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Blowing up the subs!


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So I have these 400 watts subs 8ohms, wondering if I should run bridge and Daisy chain 2nd sub, I will be using the PLX3002.

 

Now I talked to two Sound Techs and one said do it just run amp half way and turn on the 50 filter on amp

 

The other said dont do it you will blow them up, get the right amp for the speaker and dont go more than 800 watts per side.

 

My question is who is right?

 

I know there is supose to be many people on this site that have knowledge and experience about this situation, please chim in and give me your thoughts?:rolleyes:

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So I have these 400 watts subs 8ohms, wondering if I should run bridge and Daisy chain 2nd sub, I will be using the PLX3002.


Now I talked to two Sound Techs and one said do it just run amp half way and turn on the 50 filter on amp


The other said dont do it you will blow them up, get the right amp for the speaker and dont go more than 800 watts per side.


My question is who is right?


I know there is supose to be many people on this site that have knowledge and experience about situation, please chim in and give me your thoughts?
:rolleyes:

 

500 watts, maybe 600w is about as high at you'll want to go. :thu:

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And yes to the filter. But, 50hz might be a little high. Depending on the sub, most are good to about 40Hz or so.


As for the input knob on the amp...here we go again...

 

 

The input knob doesn't actually control the power, it just controls the gain of the amp (input level.)

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So I have these 400 watts subs 8ohms, wondering if I should run bridge and Daisy chain 2nd sub, I will be using the PLX3002.


Now I talked to two Sound Techs and one said do it just run amp half way and turn on the 50 filter on amp


The other said dont do it you will blow them up, get the right amp for the speaker and dont go more than 800 watts per side.


My question is who is right?


I know there is supose to be many people on this site that have knowledge and experience about this situation, please chim in and give me your thoughts?
:rolleyes:

PLX3002 is what, about 550-600/channel @8 ohms? That should be about right, or at the high side of right. But, what the heck is a 400 watt sub? Help us out a little. That in itself means little or nothing.

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PLX3002 is what, about 550-600/channel @8 ohms? That should be about right, or at the high side of right. But, what the heck is a 400 watt sub? Help us out a little. That in itself means little or nothing.

 

 

If it's a Behringer sub (400 watts RMS) then no more than 500watts unless you want a new coffee table.

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If 400 watts is the subs' continuous rating, the program rating is likely 800 watts and the peak (to avoid) is 1600 watts. Unfortinately amplifiers don't have hard stops on their wattage output, they can average with noise and clipping FAR above their rated power. I would run the PLX3002 in stereo (or parallel mono, single input) mode to the subs. That gives them 550 to 625 watts (compared to other amps, noise & test signal dependent). Enough to make them perform well without wasting power as heat energy or causing what is called power compression from that.

 

All that said, the above is based on general specs. Depending on the model sub, some can handle the extra power better than others. Speaker ratings are sometimes conservatively pessimistic and sometimes advertising hyped optimistic. For example, I tend to trust the wattage rating from Yorkville and from Peavey in particular because of the way they stand behind their products. AND I tend to trust MYSELF NOT to push the sound hard enough to distort and possibly cause damage to MY speakers.

 

Boomerweps

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What 400W subs ... continuous ... program ... or peak? Since you didn't name them it's up to you to understand what the rating really means. Basically you shouldn't exceed whatever the rating is in whatever terms you are using.

 

 

This should explain better ...

http://www.peavey.com/support/technotes/poweramps/HOW_MUCH_POWER.pdf

 

Remember that usually ... amplifiers don't kill speakers, people kill speakers

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Hi does an eq with low cut filter help save the speaker when driven hard?

 

I have small unit, 2 ev 1502 they are 200 watts at 8 Oms and the amp I have is QSC USA 850 which is 425 watts at 4 ohms and 270 watts at 8 ohms.

1 Mackie 15 powered sub, hook into booth out.

 

Sometimes when I play a song like baby got back, tops distorts, would using the low cut on my Behringer EQ help the tops from freaking out?

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The first question: behringer subs are 400w RMS? I'd only put 400w MAX into that speaker considering who makes it. PLX3002 in stereo is too much with one per channel, 2 is about right...

 

The low cut may help depending on what material you're putting into the speaker. If the EV's are maxing out then you need more speakers (not amp). Are these used with a sub (behringer)? If so, what is your crossover? (please don't say behringer EQ)

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The first question: behringer subs are 400w RMS? I'd only put 400w MAX into that speaker considering who makes it. PLX3002 in stereo is too much with one per channel, 2 is about right...


The low cut may help depending on what material you're putting into the speaker. If the EV's are maxing out then you need more speakers (not amp). Are these used with a sub (behringer)? If so, what is your crossover? (please don't say behringer EQ)

 

 

Behringer subs are 400w RMS, but will take 500w just fine.

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Behringer subs are 400w RMS, but will take 500w just fine.

 

Yes, unless they don't. My bass player has a set and I certaibly wouldn't slam them that hard consistently. They actually sound pretty good but they get a bit wheezy when start throwing that kinda wattage at them.

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So I have these 400 watts subs 8ohms, wondering if I should run bridge and Daisy chain 2nd sub, I will be using the PLX3002.


:

 

 

 

I think that amp is like 3000 watts at 4 ohms bridged... do you know a good speaker repair shop?

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Oh, not Behringer I got some off brand, 15' folded horn with a 400watt Caaaarvin! I'm not sure if that is good of bad both names sound horrible to me?

 

 

 

The PLX3002 will do 3000w @ 4ohms bridged, which means 1500w per driver. Or it will do 550w per channel @ 8ohms. Those are your choices. The latter is a bit more than RMS, and should be plenty to drive these subs. Running bridged puts 3.5x the RMS rating...pretty dangerous, and completely unnecessary.

 

Engage the amp's limiters, and set the HPF to 50Hz if you don't have the subs' resonant frequency...30Hz could be lower than the RF and would lead to problems.

 

You will not be 'underpowering' the subs, and if you don't get the volume you desire, it means you need more subs and power, not just more power. While you can run it bridged, don't so this unless you're willing and able to repair or replace blown drivers and, in some cases, a damaged amp (a blown driver can short, which could cause a failure in the amp...not a huge possibility, but something to consider.

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Folded horn cabinets can be especially hard on a driver, especially asome off brand cabinet that is "probably" not correctly designed. The design of a folded horn cabinet is not trivial by any means.

 

I would not exceed 400 watts and I would probably derate the power to ~300 watts with a limiter to be sure. The Carvin driver (stamped frame?) is probably only a 250 watt RMS driver anyway (regardless of what the marketing says), so it would be wise to be very careful.

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Here is a shot of my equipment to give you an idea of what I work from. Sorry about the mess in its mostly the boxes I carry the gear in, at a gig I hide the carring casses.
:cop:

All I see are some home stereo speakers. Where are the folded horn bins?

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