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My Boogie Mark IV headshell build thread


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So these past few weeks I've been building a headshell for my Mark IV to convert it from a combo to head. So far, the shell itself is complete, and I'll be wrapping the tolex soon. The tolex and piping will be coming tomorrow, and was wondering what kind of adhesive I should be using for this. I pretty much got the main idea how the tolex should be wrapped, cut etc. Any tips would be helpful!

 

Here are some progress pics of the shell:

 

Started life as a piece of Baltic birch plywood cut up into 4 pieces.

DSC_0042.jpg

 

Cut the control access cutout in the top, glued the pieces together and use screws to clamp it all together.

DSC_0050.jpg

 

Took the screws out after the glue cured, drilled for the holes bigger and glued in some 5/16" dowel pegs.

DSC_0051.jpg

 

Routed the edges with a 1/2" round over bit.

DSC_0070Medium.jpg

 

Cut a piece for the front chassis/cooling fan support.

DSC_0078.jpg

 

Made a faceplate.

DSC_0079.jpg

 

Here it is as it sits on top of my 2x12 cab.

DSC_0082.jpg

 

Haven't done anything since then, as I'm waiting for my amp to come back from repairs, and awaiting tolex I ordered from Steamco. Thanks to everybody who've helped me so far!

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Thanks. I'll be doing the tolexing tomorrow. It looks pretty sweet as it is right now, so I hope I don't mess it up with the tolex. Right now I'm trying to learn everything that will be helpful when the time comes. I'm a total noob at this, but I want to get it right the first try.

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TIP: Weldwood makes a non-flammable contact cement that dries a little slower and makes positioning of the tolex easier. Plus, you can use it indoors if needed, as it doesn't have as many aromatic solvents in it. It works good! I used it on a speaker cab. Another advantage is it did not seem to allow seams to stretch and open as easily as the original, solvent based contact cement. Plus, water clean up.

 

253360.jpg

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TIP: Weldwood makes a non-flammable contact cement that dries a little slower and makes positioning of the tolex easier. Plus, you can use it indoors if needed, as it doesn't have as many aromatic solvents in it. It works good! I used it on a speaker cab. Another advantage is it did not seem to allow seams to stretch and open as easily as the original, solvent based contact cement. Plus, water clean up.


253360.jpg

 

Thanks! I'll try to pick up some of this today. Also could you explain more about the seams stretching issue? Also, do you put the cement on the tolex or the cab? Or both?

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^^^Thanks bro! (and everybody else) :thu:

 

I'm trying to program it into my head how to do this effectively. I figured out how I should do the corners watching a couple of vids and looking at casey4's DIY. Just can't figure out how to do the control access cutout on the front. I think some people would use a head gun on this(?).

 

After much research, I've decided to use a non-solvent contact cement, and get it right the first try. Do I need to apply the DAP weldwood stuff to both the tolex and wood? Or just one surface? Also I heard on TGP that 3M Super 77 gives better tone because it sprays on. just kidding :lol:

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