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Can't keep in tune when using the Fender vintage tremolo


Tremolo Arm

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I recently posted a new series of video in which I cover how to mod a strat in all its parts to achieve a perfect tuning stability, including solving the bending problem. Maybe you could find this interesting.

 

I am not sure i can post the link here but I try:

 

 

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I've always had problems with standard Fender trems and stability. A couple of years back I replaced the standard trem with a Wilkinson trem - that has the bevel on the base plate in a difference place from the fender unit. Suddenly I can use the trem and tuning is stable.

 

But yes, I agree with all the comments about a properly cut nut (I don't trust 'pros' - had to fix too many 'pro setup' issues). The 2 outer screws on the trem should be wound down to touch the base plate then backed off 1/4 turn. The 4 inner ones should be wound out an additional 1/2 turn. Make sure strings are pre-stretched and the ball ends firmly seated in the trem block: this is also why bullet-ends were invented, because they can move around as tension changes.

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I recently posted a new series of video in which I cover how to mod a strat in all its parts to achieve a perfect tuning stability, including solving the bending problem. Maybe you could find this interesting.


I am not sure i can post the link here but I try:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgfMyJ76p4o

 

Hi Frudua!

 

Your videos are pretty famous in this forum (& in this thread, read earlier posts! ) I have used your string stretching idea, & it really made a difference .

Welcome!! :thu:

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Hi Frudua!


Your videos are pretty famous in this forum (& in this thread, read earlier posts! ) I have used your string stretching idea, & it really made a difference .

Welcome!!
:thu:

 

Thank you fo the welcome. Just a a question (I am not a forum expert and this recently costed me a ban in Talkbass ;). Should I state under my name above left which I am a commercial user? How do I do this?

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Thank you fo the welcome. Just a a question (I am not a forum expert and this recently costed me a ban in Talkbass
;)
. Should I state under my name above left which I am a commercial user? How do I do this?

Sorry, I see I may have misunderstood this question (see my PM). Not sure that you have to disclose what you do, but I am not sure how to edit description under your name.

You can always put it in your Sig, as I mentioned in my PM

 

cheers

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Well, Temolo Arm (OP)....any updates? Find the problem yet?

 

(From what you describe, it does sound like a nut issue to me. I agree with others here. If you are already lubing it, it might need to be filed/cut. I lube the nut with a pencil every string change, on all my guitars. That's it. They all stay in tune just fine, including my Strat.)

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the tuning technique vid was cool, but most of it is in the setup.

 

 

What I would have mentioned has mostly already been covered,

 

A) lube the nut - I'm not usually in a hurry to do much else with a nut other than give it some lube and let it work out some of its own kinks. ;)

B) Backing out the inner screws, with outer screws just touching the plate - check

 

But there's a third I haven't seen mentioned.

 

C) You say you only have 3 springs on there? Well, that only works well with 9-42 gauge strings. Once you go up in string gauge, go to 5 springs. I'm stubborn and usually only go up to 4 since I like the 10-46 gauge on strats (just one step up from typical stock Fender strats) and prefer a softer vibrato feel. Once you have 4 or more strings on there, you have a better equilibrium of forces which will help it return to middle. Although you can pull 3 strings tighter, it just doesn't quite have the tensile strength of 4 or more.

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On my real-life (non-RI) 1963 Strat, I had the trem system thorough worked over around 15 years back. The tech who did it (a) installed a carefully-cut new nut, (b) actually REMOVED the middle four screws so it's a 2-point system now and © drilled out the string tunnels in the trem block so that the ball-ends anchor far further in than standard.

 

Works pretty good -- not quite as slick as the LSR nut/Sprezel locking tuners/American Standard 2-point on my Jeff Beck sig, but close enough for rock and roll ...

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I recently posted a new series of video in which I cover how to mod a strat in all its parts to achieve a perfect tuning stability, including solving the bending problem. Maybe you could find this interesting.


I am not sure i can post the link here but I try:


 

 

That's a great series of videos.

 

I'm not a big fan of the first one where you tune to where the strings get stuck in the nut and go out of tune when you bend. That seems kind of useless.

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Turn the 4 middle trem screws counterclockwise for 1/2 or 3/4 a turn if you haven't done already

 

 

Thank you for this pearl of wisdom. It has made all the difference in the world with keeping my strat in tune. ITs amazing that a little thing like that can make all the difference.

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If your string tree is flush to the top of the headstock, you may want to put a spacer (1/16") between the tree and the headstock. The tree may be so far down that it is causing binding. I have put a spacer like that on all of my strats and the tuning problem disappeared.

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Fantastic Frudua. Great videos.


Do you know if anyone sells a vintage style trem that is already modified as you suggest?

 

 

Good question. Not in ALL its parts... In fact, to gather al the specs I wish to have on a tremolo I build mine by hand (but I am a bit of a crazy maniacal guy as you guess...)

 

But there are a few which are 80% ok and I like a lot anyway.

 

The Gotoh/Wilkinson VSV tremolo for example is cool. The one on the Shredder shown in the video is more basic but also pretty cool. It has slides for the saddles (to keep them stable) deeper strings inserts, big sustain block and the price is convenient.

 

It sounds good also.

 

Consider that I like the 6 screws better than the 2 pivots ones.

 

Write if any.

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That's a great series of videos.


I'm not a big fan of the first one where you tune to where the strings get stuck in the nut and go out of tune when you bend. That seems kind of useless.

 

 

Yes, you mean what's the use of this if then I have to push the tremolo arm to put it back in tune?

 

This has been the buzz on this video but it's actually a misunderstanding.

 

First consider that to get so much out of tune in that video, if you notice, I bent the strings really A LOT. Much more than it is normally required. If you try this method and bend mornally you rarely will have to touch the tremolo arm to keep the tuning.

 

Then keep in mind that the guitar was off the wall. Never setup at all.

The more the guitar is properyl setup (like shown in the other 5 videos) the less you will need that tremolo arm push trick to go back in tune.

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Good question. Not in ALL its parts... In fact, to gather al the specs I wish to have on a tremolo I build mine by hand (but I am a bit of a crazy maniacal guy as you guess...)


But there are a few which are 80% ok and I like a lot though.


The Gotoh/Wilkinson VSV tremolo for example is cool. The one on the Shredder shown in the video is more basic but also pretty cool. It has slides for the saddles (to keep them stable) deeper strings inserts, big sustain block and the price is convenient.


It sounds good also.


Consider that I like the 6 screws better than the 2 pivots ones.


Write if any.

 

I watched all your videos today and loved them. I've been using pretty much the same techniques for years and I never have tuning problems.

 

What I found very interesting is that the modifications you point out for a Fender 6 pt. bridge makes it very similar to a PRS bridge. PRS trems stay in tune beautifully and your vids show why they do.

It never occurred to me to notch the pivot screws and sharpen the knife edge of the pivot holes in the bridge plate on a Strat trem.

 

Excellent job. :thu::thu:

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