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custom and DIY cabs, post them!


pissdrunx

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a nice spin this topic took!!
:)

is it worth doing those lego looking joints with birch ply boards? How about the front baffle, would you just bolt and glue it to the inner frame or route some slots for it in the outer boards?

 

 

you can do it either way. glue joints are INCREDIBLY strong-- but you need to make sure they're airtight-- so you either cut well, or caulk the inside. locking joints are great any way you 'cut it' (pun intended).. but they're not totally necessary. you can do the same thing (which is to increase gluing area) with a half lap dado joint, but for the abuse it'll take... regular lap joints work fine if you put internal bracing at the corners.

 

for the front baffle.. same thing-- bracing or a dado is great-- a dado will let you get a little better rigidity, but not enough to really make a sonically gargantuan difference..

 

i usually use 1x1" maple or poplar stripping that i glue and screw to the panels, and use them in the corners. that way, you have fasteners holding them down, and also a place to screw in perpendicular panels as well.

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I really enjoy building cabs. I am somewhat strange i guess though, and i like to do as much as possible without power tools, including cutting the box joints. You get a looser, more "homemade" vibe from the finished product though if you are merely semi-skilled, as i am, with woodworking! I prefer stained, varnished finishes to tolex as well. I just use brushes to do mine.

 

First i built this one:

 

2x12onendie8.jpg12196new2x12speakercab0qy1.jpg

 

Which is a 2x12, convertible to open back, and only loosely based on known good dimensions. I like it best detuned, as a 1x12. It makes a pretty decent noise, especially for cleans and sort-of-cleans.

 

But seeing as i was only using it as a 1x12, i figured i would try another cab, smaller, just for 1x12 use, and for increased ease of transport and storage, so i built this:

2199new1x12cabbuild006sww6.jpg

 

Which works about the same, honestly, a little less bass than the old detuned one, but not enough to make the physical size difference up IMO.

 

Over the course of building these and some other ones, i have determined that overall, i just do not like solid pine for guitar cabs. It moves around too much, and compared to birch or even particle board, the projection and bass tightness is really lacking. The next one i do will be standard old birch ply, for certain.

 

That said, if you choose to mess with solid pine anyhow, though i would not advise it, as said, the stuff i used for these is pretty convenient to work with. The first one is considered "paint grade" shelving, and the second is considered "stain grade". Both are comprised of multiple pieces of pine, and will resist many of the solid board pine's warping and shrinking downfalls. Though, like i said, still might not give the results sought sonically, especially if you intend to run a lot of bass or distortion through the cab.

 

-chris

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I really enjoy building cabs. I am somewhat strange i guess though, and i like to do as much as possible
without
power tools, including cutting the box joints. You get a looser, more "homemade" vibe from the finished product though if you are merely semi-skilled, as i am, with woodworking! I prefer stained, varnished finishes to tolex as well. I just use brushes to do mine.


First i built this one:


2x12onendie8.jpg12196new2x12speakercab0qy1.jpg

Which is a 2x12, convertible to open back, and only loosely based on known good dimensions. I like it best detuned, as a 1x12. It makes a pretty decent noise, especially for cleans and sort-of-cleans.


But seeing as i was only using it as a 1x12, i figured i would try another cab, smaller, just for 1x12 use, and for increased ease of transport and storage, so i built this:

2199new1x12cabbuild006sww6.jpg

Which works about the same, honestly, a little less bass than the old detuned one, but not enough to make the physical size difference up IMO.


Over the course of building these and some other ones, i have determined that overall, i just do not like solid pine for guitar cabs. It moves around too much, and compared to birch or even particle board, the projection and bass tightness is really lacking. The next one i do will be standard old birch ply, for certain.


That said, if you choose to mess with solid pine anyhow, though i would not advise it, as said, the stuff i used for these is pretty convenient to work with. The first one is considered "paint grade" shelving, and the second is considered "stain grade". Both are comprised of multiple pieces of pine, and will resist many of the solid board pine's warping and shrinking downfalls. Though, like i said, still might not give the results sought sonically, especially if you intend to run a lot of bass or distortion through the cab.


-chris

 

:eek::love::eek:

 

Those look amazing! Nice work!

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How does porting work in a guitar cab? useful?

 

 

I like it, but usually they build the cabs around the speaker for optimal sound, so you'd better be sure of which speakers you want.

 

I like porting but its kind of an aquired taste, there's more bass and projection but they can get woofy.

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I like it, but usually they build the cabs around the speaker for optimal sound, so you'd better be sure of which speakers you want.


I like porting but its kind of an aquired taste, there's more bass and projection but they can get woofy.

 

 

yeah.. you really do have to model the output of the cabinet WITH a speaker, or it's squirrely. you usually need a tighter suspension on the cab with a leaner bass output to make for a BALANCED output, because the port reinforces bass. if it's tuned wrong, it'll fart worse than a gringo on a refrito bender...

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I have a grill cloth on the front now.. I thought the speaker grills might look good, but I didnt really like it.. 13 ply voidless baltic birch throughout..


2x12.jpg

 

Very classy. :thu: You and Chris D have done well...

 

If your cabs are filet mignon, my 1x12 is a quarter pounder with cheese. :facepalm:

 

All I did is take the guts out of a Peavey Basic 112 and cover it with astroturf...

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ok, so no porting or solid wood for me:)

13 ply birch and I will see about joints. One thing...how do you make the front of the cab like chris_d did, you know the frame in fornt of the grill, how does that get atached, just bolted from the inside of the baffle? And if so, how to do it snug enough not to rattle, and possibly detachable in case of a torn grill cloth?

 

Thanx for all the replys!

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All I did is take the guts out of a Peavey Basic 112 and cover it with astroturf...

 

 

I don't know man, that astroturf is IMo a stroke of brilliance. Don't know why, but I have always loved that {censored}. I woud totally rock a astroturfd halfstack. In fact, i have a {censored}ty particleboard Crate 4x12 in the basement that might just have a date with some all season indoor/outdoor faux grass floor covering in the somewhat near future... I could also recover my backup SS Peavey Transtube head, come to think of it... That would {censored}ing rock.

 

-chris

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ok, so no porting or solid wood for me:)

13 ply birch and I will see about joints. One thing...how do you make the front of the cab like chris_d did, you know the frame in fornt of the grill, how does that get atached, just bolted from the inside of the baffle? And if so, how to do it snug enough not to rattle, and possibly detachable in case of a torn grill cloth?


Thanx for all the replys!

 

 

i won't speak for chris-- but looks more like something to hold in the grillcloth rather than a brace for the baffle!

 

put yer 1x1 on the inside of the baffle set back the width you want it, and screw the baffle in from the inside of the cab having also glued it, and yer golden.. do all your joinery INSIDE the cab.

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ok, so no porting or solid wood for me:)

13 ply birch and I will see about joints. One thing...how do you make the front of the cab like chris_d did, you know the frame in fornt of the grill, how does that get atached, just bolted from the inside of the baffle? And if so, how to do it snug enough not to rattle, and possibly detachable in case of a torn grill cloth?


Thanx for all the replys!

 

 

Both of my cabs were done differently for the front frame. My way is not ideal, because it somewhat inefficiently utilizes the dimension of the cab, and cuts down on how much space there is inside compared to outside, with respect to overall cab depth, between baffle and back.

 

A better way than what i have done here, is to do it like Emperor cabs does, with a pocket screw jig and pocket screws. There are photos somewhere in internetland that show the internal construction details on those some. I don't think i have them on this computer to post though.

 

-chris

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510bfdh7%2BPL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

 

super easy way to work... i don't use kreg jigs myself.. but i know a few folks who have, and they're pretty damn tough. i guess being drilled into doing it the way i do is just from the way trim carpenters do it.. but theres a lotta ways to skin a cat!

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i won't speak for chris-- but looks more like something to hold in the grillcloth rather than a brace for the baffle!


put yer 1x1 on the inside of the baffle set back the width you want it, and screw the baffle in from the inside of the cab having also glued it, and yer golden.. do all your joinery INSIDE the cab.

 

 

Correct, in my cabs, i was building around the dimensions of some salvaged Zenith grillecloth i like the pattern of, so the frames became neccesary to make up the full front area space. I have the grillecloth attached in back to the frame, then the frame is connected to the outside of the 1x1 framing. The baffle is then attached to the inside. As mentioned though, it means that almost two inches of interior space is not being used for the actual internal sound space, which makes the cab deeper than it really needs to be for its possessed sonic capabilities.

 

-chris

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I don't know man, that astroturf is IMo a stroke of brilliance. Don't know why, but I have always loved that {censored}. I woud totally rock a astroturfd halfstack. In fact, i have a {censored}ty particleboard Crate 4x12 in the basement that might just have a date with some all season indoor/outdoor faux grass floor covering in the somewhat near future... I could also recover my backup SS Peavey Transtube head, come to think of it... That would {censored}ing rock.


-chris

 

 

Oh wow, an astroturf 4x12... you would be my hero if you did it!

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i won't speak for chris-- but looks more like something to hold in the grillcloth rather than a brace for the baffle!


put yer 1x1 on the inside of the baffle set back the width you want it, and screw the baffle in from the inside of the cab having also glued it, and yer golden.. do all your joinery INSIDE the cab.

 

 

I`m aware that it`s just cosmetic more or less, and that the baffle is attached to the inner frame, I just like the way it looks.

 

You got me all pumped up, and I can`t wait for me to star building one, but it might be a while, theres just not much free time, and all my tools are at my parents house which means weekends only.

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chris d, what did you use to finish your cabzes? they look glorious.

 

Thanks man. That first one (2x12) was a whole bunch of experimentation. I actually started with RIT clothes dye dissolved in alcohol and filtered to pull the salts out, which was sort of a mini half-disaster, but did work o.k. for dying the cab yellow as a base. Then i messed with water-based stains, which i hate, then i cleaned it up and moved to my favorite, oil-based stains, just basic Minwax stuff, brown/walnut for the faux sunburst, and then either red mahogany or red cherry (i don't recall 100%) for the overall reddish tint. That one was clearcoated with a couple cans of aerosol poly varnish, which is pretty sweet stuff for doing a clean, smooth, fast, clearcoat job, but kind of pricy compared to a can of brush-on stuff.

 

The second one, was a similar process, minus the RIT dye, as i was thinking of trying to get them to match somewhat, or at least get in the same ballpark. But i clearcoated that with a brushed-on spar varnish, which has a nice honey golden tint to it, that in person, makes the stain pop nicely. I actually have to get back into that cab band give it a second smoothing sand and recoat to make it more glassy like the 2x12, but i decided to wait until summertime proper when the higher temperatures will drive the dry time down some. :)

 

-chris

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3098916013_753891f1b7.jpg

dovetails...sweet!


3083353359_6b43dd82f6.jpg

 

That one is really nice. Did you copy an Emperor 2x12 straight up, or did you alter dimensions at all?

 

I need to get myself a picket screw jig. I really like that style joinery for cabs.

 

-chris

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I personally love Casey4's picture tutorials. I'd definitely check those out.

 

 

Here's mine. STILL sits unfinished in my basement under random amps. But, maybe I'll wrap it in turf or something soon.

 

 

 

and here's a glam shot on the day I decided to build it.

l_ab63e63b1e29ad430083aa9c9b82ddad.jpg

 

 

 

Edit, ok, that's all I have.

 

Good luck man!

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