Fine tuner tailpiece on an LP

[bengerm77]

So I got this guitar:

 

And I find it frustrating that I have to tune it. Like between every song it goes slightly out of tune. And the tuning machines are so sensitive, and I have to tune down and then up to accommodate the nut and all of these little problems. You see, I'm used to playing on guitars with floyds and they always stay in tune, and are very easy to tune down at the bridge.

 

Do you guys dig the fine tuner tailpieces on LPs? Where can I get one? Should I get one? What says you?

[onelife]

It would help - especially if you are used to playing violin or using a floyd.

 

The only issue I have with them is the part of the string that wraps around the ball at the end is exposed and sometimes, if the wrap is sloppy, it cuts into the palm of my hand. There may be ways around this.

 

[Jkater]

I had it for a few years on my Gary Moore LP. It's expensive in Europe. Can't say anything bad about them but as I didn't really have issues with the kluson tuners, I went for a "normal" look for my LP wich meant for me putting back the stop TP and the pickguard (just for kicks).

 

 

[grumphh]

And I find it frustrating that I have to tune it. Should I get one? What says you?

 

If you have tuning issues right now they won't go away because of a new tailpiece - so no, do not get one.

 

Address the problem at the root which is either a sticky nut (or bridge - less likely though) or bad string wrapping technique.

 

 

Personally i use a wraping technique where the string clamps on itself, meaning that i only have to give it about half a turn on the peghead to get it up to tune - the high strings may need up to one full turn though.

 

You can see it best on the low strings where the low E actually just needs about a quarter turn to get up to standard tuning.

The starting point for this is with the peghead hole aligned horizontally with the guitar standing up:

 

 

 

 

After this, if it doesn't stay in tune the nut is usually the culprit.

[Doctor49]

So I got this guitar: And I find it frustrating that I have to tune it. Like between every song it goes slightly out of tune. And the tuning machines are so sensitive, and I have to tune down and then up to accommodate the nut and all of these little problems. You see, I'm used to playing on guitars with floyds and they always stay in tune, and are very easy to tune down at the bridge. Do you guys dig the fine tuner tailpieces on LPs? Where can I get one? Should I get one? What says you?

 

Cosidering that the stoptail bridge is only an anchor for the ball ends, I would take a look first at the nut.

This is most likely binding so if you play you end up out of tune. Try a rub of pencil lead in the slots or even a dab of sewing machine oil (gasp). If that improves things you need to get the nut dressed properly.

 

Its unlikely to be the tuners but a wrap technique as described is the second thing to try.

 

Finally you could listen to the bridge saddles when you tune the strings, sometimes they are a little rough and drag the strings.

 

Do all this before changing the tailpiece unless you just want to do it anyway!

[Crisco]

The TP-6 is only going to be a help if the rest of your set-up is good to go.

It won't stop the guitar from falling out of tune

it only helps you dial in the tuning when conventional tuners become fickle

and as in my case, I was overshooting/undershooting the >O

[Roy Brooks]

I recommend wrapping the strings over the tailpiece. If it still goes out of tune put some graphite in the nut slots.

[C-4]

So I got this guitar: And I find it frustrating that I have to tune it. Like between every song it goes slightly out of tune. And the tuning machines are so sensitive, and I have to tune down and then up to accommodate the nut and all of these little problems. You see, I'm used to playing on guitars with floyds and they always stay in tune, and are very easy to tune down at the bridge. Do you guys dig the fine tuner tailpieces on LPs? Where can I get one? Should I get one? What says you?

 

 

The previous posts are correct in that if you are not getting a good wrap on the strings, or if the nut is not cut correctly for the gauge of strings you have chosen, that all should be done first. I never had any problem with any tuners or nut issues, but that is just the way I was taught back when none of these products were available, circa; 1955.

 

I will say that whenever I change strings on any bridge which is stationary such as a Tun-O-Matic, or wraptail type used on some guitars that don't have a Tun-O-Matic type bridge, I have learned to use powdered graphite on the actual bridge saddle for each string and at the nut. I sprinkle the powdered graphite onto these places after having re-strung the guitar and pulled each string, then tuned it up. Otherwise, the powdered graphite would not hold in place under the string pressure in the saddle and nut grooves. As time goes by, it works it's way into crevases in the saddle metal and nut where they have been notched, and helps with a friction-free place where the string rides at the saddle and nut.

 

The tuner ratio on standard Klusons are about 12:1, which isn't that great nowadays. 18:1 makes it far easier to tune for minutely flat or sharp strings. Such tuners as an example are Planet Waves tuners, and some Grovers were 18:1 to name a couple. If all you had, once upon a time, was a standard Kluson, or standard Grover, also ratio'd at 12:1, you just got used to it and it never made any difference to you when tuning. You didn't know any differently as that is all everyone had.

 

I have used the Gibson TP-6 since 1976 when one was given to me by a Gibson rep. I love the accuracy and ease with which it re-tunes slightly off strings.

 

The price is more then twice what they used to cost, even 10 years ago, and the product has not changed at all. Still, I feel it is definitely worth it. Only after using a TP-6 for one job, did I realize how much it helped me keep perfectly tuned faster. It also helps when calibrating your guitar on a strobe tuner...a lot!

 

Please check your guitar, if it is not a Gibson to insure that the tailpiece will fit between the stop tail studs. Sometimes, non-Gibson LP's are not the exact same spacing.

 

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PTTP040/?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PPC&utm_campaign=guitars&utm_term=gibson_tp-6_tailpiece&adpos=1t1&gclid=CPSA3e60rqsCFcPt7Qod8ib53A

[muttznmongrelz]

I put one on my '82 LP Standard and it cleaned up all the muddiness, added individual string clarity and makes tuning a breeze.

 

 

1982 Gibson Les Paul Standard

[BoneNut]

 

I put one on my '82 LP Standard and it cleaned up all the muddiness, added individual string clarity and makes tuning a breeze. 1982 Gibson Les Paul Standard

 

 

That's amazing! If a bridge can do all that, I guess the aftermarket pup guys are out of business!

[muttznmongrelz]

As always..."Results May Vary".

[WRGKMC]

I used one back in the 70's on my Gold Top Deluxe. It being new and cool I liked it in the beginning.

I eventually switched back and found an improvement in the way the strings felt. Gibson got it right

in the beginning with the curved tailpiece. It keeps the string tension even across the neck radius.

A flat tailpiece just does something wierd to the string tension in my book and the fine tuning just

gives more tuning issues. If you had locking tuners on the other end then it may help but decent

klusons dont have tuning issues.

 

What I do on my current paul is feed the strings in the opposite direction through the tailpiece then over the top

the way Les Paul originally designed the tail to work. I'd only do that on a worn tail as mine is because the strings will

chew up the finish on a tailpiece, but it does make for a nice feel.

You can lock the tail down and have the feel of a higher tail. Worth trying if you've never done it before.

[SDshirtman]

I put one on my LP right after I first got it then took it off a few months later. Just recently I put it back on and I really like it. It just makes it easier to fine tune.

[kayd_mon]

 

That's amazing! If a bridge can do all that, I guess the aftermarket pup guys are out of business!

 

 

You know, I thought that but didn't want to say it.

 

To the OP, I'll add to the noise that says the tailpiece won't solve your tuning issues. The only thing it will do is compensate for tuners that are somehow unable to adjust very precisely, and regular guitar tuners are pretty good at raising/lowering pitch in minute increments easily, unlike violin tuners.

[Pope on a Rope]

The issues you describe are not really problems, they're just minor maintenance and set up issues. You're just more accustomed to dealing with Floyd equipped guitars which have their own set up and maintenance issues as well. Someone unaccustomed to Floyds might consider those issues to be problems for lack of experience.

 

Make sure that your strings are wrapped properly, lube the nut slots and stretch the strings whenever you replace them. With any guitar that doesn't have a locking nut you should drop down further than you need to go when a string is sharp. and then tune up to prevent binding in the nutslots, especially with the wound strings.

 

The TP-6 is mainly for convenience. It doesn't fix anything.

 

I have two guitars with that tailpiece and I like them because they're easier to tune on the fly.

[jpnyc]

If you don

[Alex_SF]

 

 

 

The TP-6 is a little easier to adjust quickly (like, "in the middle of a song" quickly) than the headstock tuners, however.

 

The one on my Firebird saved my ass at a gig this weekend, when I forgot to tune the bottom string back up from Drop-D tuning. Shortly into the next song, I realized what was wrong, and I was able to avoid the bottom string during that song, but I was freaking out because: (a) I knew we were going straight into another song afterward that needed the bottom string to be tuned to E, and (b) I was carrying all the guitar parts for the song we were in while the other guitarist played keys, so I couldn't really drop out, kick the tuner pedal on, and tune the string back up.

 

Panic really set in as I realized I couldn't effectively communicate to the other four people NOT to do the straight-through song transition, and having a big pause between songs would have ruined the effect of playing them back-to-back anyway.

 

So I took advantage of the few spots where I could use my right hand to tune the bottom string up a little bit at a time for a fraction of a second, carefully tested the bottom string when I got it close, tweaked it a tiny bit --- and by the end of the song it was close enough to go into the next song without a problem.

 

Love the TP-6.

 

But yes, it will not solve tuning issues caused by bad tuners, sticky nut or bridge, or poor string wrapping technique. Solve the fundamental problems first -- your guitar should be able to go several songs without having to retune. The TP-6 is for on-the-fly adjustments when you can't free up your fretting hand.

[kayd_mon]

^^ I think I can see how that's useful, then.

[Psychotronic]

I have one on one of my LP's, and I think it kills the tone somewhat. YMMV.