Guitar refinish/repainting question...

[anti-flag193]

I've heard sand & sealer can react negatively with freshly applied lacquer, but I don't have first hand experience. May want to brush it on and be careful around the fresh paint. Don't skip the B.I.N. You'll regret it.

 

I can't brush it on as it's an rattle can. I'll try my best not to get it on the blue. I plan on laying down s&s/primer/color like I did the last time then spraying a few coats of blue over the whole guitar after sanding.

[Angry Tele]

if thats nitro why don't you just remove it and start over?

 

Also, why are you sanding between coats? This is not neccessary if you apply light coats.

 

Youve got some huge scratches you might want to get rid of before painting. You gotta go with the grain exactly when you sand. Those scratches will be magnified not hidden by the paint.

[anti-flag193]

I'm not sure if I'd have enough paint to start over and if that's the case I don't wanna put any more money into it. Will spot painting look that bad? The only time I sanded was after the first 2 sand and sealer coats and the next two coats of sand and sealer, after the primer, and eventually after all the color is on. The scratches aren't too bad. I'm getting all the dents out now with #220 and then gotta hit it with #320 (maybe lighter?) sandpaper before starting with the sand and sealer again.

[Angry Tele]

its gonna be impossible to match those areas up with a rattle can especially doing primer and color...You should sand to 400, and Im talking about sand paper scratches you can see on the pic of the upper horn, these need to be gone.

[BoneNut]

I'm not sure if I'd have enough paint to start over and if that's the case I don't wanna put any more money into it. Will spot painting look that bad? The only time I sanded was after the first 2 sand and sealer coats and the next two coats of sand and sealer, after the primer, and eventually after all the color is on. The scratches aren't too bad. I'm getting all the dents out now with #220 and then gotta hit it with #320 (maybe lighter?) sandpaper before starting with the sand and sealer again.

 

I would use at least #600 paper before applying paint.

Remember... the smoother the base, the smoother the paint will turn out.

[Angry Tele]

the last pic looks good, minimal orange peel thats what you want.

[Pope on a Rope]

so sand down bigger spots? Don't see how it'd look bad. 4 coats of sand and sealer, 3 coats of primer, 3 blue coats (obviously sanding between all of these) then lay the rest of the blue over the whole guitar.

 

Any imperfection that gets painted over will be magnified just like Angry Tele said. Those edges will stand out. the edges of the sanded areas should really be feathered out before applying sealer and primer.

[anti-flag193]

By feathered out you mean lightly sanding the areas around the sanded areas? How far should I sand them?

[Pope on a Rope]

By feathered out you mean lightly sanding the areas around the sanded areas? How far should I sand them?

 

Sand with a block until you can't feel any edges between the wood and the top layer of paint. You usually need to sand quite a bit away from the actual chip or whatever you are trying to repair.

 

At the stage you're in now, I would feather back all the edges, rough up the rest of it and prime the whole thing again. The way you are doing it now is just a lot of extra work. It's quicker and easier just to work on the body as a whole rather than pecking at bunch of little defects.

 

If you find defects that need attention after you prime you should use the filler over the primer. I would use polyester putty. It's meant for filling small defects and scratches and can be used over bare metal, bare wood, paint and primer. It also sands easy and does not shrink. I wouldn't use wood putty unless I was trying to match wood for a stained or another transparent finish.

[anti-flag193]

Thanks Pope. What grit should I use when roughing up the rest of the guitar?

[anti-flag193]

also, what about the sand and seal coats on the bare wood?

 

I should mention that I can't feel the edges of the sanded areas. The paint was very thin. Two quick swipes with sandpaper and I was seeing bare wood. I don't know if that would change your recommendation though.

[Pope on a Rope]

I would use 400 grit to sand it all down. Then 600 grit for sanding the primer coat after respraying it.

 

Even though you used only a couple coats it will still leave visible edges and a noticeable dip if you prime over that now. You have to sand each coat back (feather), using a block to make the surface as flat as possible to prevent the edges of each coat from standing out in additional coats. You should have more primer exposed between the color coat and the bare wood.

[anti-flag193]

ok so kinda like what I started doing in the 3rd pick down but sand farther back? Before priming the whole body again, I should spray some coats of sand and sealer on the bare spots correct. Starting to debate whether or not to sand everything and start over...

[anti-flag193]

I truly appreciate everyone's help btw. I'd be lost right now without the help.

[anti-flag193]

fellas. I haven't worked on this project in 6 months. I ended up sanding down everything nice, spraying about 15 light coats of color followed by a bunch of clear coats. It looks very nice now and there's no visible dings or blemishes. But, i have to wet sand it to make is smooth and shine. Tips? What roughness sand paper should I start with etc? Any other tips to make it shine would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Belva]

Start with 1000. Got to 1500. Then go with rubbing compound followed by polishing compound. With the polishing compound I like to use a Powerball. Then use Kit car wax. It's mostly carnuba with a light scratch remover. Just make sure you don't take it into the sunlight without shades, It WILL shine like a new dime on a goat's ass!

[DaveAronow]

Start with 1000. Got to 1500. Then go with rubbing compound followed by polishing compound. With the polishing compound I like to use a Powerball. Then use Kit car wax. It's mostly carnuba with a light scratch remover. Just make sure you don't take it into the sunlight without shades, It WILL shine like a new dime on a goat's ass!

The only thing I would add to this is to make damn sure you have enough of a thickness of clear on there, or youll sand through it. you are probably OK, if you indeed did get "a bunch" of coats on there, also, 1000 grit is right to start with, but I would go to 1200, and then to 1500, and then you could polish as mentioned, or you could keep going up a couple more grits. from 1500 to 2000, and then from 2000 to 2500. It will just make the finished product that much more smooth, but you certainly could start polishing after 1500. It will just take more polishing and buffing to get it ultra glossy if that is your intention.

[anti-flag193]

I used a whole can of reranch clear. Thanks guys. I'll post pics when I'm done.

[lowbrow]

Don't use water...use mineral spirits.

[BoneNut]

Don't use water...use mineral spirits.

 

Please tell me more about using mineral spirits.

I've always used water with a few drops of liquid soap in it. I've gotten great results but am very careful not to get water on bare wood and have never had problem but the mineral spirit things sound like a good idea.

[anti-flag193]

Today I wet sanded starting at 1000, then 1500 then 2000. Looks and feels very smooth. I'd like to put some polish on it. Recommendations?

[BG76]

Your paint job will only be as good as your prep.

[Belva]

Today I wet sanded starting at 1000, then 1500 then 2000. Looks and feels very smooth. I'd like to put some polish on it. Recommendations?

If you've gone as far as 2000 I'd get some automotive polishing compound. Turtle Wax is as good as any. Then I'd use a good carnuba based wax. As stated, I like the KIT brand automotive paste wax.