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How much to turn my Acoustic into Acoustic/Electric?


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Why not just buy the Epi?

 

Anyway, here's what I'd look into:

 

http://shorelinemusic.com/collections/lr-baggs/products/lr-baggs-m1-active

 

Built in preamp. (no preamp/passive version is $30 less.) It's removable. Magnetic, not microphonic like the JJB or K&K. $160.

 

Installation is easy enough unless you don't want the cord dangling out of the soundhole and want an endpin jack installed instead. Even then it's a cheap and easy enough DIY project to do. Harbor Freight tools sells a reamer for $6 that you can fit into a drill like a drill bit. That's what I did when I put a JJB in my Martin. All told I electrified that guitar for about $50.

 

How did you amplify your acoustic for 50$? And what all did you use and get to do that? I would love to pay 50 bucks to amplify my acoustic that's all I'm really wanting to do. Amplify it and keep it cheap like you did

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How did you amplify your acoustic for 50$? And what all did you use and get to do that? I would love to pay 50 bucks to amplify my acoustic that's all I'm really wanting to do. Amplify it and keep it cheap like you did

 

If you go back to my first post (#6) you will see that I mentioned sound hole magnetic pickups for 50 bucks. I assumed you could use a good search engine but here are a couple

 

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SA3SC?adpos=1o2&creative=55397627521&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CKL_nc3MrMkCFUqUfgodTDAFog

 

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/NeoDSingle?adpos=1o3&creative=55397627521&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CKPK2IjNrMkCFYJqfgodS24Odg

 

I'll bet that if you hunted around evil bay you could find something for even less.

 

Anybody can install one of these, the only tricky part (as I also mentioned) is reaming out the end pin to fit the jack. Some people use twist drills, some use a Uni bit, I happen to have the correct reamer (as your luthier would) and I'd probably charge you a beer to ream the hole if you lived near me. I've also seen people who just leave the cable hanging out on the side of the guitar....

 

Whether that is the sound you want or not only you can decide. You seemed so intent on something like your pictures that I quit trying to show you any options. Btw - back when your budget was a couple of hundred dollars I think there are some very good options

 

Also, if you take the neck pup and controls out of one of your smashed Tele's it would be pretty easy to build a sound hole mount for it. I'd probably charge you a couple of beers for that one.....

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How did you amplify your acoustic for 50$? And what all did you use and get to do that? I would love to pay 50 bucks to amplify my acoustic that's all I'm really wanting to do. Amplify it and keep it cheap like you did

He installed a JJB Prestige 330: http://jjb-electronics.com/prestige-330.html. $49.99 shipped for the pickup and $2.99+tax for the reamer: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=reamer. Depending on how loud you play, you may need to invest another $8.00 or so in a feedback buster: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/FBR2/. That's under $65 to electrify your guitar.

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If you go back to my first post (#6) you will see that I mentioned sound hole magnetic pickups for 50 bucks. I assumed you could use a good search engine but here are a couple

 

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/deta...FUqUfgodTDAFog

 

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/deta...FYJqfgodS24Odg

 

I'll bet that if you hunted around evil bay you could find something for even less.

 

Anybody can install one of these, the only tricky part (as I also mentioned) is reaming out the end pin to fit the jack. Some people use twist drills, some use a Uni bit, I happen to have the correct reamer (as your luthier would) and I'd probably charge you a beer to ream the hole if you lived near me. I've also seen people who just leave the cable hanging out on the side of the guitar....

 

Whether that is the sound you want or not only you can decide. You seemed so intent on something like your pictures that I quit trying to show you any options. Btw - back when your budget was a couple of hundred dollars I think there are some very good options

 

Also, if you take the neck pup and controls out of one of your smashed Tele's it would be pretty easy to build a sound hole mount for it. I'd probably charge you a couple of beers for that one.....

 

Well yeah, my budget has kind of changed, I told my luthier I would like a fishman neo-d in the neck of the acoustic without the cable hanging out the guitar and the two volume/tone knobs on the bottom of the guitar. I have changed my mind on the feedback buster because that would really hinder my sound when I'm playing with my buddy without amplifying the guitar although I know I can just take it out, but I think I don't want to pay my luthier to take off my neck and reposition it just to put the pickup right beside the neck like on the epi. Well at first I really liked what the pictures looked like and was going for something like that , but I am always open to hearing about different options man. Seriously not set on the pictures , just a visual image of what I might be going for.

Lol, I wish I had some smashed teles, but that's just a handle I picked , but I'll hold you to that couple beers if I can get to you :>)

 

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He installed a JJB Prestige 330: http://jjb-electronics.com/prestige-330.html. $49.99 shipped for the pickup and $2.99+tax for the reamer: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...esult?q=reamer. Depending on how loud you play, you may need to invest another $8.00 or so in a feedback buster: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/FBR2/. That's under $65 to electrify your guitar.

 

I'm really liking the fishman neo-d pickup right now, but I'll definitely check this one out. I also have to pay the luthier for labor so I'll be paying alittle bit more than just the pickup.

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I actually had played the mental game of how exactly to install a pickup like your pictures. You wouldn't need to remove the neck - simply saw off enough to allow room for whatever pup you chose - lets say 2 or 3 frets (which most acoustic players never use). You certainly do not need to reposition anything.

 

The top under the f/b extension is going to be a mess but you'll want to build or buy a pick up ring anyway - that will cover it. If your guitar has a sound hole truss rod adjuster that would be a deal breaker - otherwise you wound build some sort of structure between the upper transvers brace and the soundhole - I would simply glue a piece of spruce or mahogany in there at least as thick as the pup is tall. Route a cavity (might have to make a special router template to fit the end of the fretboard and mount the pickup just like it was on an electric.

 

Drill two holes in the top for the volume and tone control, add the capacitor and end pin jack and, bingo, instant Epi looking A/E guitar.

 

btw - I'm not sure exactly what reamer that is that DE linked - when I click on "details" it doesn't give any. What you want is to ream all the way thru the end block with an 15/32 hole - that needs to be cylindrical. If that is a 1/2 inch reamer it might work OK but what I use is this

 

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Reamers/Endpin_Jack_Reamer.html

 

Your luthier should have something similar - that is one operation I would have him/her do for you.

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I actually had played the mental game of how exactly to install a pickup like your pictures. You wouldn't need to remove the neck - simply saw off enough to allow room for whatever pup you chose - lets say 2 or 3 frets (which most acoustic players never use). You certainly do not need to reposition anything.

 

The top under the f/b extension is going to be a mess but you'll want to build or buy a pick up ring anyway - that will cover it. If your guitar has a sound hole truss rod adjuster that would be a deal breaker - otherwise you wound build some sort of structure between the upper transvers brace and the soundhole - I would simply glue a piece of spruce or mahogany in there at least as thick as the pup is tall. Route a cavity (might have to make a special router template to fit the end of the fretboard and mount the pickup just like it was on an electric.

 

Drill two holes in the top for the volume and tone control, add the capacitor and end pin jack and, bingo, instant Epi looking A/E guitar.

 

btw - I'm not sure exactly what reamer that is that DE linked - when I click on "details" it doesn't give any. What you want is to ream all the way thru the end block with an 15/32 hole - that needs to be cylindrical. If that is a 1/2 inch reamer it might work OK but what I use is this

 

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Reamers/Endpin_Jack_Reamer.html

 

Your luthier should have something similar - that is one operation I would have him/her do for you.

 

Well my luthier told me I would have to reposition the neck and he would have to take it off. He never suggested the sawing off the 2-3 frets idea, but I really like the idea especially since it sounds alot cheaper, but my luthier probably wants that extra money too, by taking off the neck so that's probably why he suggested it. Unless he just don't feel comfortable sawing off the 2 frets IDK. I'm going to have my luthier do everything for me, I think he qouted me around 200-300$ for the job, IDK if that's good or not, but I would like to bring number down and also suggested a k&k pure mini and told me it would be 120-150$ installed. I did have that kind of money ,but since christmas is right around the corner my budget went down, and I would like to get it done for cheaper than that

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Well my luthier told me I would have to reposition the neck and he would have to take it off. He never suggested the sawing off the 2-3 frets idea, but I really like the idea especially since it sounds alot cheaper, but my luthier probably wants that extra money too, by taking off the neck so that's probably why he suggested it.......

 

Sorry, that makes no sense. If he is going to move the fretboard forward or back towards the soundhole, that simply mucks up the scale length. If he is going to raise or lower it that mucks up the string plane and thus the action. It is possible that he wants to change the neck angle if it happens to be bad, but that is a whole different subject. Basically, if the guitar plays fine now don't touch the neck, just saw off enough fretboard to mount the pup (of course you will loose those top frets but most acoustic players never use them anyway). If I can be so kind I might be a little worried about your "luthier".

 

As I mentioned earlier, if you brought it to my little shop I would charge something like $15 (one half hour or a beer or two) to install a soundhole mag pickup, $30 (one hour) for a K&K Mini or similar soundboard transducer, or $30 to 90 for a Fishman UST style (more because I have to futz with the saddle and setup). I've done enough of these to feel good about those prices. Also in my shop I always measure everything on your guitar before we start so you know if there are any other issues or costs.

 

If someone brought me a guitar to install a pup like the Epi (and if could do it and was willing) I'm guessing about 3 hours of labor - that's a hundred bucks plus the materials. I would not do it if the guitar had much value nor would I do it if the truss rod adjusted in the sound hole.

 

 

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Sorry, that makes no sense. If he is going to move the fretboard forward or back towards the soundhole, that simply mucks up the scale length. If he is going to raise or lower it that mucks up the string plane and thus the action. It is possible that he wants to change the neck angle if it happens to be bad, but that is a whole different subject. Basically, if the guitar plays fine now don't touch the neck, just saw off enough fretboard to mount the pup (of course you will loose those top frets but most acoustic players never use them anyway). If I can be so kind I might be a little worried about your "luthier".

 

As I mentioned earlier, if you brought it to my little shop I would charge something like $15 (one half hour or a beer or two) to install a soundhole mag pickup, $30 (one hour) for a K&K Mini or similar soundboard transducer, or $30 to 90 for a Fishman UST style (more because I have to futz with the saddle and setup). I've done enough of these to feel good about those prices. Also in my shop I always measure everything on your guitar before we start so you know if there are any other issues or costs.

 

If someone brought me a guitar to install a pup like the Epi (and if could do it and was willing) I'm guessing about 3 hours of labor - that's a hundred bucks plus the materials. I would not do it if the guitar had much value nor would I do it if the truss rod adjusted in the sound hole.

 

 

are you located in southeastern Ohio Keller? If so I could maybe bring it to you, if It's not that long of a drive I could possibly do it.

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I'm really liking the fishman neo-d pickup right now, but I'll definitely check this one out. I also have to pay the luthier for labor so I'll be paying alittle bit more than just the pickup.

 

 

 

Installing a JJB 330 or K&K Pure Western Mini are pretty much DIY projects. The biggest risk is gluing yourself to the guitar! Seriously, the instructions are pretty straight forward now. JJB even includes a jig and glue to do the deed. All you need is the dexterity to reach inside the guitar and the ingenuity to use a small mirror (like your wife should have for doing her makeup) to lay inside so that you can check your positioning before breaking open the glue; measure twice before gluing as they say.

 

 

 

Using a $3 hand reamer on the end pin hole was also no big deal. Take it slow and use steady movements and you'll get there. It'll take awhile but once you're done that's it. FWIW JJB also sells a version with a smaller jack IIRC.

 

 

 

BTW, these pickups are microphonic. If you're playing with a full band and need to turn the amp up they WILL feed back - especially if you turn to face the speakers. That's where a preamp really becomes useful, but if you're only playing with another acoustic player you won't even need the preamp unless you have an audience.

 

 

 

FWIW I like these type of pickups because they're microphonic. They will pick up very scrape and click, which makes you more of an honest player and will prompt you to improve your technique. You'll also find that an acoustic guitar can be played percussively because the entire body of the guitar acts as a membrane. With a piezo or magnetic pickup all that playing will do is to make clicking noises.

 

 

 

Besides - even Joe Sareiani once.said screaming into your pickups is cool. Can't do that with a magnetic pickup.

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Installing a JJB 330 or K&K Pure Western Mini are pretty much DIY projects. The biggest risk is gluing yourself to the guitar! Seriously, the instructions are pretty straight forward now. JJB even includes a jig and glue to do the deed. All you need is the dexterity to reach inside the guitar and the ingenuity to use a small mirror (like your wife should have for doing her makeup) to lay inside so that you can check your positioning before breaking open the glue; measure twice before gluing as they say.

 

 

 

Using a $3 hand reamer on the end pin hole was also no big deal. Take it slow and use steady movements and you'll get there. It'll take awhile but once you're done that's it. FWIW JJB also sells a version with a smaller jack IIRC.

 

 

 

BTW, these pickups are microphonic. If you're playing with a full band and need to turn the amp up they WILL feed back - especially if you turn to face the speakers. That's where a preamp really becomes useful, but if you're only playing with another acoustic player you won't even need the preamp unless you have an audience.

 

 

 

FWIW I like these type of pickups because they're microphonic. They will pick up very scrape and click, which makes you more of an honest player and will prompt you to improve your technique. You'll also find that an acoustic guitar can be played percussively because the entire body of the guitar acts as a membrane. With a piezo or magnetic pickup all that playing will do is to make clicking noises.

 

 

 

Besides - even Joe Sareiani once.said screaming into your pickups is cool. Can't do that with a magnetic pickup.

 

I've really thought about a pickup like that since you guy's mentioned it on here. Really considering going that way, I just don't know right now though yet

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are you located in southeastern Ohio Keller? If so I could maybe bring it to you' date=' if It's not that long of a drive I could possibly do it.[/quote']

Sorry, Freeman is in Washington State.

 

. . . btw - I'm not sure exactly what reamer that is that DE linked - when I click on "details" it doesn't give any. What you want is to ream all the way thru the end block with an 15/32 hole - that needs to be cylindrical. If that is a 1/2 inch reamer it might work OK but what I use is this

 

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Reamers/Endpin_Jack_Reamer.html . . .

It's the one on the left, a generic reamer just like the one kwakatak used and essentially like the $20 General Tools brand reamer I own. kwakatak says it worked fine for him and I see no reason why it won't work for the OP. Most of us don't need an $80+ (shipped) reamer often enough to buy one. A tapered reamer plus a halfround file if needed will work just fine.

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A lot of us have a stepped bit, called a Uni bit I think, that will work too. I agree that the SM tool is way expensive but I've probably done a dozen pickup installs now and its more than paid for itself. A guy once brought me an absolutely brand new D-35, it still had the hang tag and the plastic on the pick guard, and said "drill a hole in the butt end of this thing". I only flinched for a moment....

 

I also bought one of these things - sure is a lot easier than threading a coat hanger thru the end pin hole and it lets you pull the jack in and out while you adjust the inside nut for the right spacing

 

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Electronics_and_Pickups/Jack_Installation_Tool.html

 

One last little bit of jack trivia, once you've pulled the jack thru the hole and threaded the washers and nut on it you can put a piece of wire or a small allen wrench thru the cross hole in the end to hold it from rotating while you tighten the nut. SM also sells a tool for this (of course they do) and I bought it (of course I did) but the allen wrench trick works just fine.

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I've really thought about a pickup like that since you guy's mentioned it on here. Really considering going that way, I just don't know right now though yet

 

Here is the K&K installation guide, I'm sure its the same for the JJB

 

http://kksound.com/pdf/puremini.pdf

 

If I had my choice of any pup for an acoustic this would be it. I've even put them in a couple of guitars that I've built even tho the owners said they would never plug in. There was no way to get back inside this archtop after the back went on so I put it in while I could

 

IMG_1617_zps2a6ca430.jpg

 

 

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Sorry, Freeman is in Washington State.

 

 

It's the one on the left, a generic reamer just like the one kwakatak used and essentially like the $20 General Tools brand reamer I own. kwakatak says it worked fine for him and I see no reason why it won't work for the OP. Most of us don't need an $80+ (shipped) reamer often enough to buy one. A tapered reamer plus a halfround file if needed will work just fine.

 

Yes, even though it was tapered I proceeded slowly at first out of caution. It required a bit of effort to push into it - and at one point I discovered that it fit into my power drill so I threw caution to the wind - but for $3 the reamer was much like its owner: not the sharpest tool in the toolbox, so it required a bit of ingenuity and panache courtesy of some Liquid Courage.

 

Sorry: PUI.

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Here is the K&K installation guide, I'm sure its the same for the JJB

 

http://kksound.com/pdf/puremini.pdf

 

If I had my choice of any pup for an acoustic this would be it. I've even put them in a couple of guitars that I've built even tho the owners said they would never plug in. There was no way to get back inside this archtop after the back went on so I put it in while I could

 

IMG_1617_zps2a6ca430.jpg

 

 

So many people say so many great thing's about the K&K pure mini. I mean it just seems like the way to go really, although the price tag on it, makes me think twice, but such a awesome sounding little pickup from what I hear.

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So many people say so many great thing's about the K&K pure mini. I mean it just seems like the way to go really' date=' although the price tag on it, makes me think twice, but such a awesome sounding little pickup from what I hear. [/quote']

Once again, the JJB Prestige 330 is essentially the same except it costs half as much: http://jjb-electronics.com/prestige-330.html.

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I only have experience with the K&K and it has always impressed me, however the JJB is probably fine too. Warning - its going to sound way different from the mag pickups that you have been looking at - I think that in one of my early posts I asked what kind of sound you were looking for (rather than just "loud")

 

Here are the comments of one of the finest Martin techs around - I respect his opinions highly

 

http://www.bryankimsey.com/kkpups/index.htm

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Once again, the JJB Prestige 330 is essentially the same except it costs half as much: http://jjb-electronics.com/prestige-330.html.

 

Aww dude I love that pickup and it's in my pricerange too. I have a couple questions. Would this sound better than the fishman neo--d? Can I still hook up volume/tone knobs on the bottom of the guitar like I would like it? And what mm would I need for my fender acoustic?

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Piezo plastic generates electricity when in contact with a vibrating surface such as your guitars top or bridge plate beneath the bridge inside the guitar. Unfortunately, Piezo doesn't care where the vibrations come from and can be from a loudspeaker sending frequencies across the room into the top of your guitar. These frequencies, will "report" their presence to your amplifier in the form of feedback. Hence the soundhole plug, aka feedback buster, that stops stray frequencies from entering your guitar and reflecting back on the top from within. it can't stop them from direct absorption into the outside surface of your guitars top, though, but they do contribute some to attenuate stray frequencies. This Pieze plastic is commercially used in the soundboard transducers (SBTs) and under-saddle transducers (USTs) to sense and transmit the vibrations from those positions to a preamp and then on to the main amp. The electrical signals Piezo generates are small and therefore need to be preamplified before reaching your main amp, which is not typically designed to receive such small signals and faithfully render them without some noise. Hence the preamp.

 

UST and SBT transducers pick up the actual vibration of the wood surfaces in your guitar and send them along the signal chain. Again, these vibrations can be generated by your own input from playing or received from other noise sources in the room. Your guitar is simply an antenna picking up frequencies no different that the one on your car. As such, the UST and SBT are the best sources for sound reproduction of your guitar and the worst for painting all manner of noise on top of that sound from ambient noise.

 

I have the K&K Pure Western Mini (PWM) in one guitar plugged into the same company's on-board Pure Preamp. Generally speaking, its just okay.

 

Freeman's image of the one he installed shows a neat little fitment that isn't necessarily ideal for the guitar he's got it installed in. It's simply installed per the instructions provided by the company, which makes the package marketable to the DIY crowd, thereby increasing sales, but isn't exactly ideal placement. It's made to be DIY as depicted but the three separate Piezo transducers ("bugs") may have better physical locations on the guitar for the frequency ranges (low-med-hi) than the length of wire connecting them will allow for. The individual wire leads could be made longer allowing the installer to temporarily place each bug on the outer surface of the guitar in his search for the sweet spot for each of the three frequency ranges. Once found, he merely needs to fit them to the same location on the underside of the guitar's top. Make sense?

 

The PWM in my guitar, installed per the maker's set of instructions, gives a weak treble response. I've ruled out the preamp and the main amp. My guitar does not have a weak treble response, acoustically speaking. But, the spot the treble bug is installed on in my guitar is not the sweet spot the guitar can give for trebles. That bug needs to be cut out of the harness, a new bug spliced in and located to a better spot for the trebles.

 

As you can see, the installation isn't and shouldn't be a quick wham-bam-thankyou ma'am idiot proof DIY method the maker purports it to be. It should be installed with much more thought and precision placement but the device, as made, is not suited to that because of the short leads. Fail. If I was to use the same device again - basically a good concept - I'd fabricate my own harness for each of the bugs and go from there. That's not exactly DIY anymore for most people unfamiliar with soldering, splicing, shielding and insulating experience.. Better off buying Piezo sheeting and laminating your own bugs at that point. Oh, and Piezo, because it is so sensitive to vibration, can distort large frequencies from playing hard.

 

Moving right along...

 

Magnetic pick-ups, as stated by Freeman, simply detect the "disturbances in the force". Yep, that's where Star Wars pilfered the expression from. Magnetic lines of flux, induced by a copper winding wrapped around an iron core, surround the iron core and lie at rest, so to speak. When another body of iron content (guitar string) moves within that magnetic flux "field" the lines distort and this distortion is what is sent along the signal chain to the amplifier. Strings, at rest and undisturbed, will not disturb the field but they can cause a bend in it by their mere presence. This is filtered out of the signal chain in modern "humbucking" pickups, which the later magnetic soundhole pickups are.

 

The mag soundhole pick-up (Mag Pup) will not detect the true sound of the wood vibrating in your guitar. It can't. It cannot detect anything but the movement of an iron bearing material located within its localized flux field. Therefore, the original guitar you sample in your first post is not an acoustic electric. It's an electric guitar only with the option of being acoustic when unplugged. Ad papers will sport and speak of acoustic-electric and that's actually the truth. Unplugged, they're acoustic. Plugged, they're electric. Many people get confused and expect the acoustic sound to be amplified by the mag pups fitted to them. Don't be confused. It's one or the other, acoustic or electric.

 

These days, if you want to compromise, the mag pups are sporting circuitry that models the sound of an acoustic. Strap one to a cinder block strung up with strings and you'll get the same sound your own guitar puts out. They're called modeling pups, on the street, but the ad papers for them disillusion the not-so-well-read customers. They actually think the pup is sending the sound of their guitars to the amp. Not so. It's sending a signal designed to mimic an acoustic guitar and nothing more.

 

Dual source systems, like the Baggs' microphone and UST, can be blended to best pick up the player's notion of what he wants to hear. It's the better choice because in high ambient noise conditions the UST can be blended out. That would prevent much to the UST's habit of providing feedback noise. Other dual source systems exist that combine mics, SBTs and/or USTs. SBTs are more prone to feedback that any type of source because they're fitted directly to the source of vibration - the guitar's top.

 

If I were you I'd get a cheap modeling mag pup, forget the nostalgic knob look, completely dodge the feedback potential of SBT and UST pups and get great results. Your audience won't know it isn't your guitar's sound faithfully reproduced, nor will they care. The only time the modeling pups start sounding electric is in the treble ranges up the neck. I had one permanently installed in a dreadnaught, in the identical manner DeepEnd illustrates above, and it worked very well.

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Aww dude I love that pickup and it's in my pricerange too. I have a couple questions. Would this sound better than the fishman neo--d? Can I still hook up volume/tone knobs on the bottom of the guitar like I would like it? And what mm would I need for my fender acoustic?

Whether it would sound "better" to your ears is unknown. Again, listen to a few pickups and decide what you like: http://www.dougyoungguitar.com/pickuptests/. You can probably add volume/tone pots but you'll have to choose different pots than you'd use with a magnetic pickup. As for what size piezo disks, I don't know. You never told us what model your Fender is. JJB's web site says the 15mm version is good for guitars with solid tops and the 20mm version is good for guitars wilt laminated tops. Which do you have? I don't know. IMHO, your best bet is to install a Neo D since it will give you the electric sound of the guitar in your first post and not worry about adding volume/tone pots. Make your adjustments at the amp.

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