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New tuning machines? Hole in the middle? HELP!


gschmittling

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I bought some acoustic tuners from elderly...

 

http://www.elderly.com/accessories/names/grover-%22vintage%22-nickel-sta-tites-in-18%3a1-ratio-tu--H9718N.htm

 

the tuners look like this.. (sorry for the crappy cell pic)

IMG00004.jpg

 

 

 

I've changed tuning machines before, but am not sure why the hole is in the middle. How do I put these on so I can actually put strings on it? Did i get faulty tuning machines?

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Definitely not faulty - those are excellent tuning machines you've got there. Acoustic tuning machines all have a hole in the post. This may help to 'splain:

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Musician/Guitar/Setup/SteelStrings/Stringing/ststringing2.html

And this may help for general acoustic guitar reference in the future:

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/OwnerManual/manssguitar.html

What kind of tuning machines do you have on your acoustic now?

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I could be wrong and a liar, but I think that hole is so that you can thread the string through
:idk:
. It'd be kind of tough to get the strings to wrap around the post if there wasn't a hole to stick 'em through first, you know?



I've seen some electrics with no holes in the posts - mostly on vintage Fender-type machines. Some just have a slot at the top of the post. I've never been able to figure out how on earth those things are used. :facepalm:

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Well, I should've been more clear. The holes don't reach the top of my guitar for me to stick through the hole...



Stackabones pointed out that the tuners you bought are for a slothead guitar, and they are. They're designed to be installed sideways, so that the posts point towards the middle of the headstock.

If you don't have a slothead guitar, then return the tuners and buy some that are made for a standard headstock. I've heard that Elderly is pretty good with returns and such :).

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:wave:

 

He he... honest mistake, I didn't realize they were for slotted. So would these be what I'm looking for?


http://www.elderly.com/accessories/items/V9718N.htm


I have a Blueridge BR-160 which has a Martin style headstock. I couldn't find any info on what kind of tuners I would need.

 

Yeah, those'll probably do. To be on the safe side, just ask for some help at Elderly.

 

fyi, Martin makes both paddleheads and slotheads.

p2_upbb4qa1f_so.jpg

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Yeah, a bit late, but the "H" in the part number stands for Horizontal (for slot-heads), and a "V" would indicate Vertical (for paddle-heads). I'm pretty sure that Blueridge uses Grovers (or clones).

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Simple mistake. I'm sure Elderly will make it right. Good folks to deal with.

If you think you may need a different tuner all together, check their web site for the way to measure your tuner's specs. Length/ diameter of capstan etc. You might need a caliper of some sort to measure. If the originals are Grover/Waverly/Schaller/Gotoh/etc clones, you can find a set that'll pop right in, prolly use the same screw holes. Give 'em a call if you'd like. Very helpful people.

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He he... honest mistake, I didn't realize they were for slotted. So would these be what I'm looking for?




I have a Blueridge BR-160 which has a Martin style headstock. I couldn't find any info on what kind of tuners I would need.

 

 

Let me jump in here. Tuners, whether they are for a slot head or paddle head are sometimes different in measurements - in the case of a paddle head ("normal" Martin style, but remember that Martin builds both styles) that is the diameter of the post, length of post, possibly the location of the hole in the post and whether or not they are bushed (and both the ID and OD of the bushing). Not only that, the "foot print" is often different and the location of the mounting screw(s) always is. If not bushed there is probably a washer on the face.

 

When replacing a tuner, remove your old one and take it to a mechanic with digital calipers. Measure all of those things and compare them to the specs on the ones you want to use (StewMac publishes the specs on all their tuners, there will be a tab under the description that shows all the measurements). Measurements are frequently metric - you can do the conversion if you want.

 

The most important is shaft diameter and bushing. Shaft length and location of string hole second - altho some people purposely like shorter shafts or lower holes to increase the break angle. The foot print will tell you whether it will fit (and if it is going to cover the lines pressed into the finish by the old ones). Weight is sometimes important - some folks think that it makes a difference one way or another. If they use smaller washers on the face of the peghead you probably will get some little "eyes" where the old oned pressed into the finish - sometimes you can polish those out. Don't worry about the screw holes - they almost always require filling and re-drilling.

 

Some times you can reuse your bushings, often you will have to order new ones based on the measurements of the old. As a last resort you can ream (don't drill) your holes to fit new bushings.

 

 

Here, for example, are the beautiful open back Waverlys showing their standard bushings

 

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Guitar,_solid_peghead_tuners/Waverly_Guitar_Tuners/Waverly_

 

edit to add, it should be obvious that "on a plate" tuners also require careful checking of the hole centers - they are not always the same.

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Freeman does have a point. Regardless of whether the post is of the right height, you also have to take into consideration the diameter as well. If you're upgrading from a sealed type of tuner then the open backs are going to be too small for the hole in the paddle head. This is how it is with my Larriv

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As a builder I am very aware of how tuners fit and work, and have made a couple of drilling jigs for the ones that I like. Here is some more info that might help

http://www.bryankimsey.com/tuners/

when he reset the neck on my D18 I asked Bryan to switch the Rotos for a nice set of open back Gotohs - I really like them for the price.

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