Members Ron Burgandy Posted October 16, 2012 Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 It never allows the amp to fully clean up, it makes the volume knob act like an on/off switch, forget about running pedals without running the amp full bore, and in general makes the amp stupidly harsh at anything less than paint peeling volume. These little motherfuckers right here at c17 and c18:My previous 1987x had the single bright cap on the high treble volume pot. 30 seconds with the soldering iron and it was in business while leaving the cap intact! This older 1959slp had 2 bright caps on the freaking PCB. I started by clipping the 47k out of c17 since that's all the 1987x had:Plugged in and noticed the volume jump was lessened but the amp still had a lot of nasty high end below noon on the volume. Lame: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 100 watt Posted October 16, 2012 Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 Make V1 shared cathode instead of split. Smoothness (& more bass) to ensue .... Also change the cap on yer presence pot to .68. You'll like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ron Burgandy Posted October 16, 2012 Author Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 So I took the cap out at c18 as well:The amp went from unusable at anything less than full blast to being an amazing clean pedal platform able to perform at any volume. At noon and above on the volume it's exactly the same as the bright caps are effectively out of the circuit at that volume but it has the punchy smooth cleans I loved on the 1987x. My drummer was actually giving me shit for getting rid of the 50 watter because he can't hear himself over the SLP. This should fix that right up All because of these little motherfuckers:If you have a plexi ri I highly recommend doing this mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ron Burgandy Posted October 16, 2012 Author Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 Originally Posted by 100 watt Make V1 shared cathode instead of split. Smoothness (& more bass) to ensue ....Also change the cap on yer presence pot to .68. You'll like it. Any instructions on the v1 mod? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Edge11 Posted October 16, 2012 Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 How dare you! You should play around with some bright cap values and then throw them on a switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Y0UNGBL00D Posted October 16, 2012 Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 white coily cable ftw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members carvinlegacy99 Posted October 16, 2012 Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 Was there not a cap on the actual vol pot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ron Burgandy Posted October 16, 2012 Author Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 Originally Posted by Edge11 How dare you!You should play around with some bright cap values and then throw them on a switch. That's what I always read but with no bright cap it's pretty damn nice. Of course I come from vintage fender amps, so without the bright cap the plexi ri reminds me of a fender with more mids. I like a very clean amp. Originally Posted by Y0UNGBL00D white coily cable ftw For sure Originally Posted by carvinlegacy99 Was there not a cap on the actual vol pot? Nope! Apparently the 1987x had the volume pot mounted cap until about 2003. The 1959ri were consistent in that the two bright caps are on the PCB. They use the same damn PCB so wtf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Y0UNGBL00D Posted October 16, 2012 Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 not to derail, but that coily cable a vox by chance? mine just {censored} the bed and about to try the bullet one, since its similarly priced but has an accessible sleeve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DoubleBarrel Posted October 16, 2012 Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 I think Marshall put the bright caps on there, so you take it to your tech and say "man this sounds awful. How come I don't get great vintage plexi sounds out of this ? what's wrong with it ?" Then he tells you about the bright cap.........You mod it, and.............................. void your warranty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ron Burgandy Posted October 16, 2012 Author Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 Originally Posted by Y0UNGBL00D not to derail, but that coily cable a vox by chance? mine just shit the bed and about to try the bullet one, since its similarly priced but has an accessible sleeve Mine is the bullet cable version I love core products. DB - this one is from the 90's so warranty is long gone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Robson780 Posted October 16, 2012 Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 The volume knob on mine stays at 3 o'clock so it's a non issue for me. Good to know though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members telephant Posted October 16, 2012 Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 I thought the same thing when I clipped c17 and c18: "Why do they even put this shit in here?" Its not just killing the brightness either, the bright volume taper becomes much more even. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ron Burgandy Posted October 16, 2012 Author Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 Originally Posted by telephant I thought the same thing when I clipped c17 and c18: "Why do they even put this shit in here?" Its not just killing the brightness either, the bright volume taper becomes much more even. Yeah it is night and day! Of course now it's like a big warm Fender with EL34's but fuck it. That's my style anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Seano Porno Posted October 16, 2012 Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 so...you actually chop them out?? with pliers? My other guitarist has a '72 Superlead which sounds SO harsh when plugged into the bright channel or with the inputs jumped. would an oldskool one have the caps on the pot like your 1987x you think?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Nerine Posted October 16, 2012 Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 I'm debating clipping mine in my new reissue. Last time I just wobbled the {censored}er until its leg broke. I was on the fence about the mod. I'll see how it goes before and if I want to change it, I will. I probably will to be fair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ron Burgandy Posted October 16, 2012 Author Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 I think so from what I've read but it's easy to see if it does. Open it up and if there is a round disk cap on the back of the high treble volume then unsolder one of the legs. If you like it, bend it out of the way. If not, resolder it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Norton666 Posted October 16, 2012 Members Share Posted October 16, 2012 I always remove the bright caps on all of my NMV Marshall's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Dolf Posted October 17, 2012 Members Share Posted October 17, 2012 Aren't you kind of just turning it into a tweed bassman with el34s now? I keed, I keed, I'd do the same thing. I've always felt those were way too bright/harsh at even medium volumes stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ron Burgandy Posted October 17, 2012 Author Members Share Posted October 17, 2012 Originally Posted by Dolf Aren't you kind of just turning it into a tweed bassman with el34s now? I keed, I keed, I'd do the same thing. I've always felt those were way too bright/harsh at even medium volumes stock. I hope so! 100 watt el34 tweed bassman would be sweet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JimiRules Posted October 17, 2012 Members Share Posted October 17, 2012 Would a YJM have the same bright caps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Neilrocks25 Posted October 17, 2012 Members Share Posted October 17, 2012 Originally Posted by Edge11 How dare you!You should play around with some bright cap values and then throw them on a switch. I would do the same put in a switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 100 watt Posted October 17, 2012 Members Share Posted October 17, 2012 on the split to shared cathode conversion ,I cant remember which pin it is, but on a RI, you simply remove 1 wire from one of the pins, and run a jumper from it, to another one on V1. The unused wire can be heatshrinked & tucked away, in case you wanna put it back stock. It's basically making it a superbass, but without upping the caps. Ive done it on a few reissues & its a definate improvement. Espescially on a harsh sounding amp. Again, it's reversible. I still suggest the fixed resonance mod. Simple & effective. Also, play around with switching what tap the NFB wire is on. Simple stuff that a 2 year old chimpanzee could do, that yeild good results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members fretless Posted October 17, 2012 Members Share Posted October 17, 2012 I think they know their users will eventually go deaf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members 100 watt Posted October 17, 2012 Members Share Posted October 17, 2012 Deaf by Marshall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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