Members atrox Posted July 23, 2007 Author Members Share Posted July 23, 2007 Odd that the main reason I created this thread was so I could easily find these posts for when I needed them... but then they take the search function away anyway and now it's kinda useless for it's intended purpose now:thu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Quarter Posted July 30, 2007 Members Share Posted July 30, 2007 Odd that the main reason I created this thread was so I could easily find these posts for when I needed them... but then they take the search function away anyway and now it's kinda useless for it's intended purpose now:thu: Until they fix it, Up We Go ... Weeeee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RedsFan75 Posted August 10, 2007 Members Share Posted August 10, 2007 Atrox, and MindRiot also, Quick question about your fret dressing, Do you always dress with a certain radius block? Can you re-radius a neck just by using say a 9.5 block instead of a 12? Oh, and thanks for the threads.... Still reading on a couple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mind Riot Posted August 10, 2007 Members Share Posted August 10, 2007 I did my first fret level with a radius block, but since then I've started using flat steel stock. If you're talking about leveling frets with a radius block, you can use a different block than the neck radius to a point. If you level a 14" radius neck with a 9.5" block, you'll most likely not have any fret left at the edges of the fretboard when you're done. And vice versa if you level a 9.5" with a 14" block, you'll probably not have any fret left in the middle. If you're talking about reradiusing the board itself when the frets are removed, you can reshape the radius into whatever you want with a few caveats: 1) The board has to be thick enough to allow reshaping (many vintage Fenders used a rosewood veneer board that is not thick enough to allow radical reradiusing.) 2) If the board is maple, you will need to refinish it to protect the wood if you reradius it. 3) You will need to cut a new nut to match the new radius, and make sure the bridge is set up to match it as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RedsFan75 Posted August 10, 2007 Members Share Posted August 10, 2007 Thanks for the reply, I've actually just finished your thread about the first Fret Level and see what you're talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jerry_picker Posted August 10, 2007 Members Share Posted August 10, 2007 I'll put this thread in my personal half-assed FAQ thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Cloacal-X Posted August 10, 2007 Members Share Posted August 10, 2007 Great thread! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members atrox Posted October 26, 2007 Author Members Share Posted October 26, 2007 I was updating this for myself tonight and I thought I'd give her a bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members The Blue Garden Posted October 26, 2007 Members Share Posted October 26, 2007 hadn't seen this before, thanks for the bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GarysBlues Posted October 26, 2007 Members Share Posted October 26, 2007 Good Stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members atrox Posted November 2, 2007 Author Members Share Posted November 2, 2007 update bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members atrox Posted December 26, 2007 Author Members Share Posted December 26, 2007 bump because of another link update Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaveAronow Posted December 26, 2007 Members Share Posted December 26, 2007 Keep bumping it Atrox!! This is one of the best alltime threads on this forum. I propose everyone who believes this to be true, to rate it in the rate this thread option as many have already done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Jura Posted December 29, 2007 Members Share Posted December 29, 2007 lovely stuff.. always enjoyed your superb wip threats.. thanks a lot.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bloolight Posted December 29, 2007 Members Share Posted December 29, 2007 Wonderful pictures, even if it does remind me why I don't have the skills to do any of this myself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frets99 Posted December 29, 2007 Share Posted December 29, 2007 sticky this.Yes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RedsFan75 Posted February 21, 2008 Members Share Posted February 21, 2008 Bump up for folks who might need to see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members atrox Posted May 30, 2008 Author Members Share Posted May 30, 2008 bump for updates Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members hilikus8 Posted September 22, 2008 Members Share Posted September 22, 2008 subscription bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members atrox Posted October 3, 2008 Author Members Share Posted October 3, 2008 added another thread on top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaveAronow Posted October 3, 2008 Members Share Posted October 3, 2008 Good thread. Question: Best method for reattatching loose hanging binding? Superglue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members atrox Posted October 3, 2008 Author Members Share Posted October 3, 2008 Good thread.Question: Best method for reattatching loose hanging binding? Superglue? yup.. But on Nitro, be very careful with it though. It will melt that finish in a second. On Poly, you can just wipe excess off with acetone and it will be fine, but on a nitro guitar, I have had luck with modelers glue actually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mrbrown49 Posted October 3, 2008 Members Share Posted October 3, 2008 I reference these regularly. Thanks atrox! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaveAronow Posted October 3, 2008 Members Share Posted October 3, 2008 yup.. But on Nitro, be very careful with it though. It will melt that finish in a second. On Poly, you can just wipe excess off with acetone and it will be fine, but on a nitro guitar, I have had luck with modelers glue actually. It is the binding on a Taylor acoustic guitar on the neck, so it will actually be plastic to raw wood(side of neck, I believe. But, yeah, I will be careful with any excess or squeeze out from getting on the back of the neck or fretboard etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members MisterTV Posted October 3, 2008 Members Share Posted October 3, 2008 Good stuff indeed! I hadn't seen the "removing deep scratches" thread before. Is there anything that can be done for removing/filling in deep scratches in an acoustic? I got a pretty nasty 3" - 4" gouge on the upper bout of mine. If the right fix is anything that goes beyond a 3 on the pain-in-the-ass meter, I'll probably learn to accept it as "character"! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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