Jump to content

Replacement Parts Advice? Strat neck and Floyd


FoonkySteve

Recommended Posts

  • Members

Howdy McFolks!:thu:

 

So hopefully a Xaviere JT-60 jag style, will be with me on monday.

 

I will be doing my 1st bit of modding with this one i.e, replacing the neck and installing a floyd. Before i pull the trigger on either, i just wanted to check with my fellow experienced forumites, that everything will fit.

 

The guitar body - http://www.guitarfetish.com/XV-JT60-Twin-Humbuckers-Vintage-Sunburst-Alder-Body_p_1108.html

 

Scale Length- 25 1/2"

Width at Nut- 1 5/8"

Depth at Nut- 7/8"

Depth at Heel- 1 1/16"

Width at Heel- 2 3/16"

Depth at 12th Fret- 13/16"

Average Weight- 7.25 lbs.

 

Mighty Mite Neck MM2902fcr - http://www.anthillmusic.com/StoreFrontProfiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=155275&c=156043&i=233549188

 

Specs:

Floyd Rose cut = 42mm

Scale length = 25.5"

Peg holes = 3/8"

Heel thickness = 1"

Heel width = 2 3/16"

Frets = 22 Medium jumbo

Radius = 9.5" - 12"

 

 

Trem - http://www.guitarfetish.com/NEW-Heavy-Duty-Dual-Locking-Floyd-Rose-Trem-BRASSSTEEL_p_518.html

"Fits well on studs spaced from 71-76mm apart. heavy duty thick hardened STEEL studs with bronze inserts- Solid BRASS sustain block- 31mm deep so this fits every guitar!" "Ultra thick hardened steel trem arm, four steel springs, R3 (43mm wide) Top Mount string lock nut"

 

As always - big thanks to anyone kind enough, to check this out:thu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

oooo
:love:
I can't wait to see this come out
:thu:
I'd love to see a floyd on a Jag. I don't think ive ever seen it before.

 

 

Thanks man! Im excited! I hope it all works out being my 1st mod an all.

 

Speaking of which........ another shameless bump:cop:

 

Anyone got any advice if the parts on the 1st post will all fit?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

The neck is cut for a 42mm R2 nut. The nut that comes with the floyd is an R3.

The only thing you need to find out is the post spacing on the jag. You may have to do some shimming under the neck, but that is to be expected.


Scott

 

 

Thanks a lot for your reply scott, i really appreciate your time.

 

Im told the Guitar WILL be with me tomorrow:lol: I'll measure the post spacing then.

 

Would i be better to go for a more compatible floyd? One with an R2 nut? I'm pretty much set on that neck, seems to be the best value for what im after.

 

As you can tell, im pretty new this:facepalm:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Would i be better to go for a more compatible floyd? One with an R2 nut? I'm pretty much set on that neck, seems to be the best value for what im after.

/QUOTE]

 

No you just need a top mount R2 nut. Maybe get some floyd saddle shims and shim the 2 E string saddles with 2 each and the A and B with 1 each. That works for Original floyds with neck that have compound radius of 10-16". You may need to fiddle with it to see what you like.

 

Scott

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Thanks a lot guys for the info/help/advice.

 

This project sounds alot more complicated than i had first anticipated. It seems it isn't a case of get guitar, stick new neck on, get the axe out and start hacking it to bits until a floyd fits then?

 

As far as the floyd routing part goes, i am not brave enough to attempt this myself, i plan on getting my local tech/luthier to do this. Hopefully he will know what to do with all this 'shimming' and whatnot.

 

So it apprears that; yes. I have, bitten off more than i can chew:facepalm:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

No you just need a top mount R2 nut. Maybe get some floyd saddle shims and shim the 2 E string saddles with 2 each and the A and B with 1 each. That works for Original floyds with neck that have compound radius of 10-16". You may need to fiddle with it to see what you like.


Scott

 

 

Ok. Cool. Sorry i have to ask some more extreme noob questions:facepalm:

 

I just have to make sure ive got this right.

 

So with the above neck mm2902 being already prepared for a floyd nut, it needs to have an R2 sized nut? Yeah? Thats cool. Now with the bridge i have chosen that comes equipped with an R3 nut, would that mean that the strings wouldn't align correctly up the fretboard if have an R2 on there? because the bridge is intended for use with an R3?

 

And even after i get the said bridge, nut and neck, there is still likely to be some shimming needed on the bridge? Is that pretty much standard practice when doing these things?

 

I had assumed (more than likely wrongly), that with the neck being preped for a floyd already, it would be a straight forward(ish) switch?

 

Again apologies for my noobishness:facepalm:

 

After this project, i think im gonna stick to 'playing' guitar, im no good at this other stuff:blah:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

those trems look exactly like a Gotoh Floyd. I wonder what the major difference is between the two, how well it's made.


Evertime I read the write up on any GFS part that sits next to the pic I have to chuckle a little at how much GFS hypes their own stuff up.

 

 

Hey Pennywise, can you offer any advice? Ive seen the stunning job you made of the frankenstrat:thu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Hey Pennywise, can you offer any advice? Ive seen the stunning job you made of the frankenstrat:thu:

 

 

I've played Original Floyds for years, and I've tried many "licenced" versions on several guitars and for a lot of reasons I keep going back to the originals. Reasons why? Fine tuners never worked right or smooth enough, the baseplates were weak, crappy metals thoughout, some copies just sounded bad altogether, pivot edges wear out too soon, etc...

 

I haven't tried a Gotoh floyd yet but I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on one with my next partscaster build since hearing so many good things about them, they have the same pivot post distance apart as an OFR so it would be an easy "drop in" replacement and they are $50 cheaper.

 

My favorite trem is an original 80's german floyd with an upgraded brass sustain block. Stays in tune, added sustain and more beefy tone.

 

Another great bridge is the Original Ibanez Edge trem. they work well too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Ok. Cool. Sorry i have to ask some more extreme noob questions:facepalm:


I just have to make sure ive got this right.


So with the above neck mm2902 being already prepared for a floyd nut, it needs to have an R2 sized nut? Yeah? Thats cool. Now with the bridge i have chosen that comes equipped with an R3 nut, would that mean that the strings wouldn't align correctly up the fretboard if have an R2 on there? because the bridge is intended for use with an R3?


And even after i get the said bridge, nut and neck, there is still likely to be some shimming needed on the bridge? Is that pretty much standard practice when doing these things?


I had assumed (more than likely wrongly), that with the neck being preped for a floyd already, it would be a straight forward(ish) switch?


Again apologies for my noobishness:facepalm:


After this project, i think im gonna stick to 'playing' guitar, im no good at this other stuff:blah:

 

If you don't route the body, there's a good chance you'll have to shim the neck. Shimming changes the angle of the neck/body joint, which is necessary if you 'top-mount' the Floyd like this:

 

2102647196_b0e23e0537.jpg

 

If you rout the body and recess the tremolo, there's a good chance you might not have to shim the neck much. A recessed Floyd sits much lower on the body, closer to the same height as a Strat-style tremolo thanks to the routing, and looks like this:

 

licFR.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members


If you rout the body and recess the tremolo, there's a good chance you might not have to shim the neck much. A recessed Floyd sits much lower on the body, closer to the same height as a Strat-style tremolo thanks to the routing, and looks like this:


licFR.jpg

 

Thanks Poolshark. The body will definately be routed. Not by me, my local guitar tech is the man for the job!

 

Thanks again:thu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

I personally tend to prefer non-recessed Floyds myself, but that's not for everybody. My reasons are, well, first... I'm never really inclined to pull up on the bar. Just not my thing. LOL Second, if I break a string, the guitar will stay in tune on the other strings. Third, I like to do a lot of doublestop bends and whatnot, so sometimes I'm playing two or three strings while only actually bending one. With a recessed trem, the pitch on the unbent strings goes flat while you bend the other string. With a non-recessed trem, you can set the spring tension tight enough so that doesn't happen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • Members

 

those trems look exactly like a Gotoh Floyd. I wonder what the major difference is between the two, how well it's made.


Evertime I read the write up on any GFS part that sits next to the pic I have to chuckle a little at how much GFS hypes their own stuff up.

If you think that looks like a Gotoh Floyd then you've never seen a Gotoh Floyd.

 

However, it looks exactly like a Ping Floyd. Although, that's because it is a Ping Floyd...

 

Edit: again, zombie thread reply... fml

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Probably. OP doesn't sound like he had any idea what he was doing.

 

Howdy Doodz!

 

Indeed the project has been on hold for about...... 2 YEARS! :eek:

 

Yeah, another one of my hair brained schemes that didn't get finished. :facepalm: I have all the parts ready to go bar one; the sustainiac stealth pick-up system. at

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...