracked and chipped off just like it does on an actual automobile when you get a fender bender. Because of this I assume Automobile paint must be harder then normal lacquers and is better off being applied to a hard surface. It sure looked good when I first put it one but one knock and it shatters like an egg shell. I think Phil will be better off using poly based paints if he's going to paint over the existing finish. Nothing but bad things will happen if you try and use lacquer over poly or vice versa. I Tried using poly over lacquer once. It peeled off the lacquer like sunburned skin in huge sheets. The rule of thumb in finishing is stick with the same chemical base throughout. If you started with something alcohol based like shellac or lacquer, stay with an alcohol base till the end. If its poly, stick with poly and you wont develop issues with expansion/contraction or adhesion. Often times sticking with the same manufacturers products is important too. Manufacturers have gotten smart with their products so a paint and clear coat work together and swapping brands can cause failures so be sure to read the cans and follow the recommendations so you don't develop issues and have to start over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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