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Repairing a Gibson acoustic 12-string with a crushed top


meandi

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:wave:Hey!


Word of mouth
is the best advertising
and it is highly cost-effective (being free!).


The HC cobbled-up Google search ain't that great and I can't find your Goldie NGD thread. Gettin' any play time on that? How you likin' it?



Hey Jimmy, how've you been? :wave:

I've been playing the goldtop exclusively since I got it home.
Really like the Duncan stacked P90s in it...probably my favorite set of pickups at this time, followed by the phat cats I put in the dot studio back in march when I did the up-grade on it.
http://acapella.harmony-central.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2579989

Here's the link to the goldtop NGD thread...
http://acapella.harmony-central.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2640448

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:wave:


Laid a couple of strips across the top & gently clamped everything to the bench.

Set the router bit to .010' or so above the top...

crushtop53.jpg

...and milled the top off of the plug.

crushtop54.jpg

crushtop55.jpg




Ever so kind of you to oblige! :wave:
Hope all is well - very nice to be able to sit back and enjoy your work, thank very much for it Meandi - it doesn't get said enough!

:thu:

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:)Hey Linus, haven't seen you for a while.
How've ya been?



I've got a lacquer repair kit (stock # 0866) ordered from stew/mac, which includes a selection of lacquer sticks & an electric burn-in knife, for use on the cracks in front of the bridge...see if I can hide things a bit...learn another new skill.
Also 2 sets of oversized ebony bridge pins...get everything back to fitting like new.:cool:

There is still some old glue which is hard & brittle in the bridge footprint area.
I want it removed to the top wood for max adheision to the bridge.
Located the bridge position with the 3/16" drill bits & dropped this template, that I made, around it.
This will assure that I don't wander out of the designated area.
crushtop56.jpg

Once again, everything gently clamped to the bench.
crushtop57.jpg

The template is fitted closely enough that everything squeaked just a little when I lifted the bridge out with a 90deg dental pick.
Cutter bit is set so that it just scratches along the top.
This will remove the old glue & also, give me a final level across the bridge area.
crushtop58.jpg

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:)Hey Linus, haven't seen you for a while.

How've ya been?


 

 

busy, poor, so the norm..

can't really complain, employed with a roof over my head, everything else is shenanigans.

 

though i am not as busy as you it would appear, hope things are well for you aside from your influx of shop work.

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busy, poor, so the norm..

can't really complain, employed with a roof over my head, everything else is shenanigans.


though i am not as busy as you it would appear, hope things are well for you aside from your influx of shop work.



Everything is good with me.
I am busy, but I like being that way...keeps me out of trouble.:lol:




At this point, I am going to perform a couple of measurments that will allow me to make an educated calculation as to what needs to be done in order for the guitar to set-up with a good playable action.

At this point, the bridge is dry fitted to the top.
I want the saddle blank in place for this, so that's my first task of the day.
crushtop59.jpg

crushtop60.jpg

crushtop61.jpg

crushtop62.jpg

crushtop63.jpg

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So was the bridge located in a good place for intonation originally?

I only mention it because it looks like you are staying with that by matching the footprint...and with that factory approved off-placement of the bridge plate I have to wonder.

And I don't want to tell you your business but I'd probably use some wood to pad under that C-clamp to keep it from leaving a dent digging into the soundboard.

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So was the bridge located in a good place for intonation originally?


I only mention it because it looks like you are staying with that by matching the footprint...and with that off-placement of the bridge plate I have to wonder.


And I don't want to tell you your business but I'd probably use some wood to pad under that C-clamp to keep it from leaving a dent digging into the soundboard.

 

 

Intonation was sketchy before disassembly, but that didn't surprise me, what with the dive the top was taking in front of the bridge coupled with the extreme lift that was occuring behind the bridge, small wonder...everything was out of position.

 

Now that everything reguarding the top is back in it's original position, I'm going to trust that gibson had enough of their act together to provide the guitar with reasonable intonation when they initially built it.

The 1/4" saddle is going to be beneficial in fine tuning intonation at this point.

 

The clamps, are a gentle hold at this time, thus the drill bits still being used for location purposes.

The clamp feet out in the middle of the clamp are height stabalizers & are only setting loosely on the top.

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I guess if the intonation was a little off you could plug the slot with rosewood and rout out a new one. (If it was only off a little) That might be better than repositioning the entire bridge in terms of looks.
But my guess is that the saddle is so thick that you probably will be able to find a good spot somewhere in there without all that.

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With the guitar in the neck jig, I can use the vertical uprights to hold the neck in the position desired.
crushtop64.jpg

That gives me a relief of about .006" on the fingerboard...
crushtop65.jpg

...and .010 relief on the fret tops.
crushtop66.jpg

With a .020" shim on the 1st fret to simulate string height at that location...
crushtop67.jpg
...and the other end of the straightedge sitting on the top of the saddle blank...
crushtop68.jpg
...gives me a simulated string height at the 12th fret of .020".
The top is going to move when the string loads are added & will result in the action raising a similar amount.
I have notes that I took when I did the neck re-set on another similar gibson 12 string about a year ago, telling me how much the action raised on it when I performed these measurments on it.
Dig them out & refresh my memory on how it reacted to adding strings to it.
crushtop69.jpg

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I decided that I'm going to add a shim to the bottom of the bridge to obtain a higher action at the 12th.
I have this old chewed up rosewood fb that I've been saving for just this type project.
Color matches the bridge nicely.
crushtop70.jpg

crushtop71.jpg

Fuzzy photo.
Anyway, I've got a solid 1/16" below the fret slots to use for the shim.

1/16" = .0625...formula goes like such...12th fret is one half the total scale length...for every .010" added to string height at the 12th, .020" additional height is required at the bridge.

Soo, .0625 added at the bridge, divided by 2 = .031" added to the action at the 12th...giving me now a string height of.051.

This .051 is before string loads are added, which will add another .0??" after the guitar settles in to the loads.

My guess is, after consulting my notes on the other 12 string job, that I'll end up with .070-.080" action at the 12th...all said & done.
If it ends up a little high, I can shave the bottom of the saddle, as it's got a tall enough saddle at this time...taking a few thou. won't hurt the string break angles on the saddle.
crushtop72.jpg

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Clean up the edges & flatten the bottom until the shim has been thinned to the bottom of the slots.
crushtop73.jpg

Laid some string out in the outside positions to check string lay on the neck.
crushtop74.jpg

Glue it up & clamp it down.
I only have 2 of the sound hole clamps, so I set a block on each end of the bridge...by the time the main clamping caul is pulled down to the top of the bridge, good down pressure is also transfered out to the bridge ends as well.
crushtop75.jpg

crushtop76.jpg

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Blimey, that guitar will soon be played again!!!!!!
:wave:



Getting close.
The new ebony pins are not here yet, but I can string it up with the old plastic pins in order to begin work on the saddle.
crushtop77.jpg

A good match between the wood of the bridge & the 1/16" shim I added.
Have to really look to locate the glue line.:cool::thu:
crushtop78.jpg

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Using a small reamer with a 5deg taper, which matches the pin taper, to open the pin holes just enough for the string balls to pass through.
Later, a little more to fit the holes to the new oversized pins.
crushtop79.jpg

Old plastic pins are in pretty sad shape.
crushtop80.jpg

It is tuned to C standard for now...later to D & finally to E.
Give me a chance to observe how it settles in to the string loads.
crushtop81.jpg

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It has been setting with the C standard tuning since this morning.
Action on the D & G strings, which are at the high point of the fingerboard radius, is .050".
Crushtop82.jpg

The low E string is at .060"...this is where I was taking my readings previously, so this string has gained .008" string height with the addition of the strings in this tuning.
I'll pull it to D standard tomorrow.
crushtop83.jpg

The saddle is still straight across the top.
I won't do any cutting on it until the guitar is tuned to E & settled in, which is where it will live.

I played it as is for a while earlier, & I'm very happy with the tonality of the guitar.
It's big & dominant sounding as it should be, with good sustain, plus the sparkle expected from a 12er.
crushtop84.jpg

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