Members J.L.C. Posted June 20, 2009 Members Share Posted June 20, 2009 I just picked up a used Peavey Dyna Bass Unity Series from the late 80s and it's in great shape, but I'd like to bring the oiled finish back to life. Not exactly sure which oil was used, and it's old enough that I can't find the specs anywhere. It might be koa. Is it a good or bad idea to use lemon oil to get some of the gunk off and then give it a coat with tung oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Eddie Posted June 20, 2009 Members Share Posted June 20, 2009 Lemon Oil actually dries the wood. To clean the guitar you can use nafta (lighter fluid).If the fingerboard is rosewood you can use Bore Oil. I use Roche Thomas or sometimes Guitar Honey. You can also order Fret Doctor from http://www.beafifer.com/ but it's more expensive than the Roche Thomas Fretboard Conditioner.For a tung oil finish I used Tru-Oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Elias Graves Posted June 20, 2009 Members Share Posted June 20, 2009 If its a factory oil finish, then its likely tung oil. As said before, clean it with a solvent like naptha then apply another coat of tung. Should spruce it right up. EG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members J.L.C. Posted June 21, 2009 Author Members Share Posted June 21, 2009 Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Eddie Posted June 21, 2009 Members Share Posted June 21, 2009 Just a reminder. Be VERY CAREFUL when disposing of the rags after applying tung oil. They can spontaneously combust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cavpilot Posted June 21, 2009 Members Share Posted June 21, 2009 ...For a tung oil finish I used Tru-Oil. Tung oil and Tru-Oil are two different products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mrbrown49 Posted June 21, 2009 Members Share Posted June 21, 2009 Tung oil and Tru-Oil are two different products. True, but if the current finish is compatible with tru-oil, I would suggest using that instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Ratae Corieltauvorum Posted June 21, 2009 Moderators Share Posted June 21, 2009 Lemon Oil actually dries the wood. To clean the guitar you can use nafta (lighter fluid). And naphtha doesn't? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mrbrown49 Posted June 21, 2009 Members Share Posted June 21, 2009 And naptha doesn't? It definitely does, especially the surface of raw wood like a RW fingerboard. Usually that's the idea though. To get oil the finger oils and gunk off the wood. But, I always follow that up with a little bit of mineral oil in that case to replenish. Finishing however is a totally different subject. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members thunder100 Posted June 21, 2009 Members Share Posted June 21, 2009 Lemon Oil actually dries the wood. To clean the guitar you can use nafta (lighter fluid). If the fingerboard is rosewood you can use Bore Oil. I use Roche Thomas or sometimes Guitar Honey. You can also order Fret Doctor from http://www.beafifer.com/ but it's more expensive than the Roche Thomas Fretboard Conditioner. For a tung oil finish I used Tru-Oil. I recommend you to use the more expensice Fret Doctor,which is a bore oil.At least read what he says--> its trueThis are 2 of my guitars the front one is dark rosewood the rear one ebony.Treated every 1/2 year when I replace stringsI had a lighter rosweood 2 which also stayed lighterRoland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Eddie Posted June 21, 2009 Members Share Posted June 21, 2009 @Ratae Coritanorum,Yes, naphta dries the wood as well. I should have clarified. But it's great for cleaning. @cavpilot,You are correct. They're different. From what I understand Tru-Oil is harder and brighter. That's what Gerard Melancon recommended it and I've had great results with it. @Roland,I've read their website many times, back when I was interested in that product. In the end I decided to go with Roche Tomas. It was much cheaper and the results have been great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Doctor Morbius Posted June 21, 2009 Members Share Posted June 21, 2009 Can I use Tung Oil over a MIM Standard Strat's satin neck to darken it up and give it a little more of a finished feel? I've been wondering if that may adversely affect the already satin finished neck. TIA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members guitarcapo Posted June 21, 2009 Members Share Posted June 21, 2009 Some other "drying oils" used in wood finishing and painting are linseed oil, walnut oil, and poppy seed oil. I think linseed is a little more durable than tung oil but they're pretty similar in properties Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cavpilot Posted June 21, 2009 Members Share Posted June 21, 2009 Tru-oil imparts some amber color to what it's applied to. Tung oil does not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Doctor Morbius Posted June 21, 2009 Members Share Posted June 21, 2009 Tru-oil imparts some amber color to what it's applied to. Tung oil does not.Thanks. Is it OK to apply Tru-oil over an already finished '06 bone white MIM Standard neck? Will it hurt the existing finish? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members -Assy- Posted June 22, 2009 Members Share Posted June 22, 2009 my favorite finish to use is a danish oil/combo of other finishes around, but then again, thats a furniture maker for you... most oil finishes are compatible with others, its all oil-based, and some have oil-based polyurethanes in them to help build them up. tung oil is definitely the most common oil finish in the guitar world i'd have to say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Woody_in_MN Posted June 22, 2009 Members Share Posted June 22, 2009 Once you clean up the finish, if you want to add a low gloss protective coating, you may want to try minnwax wipe on poly. I used it and found it easy to control - but to do it right you should really sand the finish before applying. This is actually a product Dr. M. turned me on to. - w Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members -Assy- Posted June 22, 2009 Members Share Posted June 22, 2009 Once you clean up the finish, if you want to add a low gloss protective coating, you may want to try minnwax wipe on poly. I used it and found it easy to control - but to do it right you should really sand the finish before applying. This is actually a product Dr. M. turned me on to. - w do 75% oil, 25% whipe on poly combo, and you get a nice finish that goes on easy and is easily controlled, yet builds up very small weather-proof layers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cavpilot Posted June 22, 2009 Members Share Posted June 22, 2009 TDPRI has an entire forum (called "finely finished") dedicated to this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members thunder100 Posted June 22, 2009 Members Share Posted June 22, 2009 =Eddie;35018861@Roland,I've read their website many times, back when I was interested in that product. In the end I decided to go with Roche Tomas. It was much cheaper and the results have been great. Hi What do you use?Premium Fingerboard Oil? Thanks Roland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Eddie Posted June 22, 2009 Members Share Posted June 22, 2009 Yes Roland. It is $2.68 at interstatemusic.comOther sites may offer a price match in case you prefer to get it somewhere else. Even at the regular price (around $4) it is cheap. I've got the 2 oz. bottle and it will last me many years.So far I used it in maybe half a dozen guitars and a couple of basses. The small bottle still looks practically full. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members thunder100 Posted June 22, 2009 Members Share Posted June 22, 2009 Maybe I am in an dry-er environment.the same 2 oz bottle on Fret doctor after 1 1/2 year-->2 guitars-->6 finishes lost 25 %.But anyway we talk about peanuts cost. One more question.Does it colour the fretboard in any diection? (Get darker of course,but In the past i had one which was yellow but moved to redish on the Rosewood-->I want it virtually black) Roland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Eddie Posted June 22, 2009 Members Share Posted June 22, 2009 As far as I can tell it does not affect the color. It does look darker when it is applied, but I don't think it really has any long-term effect on color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Doctor Morbius Posted June 22, 2009 Members Share Posted June 22, 2009 my favorite finish to use is a danish oil/combo of other finishes around, but then again, thats a furniture maker for you...most oil finishes are compatible with others, its all oil-based, and some have oil-based polyurethanes in them to help build them up. tung oil is definitely the most common oil finish in the guitar world i'd have to say.Just bought a can of Danish Oil today. Will try it on a bone white MIM neck underneth the neck plate area where it'll be hidden to see how it works out. Thanks guys. Sorry for the hijack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Ratae Corieltauvorum Posted June 22, 2009 Moderators Share Posted June 22, 2009 Just bought a can of Danish Oil today. Will try it on a bone white MIM neck underneth the neck plate area where it'll be hidden to see how it works out. Thanks guys. Sorry for the hijack. Doc, it won't do a great deal for it, there's a satin poly on there that will not allow any penetration into the wood Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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