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bigsbys.... please school me


sleewell

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you guys know i'm loving the starla to death, such an excellent guitar. but prior to me owning it the bigsby was removed and am wondering if i should put one back on since the holes are already there? i have never owned a guitar with a bigsby so please help a noob out.

pros / cons?

i am not sure how much i would use it. how is the tuning stability? would it change how the guitar sounds, if so how?

thanks,

bill

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I added one to an SG. I had the nut filed properly and put a roller bridge on and the thing is a rock when it comes to tuning. Stays in tune as well with it as without. Didn't change the sound much if any that I can tell. I put an oversized spring in it so it has more range than you'll typically get with a Bigsby. Won't divebomb, but the low E string will detune down to Bb, which is pretty decent for all but the most radical whammy work.

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thanks for the replies so far, keep em coming!!


i am really leaning that way, the guitar is pretty light right now so i think it should be fine. i do like the vintage/pawn shop shiek look more with the bigsby and if i end up using it more than i think that would just be icing on the cake. i just wanted to make sure the tuning stability would still be there and it wouldnt change the tone, those are the things i love about the guitar right now.

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Quote Originally Posted by sleewell

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thanks for the replies so far, keep em coming!!


i am really leaning that way, the guitar is pretty light right now so i think it should be fine. i do like the vintage/pawn shop shiek look more with the bigsby and if i end up using it more than i think that would just be icing on the cake. i just wanted to make sure the tuning stability would still be there and it wouldnt change the tone, those are the things i love about the guitar right now.

 

Think about it this way.


Would Kevin Shields sound the same if he didn't play with the Jazzmaster trem arm in his hand at all times?


I didn't think so. Plus, the added ambience of those long strings behind the bridge is what makes the sound. Put on the {censored}ing Bigsby! mad.gif

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Quote Originally Posted by sleewell

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thanks for the replies so far, keep em coming!!


i am really leaning that way, the guitar is pretty light right now so i think it should be fine. i do like the vintage/pawn shop shiek look more with the bigsby and if i end up using it more than i think that would just be icing on the cake. i just wanted to make sure the tuning stability would still be there and it wouldnt change the tone, those are the things i love about the guitar right now.

 

The key to the tuning stability is making sure the strings don't bind or snag at the nut and bridge. Graphtech works wonders at both ends but any good material (NOT plastic) nut should work if it's slotted (and, if needed, polished) properly. And Graphtech saddles or a roller bridge really helps at the tail -- the nice thing about Graphtech is they make saddles that fit a ton of existed bridge hardware.


Tone isn't going to change significantly, certainly not enough to overcome the variations in how we perceive sound based on our environment.

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Quote Originally Posted by Cougar Hunter

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Think about it this way.


Would Kevin Shields sound the same if he didn't play with the Jazzmaster trem arm in his hand at all times?


I didn't think so. Plus, the added ambience of those long strings behind the bridge is what makes the sound. Put on the {censored}ing Bigsby! mad.gif

 

So that is what I'm hearing! My ex-bandmate had an Electromatic Gretsch that has a Bigsby, and while it was a pain in the ass to stretch/tune when replacing strings, the sound was perfect for some of the old songs.


If only she let me put 10s in there instead of those rubber band 9s...

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Yep, and if the volume/gain is too much, put a piece of foam under the strings.


One more thing: Re: string changes: there's a trick to it. It seems like you need a third hand, but the trick is to take half of a wooden clothes pin and stick some felt onto it. Wedge it under the ball. It holds the ball in place on the bar. If you can't picture this, google it.

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I'll agree with everything everyone has said here... make sure your nut is filled and set up properly and either get a roller bridge or a graphtech bridge. I have a graphtech bridge and nut on my bigsby equipped guitar along with locking tuners which add to the tuning stability BUT also makes stringing the guitar MUCH easier with the bigsby, I don't need to use a capo to string mine up.

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They suck to string until you get used to them. After that it's nothing. They hold tune better than any other trem (duh) and I think they're easier to manipulate. I sold my last SG after I talked myself out of a Bigsby. The only real benefit is that I got full resale out of the SG.


Now that the SG Standards are going to have half as much pick guard I will probably do another SG and put a Bigsby on it. I'd put one on my Flying V if it wouldn't hang half way off of the damn thing.

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Quote Originally Posted by Cougar Hunter

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Yep, and if the volume/gain is too much, put a piece of foam under the strings.


One more thing: Re: string changes: there's a trick to it. It seems like you need a third hand, but the trick is to take half of a wooden clothes pin and stick some felt onto it. Wedge it under the ball. It holds the ball in place on the bar. If you can't picture this, google it.

 


I just make a right angle bend by the ball and hold the string tight while tightening. No issues.


idn_smilie.gif

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Quote Originally Posted by Marc G

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I'll agree with everything everyone has said here... make sure your nut is filled and set up properly and either get a roller bridge or a graphtech bridge. I have a graphtech bridge and nut on my bigsby equipped guitar along with locking tuners which add to the tuning stability BUT also makes stringing the guitar MUCH easier with the bigsby, I don't need to use a capo to string mine up.

 


FWIW, I don't think locking tuners are necessary.


I've never found any locking tuners I like.


You will be perfectly happy with non-locking tuners, but feel free to try locking tuners. I just think it's $50-$100 extra that doesn't need to be spent. (Plus, I've had some bad luck with Sperzels, especially used ones where the threads are completely wrecked)

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Quote Originally Posted by Cougar Hunter

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FWIW, I don't think locking tuners are necessary.


I've never found any locking tuners I like.


You will be perfectly happy with non-locking tuners, but feel free to try locking tuners. I just think it's $50-$100 extra that doesn't need to be spent. (Plus, I've had some bad luck with Sperzels, especially used ones where the threads are completely wrecked)

 

Word. A Bigsby isn't stable enough that locking tuners will make or break proper usage. Proper nut with graphite is all they need.



However I can see locking tuners helping string changes a bit but once your technique is good (erasure method or whatevs) then its a moot point.

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I added one to an SG. I had the nut filed properly and put a roller bridge on and the thing is a rock when it comes to tuning. Stays in tune as well with it as without. Didn't change the sound much if any that I can tell. I put an oversized spring in it so it has more range than you'll typically get with a Bigsby. Won't divebomb, but the low E string will detune down to Bb, which is pretty decent for all but the most radical whammy work.

 

 

 

this exact post.

 

 

where did you get the oversized spring? i just stuck pennies under mine, but they fall out sometimes.

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Word. A Bigsby isn't stable enough that locking tuners will make or break proper usage. Proper nut with graphite is all they need.



However I can see locking tuners helping string changes a bit but once your technique is good (erasure method or whatevs) then its a moot point.

 

 

 

yeah it's not so much for tuning stability as much it is for fast string changes, and I dunno what technique you're referring to other than using a capo to hold the string in place and bending the string at the ball end of which I do the ball end bend for sure but I have no need for the capo.

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