Members mercutioburns Posted October 2, 2009 Members Share Posted October 2, 2009 I just snagged an awesome deal last weekend: A Jackson DK2 complete without pickups for only $50. Paintjob is flawless, hardly any dings, fretwear or cracks in the fretboard. Got some pickups (Air Norton S and Chopper) on the way, but while I wait for em, I wanna get ready to set her up to rip. I'm looking to keep her in D standard, low as I can go action without buzz, and will most likely install a tremol-no later when I have the funds. I've learned the woes of having a Floyd, but I've learned to deal with it. Off topic question but do any of you know of a cheaper trem stop method that doesn't involve modifying the body (I don't want to block it)? Right now, I'm thinking of polishing the frets, oiling the fretboard, getting the pickups in and intonating the floyd, but the only thing about setups that eludes me is the truss rod adjustment and action. I know you adjust the string height by the posts in the floyd, but when it comes to the neck itself, I'm afraid I'll mess things up. So for those of you who do your own setups, how do you go about it? What order do you do things in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Offday Posted October 2, 2009 Members Share Posted October 2, 2009 This one's blocked off inside the back cavity, no mods, no problems A lot eaiser than replacing it, and it keeps the floyd intact for resale and won't srew up anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members maltomario Posted October 2, 2009 Members Share Posted October 2, 2009 that doesn't look like any DK2 that i've ever seen. you sure that is a DK2? but, anyway to answer your questions.. cheap but effective way (and reversable) is to install a trem stop:http://www.axcessories.com/products.asp?cat=103 personally i would wait to do a full setup until you install pickups, otherwise you're gonna have to remove strings to get pickups in there. you can however, spend time polishing frets and oiling fretboard. when it comes time to adjust action/truss rod, there are plenty of docs on the internet describing the process. go slow, little adjustments witht he truss and you are less likely to screw something up. if you ahve a specific question about truss rod, ask it. i am lazy today and doni't feel like typing up the entire process... sorry good luck and kudos to you for trying to learn how to do this stuff on your own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Woody_in_MN Posted October 2, 2009 Members Share Posted October 2, 2009 FOR THE TRUSS ADJUSTMENT: I would not be surprised if there is a youtube on how to do this - but the truss rod adjusts the "bow" in the neck. Ideally you want something close to a straight neck when you are done. For the method I use (I'm self taught) - you need the strings back on your guitar. Clean the frets first - you can use a furniture wax cleaner (Murphy's?), you can actually use a very, very fine steel wool to clean the frets, and even the fretboard itself if you need to (Use the finest steel wool you can find - 0000 ). Then use lemon oil to oil. (Actally Fret Doctor is better - but you have to send away for it - beafifer.com). Anyway, when you get the strings back on - if your fretboard seems bowed, and the action is bad - turn your truss 1/2 a turn (I forget the directions) - but if it improves - keep going at about 1/4 to 1/2 turn increments. At one point you may get great action, but some string buzz - if you get this back off in 1/4 turn increments until you loose you string buzz. Hope this helps. - W Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members PlinytheWelder Posted October 2, 2009 Members Share Posted October 2, 2009 The trem-stop is real useful for intonating a Floyd, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members poolshark Posted October 2, 2009 Members Share Posted October 2, 2009 personally i would wait to do a full setup until you install pickups, otherwise you're gonna have to remove strings to get pickups in there. you can however, spend time polishing frets and oiling fretboard. Agreed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members AshboneWish Posted October 2, 2009 Members Share Posted October 2, 2009 Try this......... http://mysite.verizon.net/jazz.guitar/guitarsetup.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mercutioburns Posted October 2, 2009 Author Members Share Posted October 2, 2009 that doesn't look like any DK2 that i've ever seen. you sure that is a DK2? personally i would wait to do a full setup until you install pickups, otherwise you're gonna have to remove strings to get pickups in there. you can however, spend time polishing frets and oiling fretboard. No idea honestly, the guy I got it from said it was. Tried googling the serial numer on back and checking out Jackson's website but couldn't find anything (not that I really tried looking hard enough). Even if it isn't, I'm still happy with a $50 guitar . As for the oiling and polishing, that would obviously be done before the intonation and all that jazz. Thanks for the help guys. I just really want to learn how to do this on my own. I had a setup done for a 7 string ibanez that just wasn't playing right: dead notes, high action, etc etc. After the $75 setup it was like heaven. I almost swore of 7's completely until I got the setup. But I don't think I can shell out that money every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members PlinytheWelder Posted October 2, 2009 Members Share Posted October 2, 2009 Get this:http://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Player-Repair-Guide-3rd/dp/0879309210/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1254526893&sr=8-1 and this:http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Guitar-Great-Softcover-Player/dp/0879306017/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1254526893&sr=8-2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Bro Blue Posted October 3, 2009 Members Share Posted October 3, 2009 Oiling the fretboard and polishing the frets is about the only thing you can do (other than polishing the body and back of the neck) until the pickups arrive. There are plenty of places on line that show you how to adjust the neck. The cardinal rule of truss rod adjustment is this: use very small turns, one quarter turn at a time maximum, giving it a day or two to settle in before you adjust it again. Oh yeah, have fun setting the intonation on that Floyd, he he. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members darkcheef Posted October 3, 2009 Members Share Posted October 3, 2009 Oiling the fretboard and polishing the frets is about the only thing you can do (other than polishing the body and back of the neck) until the pickups arrive. There are plenty of places on line that show you how to adjust the neck. The cardinal rule of truss rod adjustment is this: use very small turns, one quarter turn at a time maximum, giving it a day or two to settle in before you adjust it again. Oh yeah, have fun setting the intonation on that Floyd, he he. Oh god what have I done to my guitar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members twotimingpete Posted October 3, 2009 Members Share Posted October 3, 2009 you don't have to be so careful. the truss rod isn't made of dust. it's pretty tough. people say use caution because there IS the possibility of overtightening it and breaking it, but on a healthy guitar this is NOT easy! only an ape would turn it so hard that it'd break. I'm sure we have an ape or two in our midst, but really -- I just don't see how you could break a truss rod or a neck unless you were being so careless that you were forcing the {censored} out of it. wait a day? the effects of the truss rod adjustment, if loosening, show up almost instantly because of the tension of the strings. tightening show up quick too. you don't gotta wait a day. you can turn it and measure the results almost instantly. with a truss rod, don't force it. only turn it if it's easy to turn. follow that rule and you won't break anything! Oiling the fretboard and polishing the frets is about the only thing you can do (other than polishing the body and back of the neck) until the pickups arrive.There are plenty of places on line that show you how to adjust the neck. The cardinal rule of truss rod adjustment is this: use very small turns, one quarter turn at a time maximum, giving it a day or two to settle in before you adjust it again.Oh yeah, have fun setting the intonation on that Floyd, he he. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Bro Blue Posted October 3, 2009 Members Share Posted October 3, 2009 The issue is not so much breaking it but over adjusting it. It easy to tell if you haven't adjusted enough and need to turn a little more. It's not quite so easy to over adjust and be able to tell how much - which means you will be adjusting in smaller increments anyway, just in the opposite direction. As for giving it time, you may be able to tell a difference fairly quickly, but it takes time for things to settle in and stop moving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Vintage55 Posted October 3, 2009 Members Share Posted October 3, 2009 Turn the truss rod clockwise to straighten the neck and counter-clockwise to add bow. The best rule of thumb is to fret the guitar, low E string, at the first and 12th fret and there should be just a hair of a gap between the string and the 6th fret. You don't want the neck ruler flat, but just a small amount of bow. If the frets are level, this can allow really low action all the way up the neck. Typically, the higher frets are not well done and that's where problems can arise with getting the action really low. And you don't have to wait days for the effect to set-in. With strings on the guitar (as there should be during adjustment) the majority of the change will show up almost immediately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dres_x Posted October 3, 2009 Members Share Posted October 3, 2009 Get this: http://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Player-Repair-Guide-3rd/dp/0879309210/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1254526893&sr=8-1 and this: http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Guitar-Great-Softcover-Player/dp/0879306017/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1254526893&sr=8-2 I've been thinking to get a book on guitar maintenance/repair. Why both though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members SuproSuper Man Posted October 3, 2009 Members Share Posted October 3, 2009 look it up on youtube , simply stated, - just put a capo on the first fret and gently press down all the strings against your last fret with your right hand (;ick holding hand) , - now look at the middle area of your neck you should see some light shining through under the bottom of the strings and the top of the frets, that middle part of the guitar is where the bow in neck will be most noticable when you look under the strings.. - now slowly turn your truss rod clockwise to tighten it just like people here said only about o quarter turn at a time and then look to see how much that gap between the top of the frets and bottom of string has shrunk or gotten smaller, - I generally keep doing this till i just reach the point where i no longer see any light shining between the top of the frets and the bottom of the string, VERY IMPORTANT - now tht you see no light you think the neck is perfectly flat and you can leave it at that,,WRONG - to finish you must now back off or loosen the truss rod ever so slightly till you see just the slightest amount of light come shining through once again, the moment you see that tiny gap then stop and try out the playability of the axe,, if you like it and there is no buzzing then your done.. WHY back up after getting it flat - simple when there is no light shining through between the string and the top of the fret that could mean two things. One that the neck is perfectly flat, or two that the neck is bowed back ever so slightly which will cause BUZZ and premature fret wear,,,either way you need that tiny bit of bow for the guitar to work its best... How much gap do I need - I do it by eye and try to get only the slightest gap of light shining through..., but having said that each of my guitars is slightly done differently for various reasons, you will have to be the judge as to what works for you, BUT some people here on these forums have little tricks such as using certain size guitar picks as thickness gauges, or playing cards etc, ask them and im sure they can give you some cool tips on that, or maybe you can go to stew macs site or maybe even fenders or gibsons site to get their recommended gap sizes.. anyway just dont go nuts with the truss rod, again if no light is shinning through then stop immediately and loosen it up , and GENTLE is the key word, quarter turns at a time should work out and be safe,,,,,and yes PATIENTS is a virtue, some guitars are slow to fully react, the perfect set up today will or may be off tomorrow on some guitars after they have fully finished responding to the pressure exerted on them by the new setting of the truss rod. so again dont go nuts just gentle quarter turns at a time and wait a bit to see how your neck responds,,,you can always do gentle tweeks later if needed to hone it in, most good setups take a few days or weeks of tweeking, playing , tweeking playing till you get it exactly just the way you like it anyway to suit your tastes... just dont over tighten and bend it back too far, soon as the light stops shining threw stop immediately and gently loosen it up a bit to get just the right amount of gap, bow, or neck relief as they call it.. good luck and for more detailed opinions, ideas, and thoughts on how to setup necks do a harmony central forums search, there are a lot of posts on this topic on the HC forums.... [YOUTUBE][/YOUTUBE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members twotimingpete Posted October 3, 2009 Members Share Posted October 3, 2009 I just adjust it until there's the TINIEST amount of space between the string and the frets using the mechanics described above. I find it doesn't have to be a scientific process, eyeballing works. on low end guitars that need fret level jobs it can be desirable to have a hair more relief than on guitars with pristine frets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Darkstorm Posted October 3, 2009 Members Share Posted October 3, 2009 I adjust truss rod so neck is allmost dead straight. Just bare hint of any upward curve as sighting down the neck from body end. In best cases is bassically dead straight but absolutely no hint of downward curve/bow. In that case theres so little hint of upward curve its just zero back curve and otherwise looks dead straight or pratically so. Generally though is tiny tiny hard to notice without looking real close, slightest amount of upward curve. This gives that little bit of light between strings and top of frets others have mentioned when fretted at first and last frets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Belva Posted October 3, 2009 Members Share Posted October 3, 2009 I use this method. Do the capo & last fret thing with guitar tuned to desired pitch. Use a damn feeler guage fercrissake! If your small string is a .010 use a .010 feeler guage. .009 use a .009. Same with 11, 12 and so on. I've been doing setups for other people way too much lately. They keep referring me to more people. I don't have time to {censored} & fall back in it. Must be doing something right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mercutioburns Posted October 5, 2009 Author Members Share Posted October 5, 2009 Hey guys, thanks for all the tips. Pups should be coming by the end of this week and I'll let you guys know how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mercutioburns Posted November 1, 2009 Author Members Share Posted November 1, 2009 UPDATE: It's been awhile. hope everyone had a great halloween! So I got the pups in and the wiring all settled, cleaned the frets and fretboard, oiled the floyd parts, blocked it myself (which wasn't too bad really, sure beats $20 for trem stop) and now I attacked the truss rod. I did the eyeball the light thing. This thing was dead straight before I started and would just have dead notes from frets 1-5. So I loosened it in quarter turns just so a little light would show through. So I now I get slight buzzing from them. The only problem is now I have already set the string height as low as possible (the floyd is directly parallel with the body and in the cavity) I have dead notes for the the low E string at frets 8 and up, and then i have buzz for the high e at 12 and up. Even with the floyd set so low, the strings are still pretty high. I'm using Ernie Ball Not Even Slinky 56-44-32-24-16-12 tuned to C# standard. Is this something I can fix or should I take it in to a tech? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cross.bones Posted November 2, 2009 Members Share Posted November 2, 2009 Is it a bolt on neck or a set neck? I don't know much about Jackson's so forgive me for not knowing. If its a bolt on it sounds like it needs a shim. 12's on that should be ok for that tuning. Its also worth possibly giving it a little more bow then leaving it 24 hours, or at the shortest time, overnight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members McHale Posted November 2, 2009 Members Share Posted November 2, 2009 can you post a side shot of your body/floyd? I wanna see how it's sitting. You don't need a shim. Basic rule on Jacksons: American made is set neck. Otherwise it's a bolt on. At least that's how it was explained to me when I got my first Jackson (a bolt on). By the way, unbelievable score on that Jackson. Very nice. And I hope you blocked the Floyd so it at least bends down. Floyds are fun and easy to work with. -Mc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members doodie Posted November 2, 2009 Members Share Posted November 2, 2009 I've been thinking to get a book on guitar maintenance/repair. Why both though? first book is all about repairing and maintenance(stuff like fixing neck crack, replacing parts, fret works, rewinding pu, electronic & soldering...etc) 2nd book is all about setting up gear(pushout plastic sheet with tools for the measurment included). get both! they are great read, especially there are no luthier in your town. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Furtive Posted November 2, 2009 Members Share Posted November 2, 2009 Get a tin of Nevr Dull wadding polish to remove tarnish from the frets. Only use steel wool if the frets need to be touched up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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