Members Stevenglass Posted July 17, 2011 Members Share Posted July 17, 2011 Just as a reference, i dive bomb my {censored} for the luls sometimes and i ALWAYS go back to 100 percent perfect tune Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Pewtershmit Posted July 17, 2011 Members Share Posted July 17, 2011 The best thing i have found to keep ANY guitar in tune is number 2 pencil lead in the nut, the tremolo so the graphite spreads evenly. Sorry, i don't know if this has been posted yet Or just get a graphtec nut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Stevenglass Posted July 17, 2011 Members Share Posted July 17, 2011 Pencils are 30 cents for like 500. It feels good to work on your guitar to me. Worth it more then a new nut. Naw mean 'brooh'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Stevenglass Posted July 17, 2011 Members Share Posted July 17, 2011 HAHA HEY PEWTERSHMIT OUR AVATARS ARE MAKING THE SAME FACE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Pewtershmit Posted July 17, 2011 Members Share Posted July 17, 2011 Pencils are 30 cents for like 500. It feels good to work on your guitar to me. Worth it more then a new nut. Naw mean 'brooh'? {censored}in DIYER over puttin pencil on his nuts. Better tone and tuning> putting pencil on your plastic nut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Stevenglass Posted July 17, 2011 Members Share Posted July 17, 2011 That's why i don't want a new nut, different tone, i like my tone. The pencil works just fine so why change anything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members companyman Posted July 17, 2011 Author Members Share Posted July 17, 2011 The best thing i have found to keep ANY guitar in tune is number 2 pencil lead in the nut, the tremolo so the graphite spreads evenly. Sorry, i don't know if this has been posted yet yeah, I make a paste with petroleum jelly and 9B graphite (much softer than #2 graphite)for the nut-slots, do it with every string change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members companyman Posted July 25, 2011 Author Members Share Posted July 25, 2011 okay, I have been setting up this strat and it has been slow going, mostly because of my ineptitude. The action was really high when I got it. I have tightened the springs, set the intonation, and adjusted the saddles so there isn't string buzz or choking out above the 12th fret, the nut wasn't cut deep enough so I put a capo on the first fret, then measured the distance between the string and the fretboard behind the capo. I then deepened the nut slots to the same distance. The action is still a bit high, not bad up high and down low, but around the 7th-11th fret it is still uncomfortably high....the question is do I need to adjust the truss-rod to fix this? If so, do I want to tighten it, or loosen it? Thanks for any input, I am a strat noob, and can't afford a tech at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Moustache_Bash Posted July 25, 2011 Members Share Posted July 25, 2011 Truss rod isn't really for action. It's more there just to keep the neck straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RUExp? Posted July 25, 2011 Members Share Posted July 25, 2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RUExp? Posted July 25, 2011 Members Share Posted July 25, 2011 This a really helpful book to have. http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Guitar-Great-Softcover-Player/dp/0879306017/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311563380&sr=8-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members companyman Posted July 25, 2011 Author Members Share Posted July 25, 2011 Thanks RUExp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Strat vibrato bridges never seem to work well for me when I have them set up to "float", so I always set mine to sit flat against the body, even when strung up to pitch. I do a lot of bent notes against a held / unbent note, and I hate it when the unbent note goes flat due to the change in bridge position. Cranking that puppy down or blocking it will cure that. There are two things (besides actually inserting a block) that you can try: First, try tightening the claw hook - tightening the two screws so that it moves closer to the body and further away from the bridge / trem block. That causes the existing springs to stretch and increases the tension, moving the back of the bridge down and flat against the top of the guitar. If you use light strings (9's or 10's), doing this with a three spring setup might be all you need. If you're running heavier strings, you may need to increase the spring count to five to achieve the same end result. Here's a picture of the spring cavity on a 95 Am Std Strat to illustrate. Just tighten down the two screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members companyman Posted July 25, 2011 Author Members Share Posted July 25, 2011 Strat vibrato bridges never seem to work well for me when I have them set up to "float", so I always set mine to sit flat against the body, even when strung up to pitch. I do a lot of bent notes against a held / unbent note, and I hate it when the unbent note goes flat due to the change in bridge position. Cranking that puppy down or blocking it will cure that. There are two things (besides actually inserting a block) that you can try: First, try tightening the claw hook - tightening the two screws so that it moves closer to the body and further away from the bridge / trem block. That causes the existing springs to stretch and increases the tension, moving the back of the bridge down and flat against the top of the guitar. If you use light strings (9's or 10's), doing this with a three spring setup might be all you need. If you're running heavier strings, you may need to increase the spring count to five to achieve the same end result. Thanks Phil! I already have the spring-claw tightened as far as it will go, ( have .010's on it) the action is still a bit high in the middle of the neck, like from the 7th-11th fret. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil O'Keefe Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Thanks Phil! I already have the spring-claw tightened as far as it will go, ( have .010's on it) the action is still a bit high in the middle of the neck, like from the 7th-11th fret. Sounds like you might have a bit of a bow going on. If you do, a truss rod adjustment would be in order. However, I don't like recommending messing with that unless you know what you're doing. If you DO decide to adjust, remember one very important thing: It doesn't take much, and you should never have to turn that puppy more than 1/4 turn. If you have to turn it more than that, take it to a good tech. You really don't want to snap the truss rod by over-tightening it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members companyman Posted July 25, 2011 Author Members Share Posted July 25, 2011 Sounds like you might have a bit of a bow going on. If you do, a truss rod adjustment would be in order. However, I don't like recommending messing with that unless you know what you're doing. If you DO decide to adjust, remember one very important thing: It doesn't take much, and you should never have to turn that puppy more than 1/4 turn. If you have to turn it more than that, take it to a good tech. You really don't want to snap the truss rod by over-tightening it... I have made truss-rod adjustments on other guitars before so I am ultra cautious, so I should tighten it a bit I guess, I'll give it a shot tomorrow, thanks again Phil! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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