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Hey Strat Guys....


companyman

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...what works better for tuning stability, putting more springs in, or blocking? I got my first Strat yesterday, just a 20th Anniversary Squire, needed something really cheap, this was the best option. I hate the trem systems on Strats, so I am looking for the easiest best solution for tuning stability. I'm planning on getting a GFS loaded pickguard soon to improve the sound a bit.....

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The bridge isn't really a big deal obv the less it moves the less the strings will bind at the nut.

 

May I suggest getting a tusq nut professionally cut and installed and as long as the tuners are deece you'll be made in le shade. It makes a HUGE difference, sound and tuning wise.

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The bridge isn't really a big deal obv the less it moves the less the strings will bind at the nut.


May I suggest getting a tusq nut professionally cut and installed and as long as the tuners are deece you'll be made in le shade. It makes a HUGE difference, sound and tuning wise.

 

 

oddly enough, the nut is cut really well, kinda makes me doubt it is original. It had .009's on it when I got it, holy {censored}, how does anyone play with them? I had .011's on my last guitar, and I can't play a note properly at all, they feel like thread!

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oddly enough, the nut is cut really well, kinda makes me doubt it is original. It had .009's on it when I got it, holy {censored}, how does anyone play with them? I had .011's on my last guitar, and I can't play a note properly at all, they feel like thread!

 

 

Squiers are good guitars believe it or not - I doubt it's a new nut.

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yeah, I played all of the sub-$100 guitars in Music-Go-Round, and this was the most resonant one of the bunch (I always play electrics unplugged to find the most resonant wood) I am kinda surprised at the quality, it is made in Indonesia. I said to myself before going in the store, "use your ears, not your eyes and preconceived opinions of brand and origin" . The .009's didn't help with the sound, I really can't even play them, and the pickups aren't great, thus the idea of a loaded pickguard from GFS, they are really cheap and have great reviews.

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Don't buy the ones that don't have gfs pickups in them though - I got a gfs loaded pickugard (cheapest ones possible) - I never heard the pickups but the quality was crap. It wasn't even cut properly. I don't know if other ones are better. I would just buy some gfs pickups maybe?

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Get a new one though. They are plastic.

 

 

yeah, I am absolutely broke(unemployed)... sold off all my good gear and replaced it with the Squier and a Sunn Alpha that a cool dude gave me off of craigslist, and a couple DOD pedals. I usually replace the nuts on all of my new guitars with bone ones, and a pro set-up, won't be happening on this one.

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also, is it bad to take all of the strings off at the same time to clean the fretboard, change strings etc.? I have always had stoptails or Telecasters.

 

 

On my Strat, thats the way I always do it. Never had a problem.

But you DO NOT want to do that with a floating bridge. Like Floyd Rose, Or the Ibanez ones.

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Don't buy the ones that don't have gfs pickups in them though - I got a gfs loaded pickugard (cheapest ones possible) - I never heard the pickups but the quality was crap. It wasn't even cut properly. I don't know if other ones are better. I would just buy some gfs pickups maybe?

 

 

good to know, thanks! I was looking at the black/white/black loaded with GFS Alnico's, under $50. The guitar is Olympic White that has yellowed some, rosewood fretboard. The idea of trying to figure out the wiring of a Strat blows my mind, I am a simpleton.

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If you're not going to use the vibrato at all then put all the springs in or block it. But, the Strat I've played that had the best tuning stability when using the bar had the bridge floating about 1/2" up from the body. I was amazed at how it stayed in tune even with heavy diving.

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If you're not going to use the vibrato at all then put all the springs in or block it. But, the Strat I've played that had the best tuning stability when using the bar had the bridge floating about 1/2" up from the body. I was amazed at how it stayed in tune even with heavy diving.

 

 

I am generally not a trem bar type of player, though I did enjoy the maestro on my Epi Firebird VII once in a while. It came with 3 springs installed, when you say 1/2" up from the body, do you mean on top of the guitar? to loosen the bridge, do I have to unscrew the screws on the bridge-plate under the strings, along with loosening the spring-claw screws? Sorry, total Strat noob here:facepalm:

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I am generally not a trem bar type of player, though I did enjoy the maestro on my Epi Firebird VII once in a while. It came with 3 springs installed, when you say 1/2" up from the body, do you mean on top of the guitar?
to loosen the bridge, do I have to unscrew the screws on the bridge-plate under the strings, along with loosening the spring-claw screws?
Sorry, total Strat noob here:facepalm:

 

 

No you just adjust the big screws that hold the claw. The back end of the bridge will lift up.

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No you just adjust the big screws that hold the claw. The back end of the bridge will lift up.

 

 

what are the screws on the bridgeplate, under the strings for? Just to hold the plate on the body? The sales guy told me if I wanted to use the trem, that I should loosen those screws a bit....I thought it sounded weird.

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The trem pivots on those six screws tightening them will make the trem stiffer, but generally I wouldn't touch them. Just add some springs and get the bridge flat against the body, then when you can get a new nut. Trust me, the nut is the most important part for tuning stability here.

How the bridge is situated isn't really going to affect tuning stability, it's just personal preferance

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what are the screws on the bridgeplate, under the strings for? Just to hold the plate on the body? The sales guy told me if I wanted to use the trem, that I should loosen those screws a bit....I thought it sounded weird.

 

 

Those screws hold the block and the bridge plate together.

 

Unless you mean the screws at the front near the pickup. The bridge pivots on those screws.

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