Members Raucous Pimp Posted August 4, 2008 Members Share Posted August 4, 2008 Im gonna bang a pair of vintage 30s in my cab, is there anything else i can do to improve it? like soldering the wires and replacing anything? Sorry if theres a thread about this but i couldnt find owt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members matterday Posted August 4, 2008 Members Share Posted August 4, 2008 Rub some caulk in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ron Burgandy Posted August 4, 2008 Members Share Posted August 4, 2008 I find the best way to make a 1960 cab sound good is to plug a righteous Marshall into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Blackwater Posted August 4, 2008 Members Share Posted August 4, 2008 Scott Splawn moded my 1960. Birch Back panel with Neutrik connectors. New wiring. I put G1230H's in her. Metal handles. Locking wheels...new tolex and grill cloth. Sounds absolutely amazing. Blows my Standard 1960 out of the water in ever way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Raucous Pimp Posted August 4, 2008 Author Members Share Posted August 4, 2008 I take it the caulk goes on the inside joins? I gave up on Marshall after blowing trannys in my EL34100/100 3 times but I wil own a Superbass one day! Birch ply i take it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Uncle_Milton Posted August 4, 2008 Members Share Posted August 4, 2008 Rub some caulk in it. is this where I'm supposed to say "that's what she said"? i'm not very good at the innuendo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members paintkilz Posted August 4, 2008 Members Share Posted August 4, 2008 i need to get a birch ply back panel for my 78' slant im refinishing..then one on it is nasty fiberboard. once i get that and the handles shes done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Norton666 Posted August 4, 2008 Members Share Posted August 4, 2008 I find the best way to make a 1960 cab sound good is to plug a righteous Marshall into it. +100000000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members the_bleeding Posted August 4, 2008 Members Share Posted August 4, 2008 caulking goes on all of the inside seams to make it airtight. Get heavier wire gauge. 12-14 awg is a good range. Don't go larger than 12 awg unless you're a pro at soldering. Now the fun part, get some eggcarton foam, or some sort of foam, home depot has it. You want to foam at the very least the back panel, but if you want to tighten it up even more, foam the walls too. do not foam the baffle (part the speakres are attached to). thats all you should really need. If you want to go hardcore, andd are good at carpentry: you will notice that the jackplate is not airtight, even when theres plugs in it. You can build a wooden box around the jackplate and seal it with caulking. Make sure to leave a hole for the wires to get through the box, and caulk that shut too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members zoomzilla Posted August 4, 2008 Members Share Posted August 4, 2008 I caulked the front baffle on my 1960BX, I also rewired with some monster cable speaker wire I had laying around. I did not caulk the handles or mess with the back. You could if you wanted to, but I think that caulking the front baffle should be enough. Make sure all your screws are tight and resolder the speakers. Mine came with 22 guage wire (It looked to be that small) and quick connects. I ripped that crap out and wired with decent wire. It should help. If you are replacing speakers, why not rewire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jeid2000 Posted August 5, 2008 Members Share Posted August 5, 2008 Will the foam on the back make it tighter yeah? I might try this. Need to see if I can get some metal handles(do they make any real difference?) and a better back panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mavesicles Posted August 5, 2008 Members Share Posted August 5, 2008 I caulked every side of mine. Appears to be more mids, and even some more low end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Zozobra Posted August 5, 2008 Members Share Posted August 5, 2008 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mavesicles Posted August 5, 2008 Members Share Posted August 5, 2008 Also, make sure every screw inside is tight, except for the speaker bolts, which should only be hand tight as to not warp the speaker basket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members marshallnoise Posted August 5, 2008 Members Share Posted August 5, 2008 Good thread. I will be doing this to my JCM800 cab too. Need the birch back badly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members chad_sux Posted August 5, 2008 Members Share Posted August 5, 2008 Will the foam on the back make it tighter yeah? I might try this.Need to see if I can get some metal handles(do they make any real difference?) and a better back panel. I can't imagine it makes a difference in sound, but the quality is much much much better. Plus, if you bump the handle's corner it won't break off like the plastic ones can. That right there is a bonus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members chad_sux Posted August 5, 2008 Members Share Posted August 5, 2008 Scott Splawn moded my 1960. Birch Back panel with Neutrik connectors. New wiring. I put G1230H's in her. Metal handles. Locking wheels...new tolex and grill cloth. Sounds absolutely amazing. Blows my Standard 1960 out of the water in ever way! I gotta ask you, how much did it cost for the mods on the cab (without the speakers obviously)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ryan Turner Posted August 5, 2008 Members Share Posted August 5, 2008 My biggest suggestion is to add a new screw to the back panel where the middle support in the cab meets it. My old 1960AC (the slant front, black grille cloth and Greenbacks model) use to fart out all the time with my old Marshall DSL 50 when I got it up to a certain volume. The sound was due to the back panel vibrating against the middle support in the cab. A thin pad or peice of leather also helps. My Mojo 4x12 has a piece of leather riveted to the middle support to prevent this vibration. Also, a birch plywood back panel in place of the MDF back panel helps tighten up the cab as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members wanky Posted August 5, 2008 Members Share Posted August 5, 2008 Im gonna bang a pair of vintage 30s in my cab, is there anything else i can do to improve it? like soldering the wires and replacing anything? Sorry if theres a thread about this but i couldnt find owt consider WGS's veteran 30 its cheaper and a lota ppl say it sounds better, like it has the strong points of the v30, good warmth while retaining tightness and a vibrant upper end, but its the perfected version with the ice picking spike in the upper mids smoothed out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members zoomzilla Posted August 5, 2008 Members Share Posted August 5, 2008 I may consider picking up a pair of those WGS Veteran 30's to go along with my Greenbacks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Raucous Pimp Posted August 5, 2008 Author Members Share Posted August 5, 2008 Cheers for the help looks like its DIY time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Raucous Pimp Posted August 5, 2008 Author Members Share Posted August 5, 2008 Im in the UK and I cant find Veterans over here. Also the birch ply is fairly expensive and I can only find twice as much as I need, obviously I could make two new backs and try and flog one but I can get some Marine ply for free, will this do the trick? I belive this is what Orange cabs are made of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members greg apocalypse Posted August 5, 2008 Members Share Posted August 5, 2008 ...except for the speaker bolts, which should only be hand tight as to not warp the speaker basket. The screws holding the speakers to the baffle? Really? I did not know this, I don't think I've ever had trouble with it though.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mavesicles Posted August 5, 2008 Members Share Posted August 5, 2008 The screws holding the speakers to the baffle? Really?I did not know this, I don't think I've ever had trouble with it though.. The bolts, yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.