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Arbitrary Wattage Values


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Did I spell that right? Oh well, we're past that.

 

Anyway... can I just add up the wattage of my QSC speaker system and say "Oh I've got a 2600 Watt system."

 

Does it work that way?

 

If someone asks you the power of your system how do you calculate it?

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Did I spell that right? Oh well, we're past that.


Anyway... can I just add up the wattage of my QSC speaker system and say "Oh I've got a 2600 Watt system."


Does it work that way?



If someone asks you the power of your system how do you calculate it?

 

 

Wattage is one thing, and sensitivity (spl per watt) is another. You also have to be wary about power-ratings, in the sense that many manufacturers these days, are simply referring to the '"power" of the "amp-module" in the cabinet, and not how many watts the speaker is actually seeing.

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With a tape measure?

 

 

In the old days you go could just break out the tape and be done with it. However, some manufacturers have taken to artificially inflating the "Length" numbers to appear bigger by changing the start point of the measurement in question. Dhickinger, for instance started basing their measurements by starting from 2.25" inside the opposing orifice. This led to a new psuedo standard of listing the value as +/- 3", which lasted for a while until Dickie started listing their lengths as +/- 10", and all published length specs have been pretty much meaningless ever since. Unless you really see them side by side, it's kinna hard to really tell, and I'm just not all that much into looking anyway.

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"Oh I've got a 2600 Watt system"

 

 

Make sure to add in your monitor power. Lighting, too. Oh, and use "peak to peak" wattage.

 

And next time you're loading up, throw a toaster into one of your roadcases, too. That'll really pump up the total wattage of your system. Plus, toast is tasty.

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Make sure to add in your monitor power. Lighting, too. Oh, and use "peak to peak" wattage.


And next time you're loading up, throw a toaster into one of your roadcases, too. That'll really pump up the total wattage of your system. Plus, toast is tasty.

 

Lemme see,,,, P/A,,,,and the word "toast",,,hmmmmm,,,,, mebbe not.

 

I know, :idea: Let's add "power-cord ratings.

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I dunno on this but seems like the system you'd be providing should be "properly powered" and thats about it. If you're showing up with 2 over 2 per side then wattage would be different than 1 over 1. And I'd rather have 2 over 2 if the amps are properly matched to the cabs. But if it's 1 over 1 and everything is bridged and rated peak I know there's a problem. So maybe instead of using wattage you should be looking at box type, coverage, expected SPL @ distance?

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Make sure to add in your monitor power. Lighting, too. Oh, and use "peak to peak" wattage.


And next time you're loading up, throw a toaster into one of your roadcases, too. That'll really pump up the total wattage of your system. Plus, toast is tasty.

 

I do love some good toast. :lol:

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