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Soldered patch cables or solderless?


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What christianatl said +1


The straight lava ends are a joke. You can easily pull them right off. It can look super clean having everything measured out perfectly but it is a weak link in the chain and you know what they say about
weak links. They sink ships
.

 

you mean loose lips sink ships

 

loose_lips_by_stuntkid.jpg

 

i'd just go with the manual route and buy some nice quality cable as well as some quality pancake 1/4'' plugs and solder them to your specifications

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you mean loose lips sink ships


loose_lips_by_stuntkid.jpg

i'd just go with the manual route and buy some nice quality cable as well as some quality pancake 1/4'' plugs and solder them to your specifications

 

This is the route I am leaning towards. Part of why I think it's best is because I need a couple of custom lengths.

 

I was going to have my cables done at a local store but I realized it would cost more to do that than to do it myself not to mention if I might be able to get a more durable alternative.

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i dont feel like you could go wrong with either. i feel like there's a certain threshold of cable quality at which one stops noticeably hearing a difference. i'd say it starts around the mogami level of quality.

 

 

by that i mean, i noticed a huge difference upgrading from cheap hosa's to george l's. i dont think i would hear as huge of a difference going from george l to monorail.

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I use george l's and had a cap unscrew on me one time, i think it was because i wasnt using the plactic cap covers. after that I used the covers all the time and i have not had a problem since.

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No idea what you mean by this. Over heating the joint?

 

Yup :(

 

For example, wiring a 3pdt where I am pressing the soldering tip to the lug and the wire and then move the solder in, and I get a lump of solder sitting on both parts but they are not joined- then I try again pressing the tip longer against both lug and wire, and solder added and it melts, but the wire and lug are still loose enough to move and the solder is lumped on one or the other part--- then move the soldering tip in again and wait longer and the solder breaks up- and the new added solder creates a candy nugget looking lump and they are finally secure- but after it us all done the switch is all not functioning and I get a weird feedback loop whistling noise instead of the desired effect.

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Yup
:(

For example, wiring a 3pdt where I am pressing the soldering tip to the lug and the wire and then move the solder in, and I get a lump of solder sitting on both parts but they are not joined- then I try again pressing the tip longer against both lug and wire, and solder added and it melts, but the wire and lug are still loose enough to move and the solder is lumped on one or the other part--- then move the soldering tip in again and wait longer and the solder breaks up- and the new added solder creates a candy nugget looking lump and they are finally secure- but after it us all done the switch is all not functioning and I get a weird feedback loop whistling noise instead of the desired effect.

 

Ah ok. Well for shiot I fele I might fuck up on I pre solder a connect point. Say like on a pot, I will apply solder to the connection, let that cool. Get the pick up wire or cap or whatever the fuck I am going to solder, re heat the conenction put wire through and hold completely still. I have no idea if this a good thing to do, but I more so than not, have a perfect solder job and no cold joint. This way you're not holding solder the wire and the soldering all at once. Two steps and I am done. But I don't know if this is good form or not. I assume there isn't anything wrong with it since I haven't had any issues yet.

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Yup
:(

For example, wiring a 3pdt where I am pressing the soldering tip to the lug and the wire and then move the solder in, and I get a lump of solder sitting on both parts but they are not joined- then I try again pressing the tip longer against both lug and wire, and solder added and it melts, but the wire and lug are still loose enough to move and the solder is lumped on one or the other part--- then move the soldering tip in again and wait longer and the solder breaks up- and the new added solder creates a candy nugget looking lump and they are finally secure- but after it us all done the switch is all not functioning and I get a weird feedback loop whistling noise instead of the desired effect.

 

if you're heating both at the same time and then adding solder... it should flow over both parts and make a connection. what wattage iron are you using? the added solder not blending with the old solder suggests that your iron isn't hot enough.

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I went to lowe's and got a Weller. Seems to hold up a whole lot better than the RadioShack model. Will work just fine for cables and other basic jobs.

 

 

Krallum swears by Weller. My radio shack soldering iron was good for two guitars worth of pick ups installations. Then the tip started to get loose and {censored}. {censored} radio shack.

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