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Solder thickness for pedal and guitar building


hangwire

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It doesn't really matter what the thickness is per se. The thicker it is the more time/heat it'll take and you'll get more solder everywhere, but it'll still do the same thing. The 63/37 is the ratio of lead to tin, I believe. That has more lead than the standard 60/40 stuff so it'll melt a lot easier. I've seen people rave about 63/37 at diystompboxes.org, but I only buy solder from radioshack so I've only tried 60/40.

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Thickness is a matter of preference for the type of solder joints you'll be making. Solder joints that require a lot of solder require less feeding when using thicker solder. Personally, I find that 0.032 works well for pretty much everything pedal related, but is a little on the thin side for soldering wires to pot cans in a guitar (for example). 0.050 will work ok for most solder joints, but you might find it's a little thick if you're trying to solder a very small joint on PC board.

 

63/37 is called the "eutectic ratio". This alloy goes almost immediately from solid to liquid as it heats up, and from liquid to solid as it cools down. Other ratio alloys pass through a pasty phase, where they're not quite liquid and not quite solid as they heat or cool. As long as the joint doesn't move while it's cooling then 60/40 is fine.

 

The type of flux can be important, as well. Highly activated flux (called "RA") can eat up soldering iron tips pretty quickly, and must be cleaned from the solder joint afterward as it's pretty corrosive. Mildly activated flux ("RMA") is the same, only less so. I like no-clean fluxes ("NC") wen soldering new components. It's not nearly as aggressive as activated fluxes, but it doesn't need to be if the conductors are clean and new, and it can safely be left on the solder joint after without corroding anything, though I clean it off of circuit boards anyway because it just looks better. :)

 

Long ass post by amp_surgeon in 3 2 1......

 

If you had any idea what I just said then you would have said it yourself. Don't you have some aluminum boxes to drill? :rolleyes:

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What's up with water soluble solder? I've been using it lately because there is a fat rat's nest of it at school. I have to say I like working with it. When it melts it's more like a paste, than a liquid.

 

It's the flux core that's water soluble. It was developed back in the 1980's when there was a strong push to get away from using fluorocarbon solvents in the electronics industry because they wreak havoc with the ozone layer. A lot of companies were getting rid of their vapor degreasers and replacing them with aqueous cleaning systems, so a flux that would dissolve in water was needed. Sounds like your school is thinking green! :thu:

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