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Guitar refinish/repainting question...


anti-flag193

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Hey guys. Got all the paint off with a heat gun and putty knife. Couldn't get the sealer coat off the front or back except for a few spots (the light spots). I got sand and sealer and nitro primer, daphne blue paint and clear coat from ReRanch.

After stripping the paint with the putty knife and heat gun, I tried to sand out all the gouges I made and as you can see, I burned it in a few spots as well. I sanded it down the best I could and used wood filler to fill the gouges. ReRanch said the sand and sealer coat would fill in the scratches that are too deep to sand...

This is after spraying a few coats of sand and sealer on then lightly sanding it (letting it dry and sanding after 2 coats)
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Then I put on two more coats and sanded again until smooth. The scratches and gouges felt smooth to the touch after the sanding.

Then I primered it. I put two coats on, let dry, then sanded smooth. Put another coat on and sanded again after drying. The body looked smooth (forgot to take pics doh!).

Then, I layed three coats of daphne blue nitro down. This stuff dries fast! It took about 20 minutes to do all three coats and that is where I am now. It looks ok but you can see some of the scratches and gouges that I filled and thought the sand and sealer would cover up.

After two quick coats.
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After three coats.
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Now, here are some visible gouges...

 

Gouge that was filled with filler

IMG_2362.jpg

Where the bare sides met the sealer coat on the front

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Some gouges from the putty knife, that were wood filled.

IMG_2365.jpg

 

So, it looks fine and I'm ok with the imperfections considering it's a 10 year old guitar but..what did I do wrong and is there anything I can do now? Should I have filler them more? Used more sand and sealer or primer? Now, should I put more layers of blue on? The ReRanch tutorial said to put on the color until it covers the white primer and then put on two more coats. I have a lot of the can left...

 

I still have the clear coat to put on it after I'm happy with the blue.

 

Thanks for the help.

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Those are some really deep gouges that needed be filled. You just didn't look it over well before painting. I use a light with a bare bulb to view. you can fill them now with automotive spot putty (red) and then spot prime with light gray or white primer.

Use multiple coats of primer and wet sand between coats until it is perfect, then color coat. Build your finish and correct the imperfections with your cheap primer and save the good stuff for the color and clear coats.

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Those are some really deep gouges that needed be filled. You just didn't look it over well before painting. I use a light with a bare bulb to view. you can fill them now with automotive spot putty (red) and then spot prime with light gray or white primer.


Use multiple coats of primer and wet sand between coats until it is perfect, then color coat. Build your finish and correct the imperfections with your cheap primer and save the good stuff for the color and clear coats.



...or don't bother. It's an old guitar and it's close enough!

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I think you're doing a good job and learning al ot along the way. You haven't screwed anything up. All yoyu need to do is sand some more.

Keep in mind that your finish will only be as good as the prep work before it. I wouldn't fill thos dings with putty. I'd rather sand them out.

Keep up the good work.
:thu:

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You mean sand down to bare wood again to sand out the dents?



Yes sir, that's what I would do but it's your guitar and decision. All that's really important though is that you're happy with it.

I think you've done a lot of hard work on it and with a bit more, it'll turn out perfect. Again though, it's only my opinion.

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Hmm...really not sure. Not sure if I have enough paint to do it again. I'll have to decide tomorrow. How many color coats of nitro normally go on a guitar?



It all depends. I laid 20-24 coats on my Strat, sanding between every few coats. I only used a can and a half of paint for the whole process.

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While poly will not burn into the previous coats like Nitro or KTM it can be repaired. You sand the area and slightly outside of the area in need of repair with 220. Mask off the area sanded. Spray. Let dry and it is done. Done improperly and it will peel; this is why people mistakenly say it cannot be repaired. Done properly and the finish is durable. Or do I need to remind people of all the dents auto body shops repair daily and spot paint over polyurethane with polyurethane paint.



Have you ever tried that? You just wind up with a larger spot and a ring around the transition between the two coats. Body shops spot paint the base coat but the always clear coat the entire panel after a repair. You can't blend polyurethane unless you are satisfied with something that looks like an obvious patch. Lacquer on the other hand melts into the original finish and can be blended.

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Unfortunately we ALL learned the same way you did. When you think it's smooth enough, think again. It has to be baby ass smooth or the imperfections will show. I like to use the B.I.N. after the sand & sealer. And I sometimes will use twice as much sand and seal as I think I need. When I'm done sanding, I sand some more. Hold the thing up to the light and get the reflection on the surface. A lot of things that you thought were good will show up in that light a bit better. Or worse depending how you look at things.

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