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Xaviere owners... Fret buzz?


Hoople Head

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I've had my XV-620 for about 3 weeks now. I really like everything else about the guitar, but it has some pretty pervasive fret buzz that I can't get rid of at an action level I like. Is this common in any of your experience?

 

The guitar came out of tune with the action set quite high. I lowered the action down to a reasonable level (about the same as my strat, a bit higher than my LPs) and tuned it up, and it's been been buzzing ever since. The buzz is on all 6 strings, from pretty much the 7th fret and higher.

 

I really don't want to set the action any higher. I've tried adding/subtracting some neck relief, but it hasn't had any affect.

 

I'm thinking maybe a neck shim, to angle the neck forward a bit and give the strings more clearance over the higher frets? Has anybody had to do that?

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I'm sorry to hear that, as I'm still seriously considering an XV870... and high action and/or fret buzz are about the only things I can't stand in a guitar. I hope it isn't typical.

 

 

It might have more to do with my pathetic setup skills than anything else... but I've got to learn at some point, right?

 

The buzz isn't enough to be heard through the amp, but it does bother me when I'm playing unplugged.

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I've had my XV-620 for about 3 weeks now. I really like everything else about the guitar, but it has some pretty pervasive fret buzz that I can't get rid of at an action level I like. Is this common in any of your experience?


The guitar came out of tune with the action set quite high. I lowered the action down to a reasonable level (about the same as my strat, a bit higher than my LPs) and tuned it up, and it's been been buzzing ever since. The buzz is on all 6 strings, from pretty much the 7th fret and higher.


I really don't want to set the action any higher. I've tried adding/subtracting some neck relief, but it hasn't had any affect.


I'm thinking maybe a neck shim, to angle the neck forward a bit and give the strings more clearance over the higher frets? Has anybody had to do that?

Well, I wouldn't just do a hit/miss with the truss rod. I'd figure out where it needed to actually be and then do the bridge and finally fine-tune between the two. If it is constant in all frets above the 7th it would just be a random high fret or two. How is the height of the strings coming out of the nut slots? BTW, I have two Xavieres and they are fine, although I had to dial them in a little when I got them, as well as periodically here during the major climate changes.

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Well, I wouldn't just do a hit/miss with the truss rod. I'd figure out where it needed to actually be and then do the bridge and finally fine-tune between the two. If it is constant in all frets above the 7th it would just be a random high fret or two. How is the height of the strings coming out of the nut slots? BTW, I have two Xavieres and they are fine, although I had to dial them in a little when I got them, as well as periodically here during the major climate changes.

 

 

re: the truss rod, I had just read some stuff that made it sound like I needed a little less relief, so I gave that a shot, it didn't work, so I tried about the same in the other direction. I've since gone back and set the relief where I think it belongs based on fret clearance in the middle of the neck with string fretted in the first and last frets.

 

The height at the nut looks good. Not sure how to go about finding or dealing with a high fret.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Your experience sounds in line with most people's I've read about.

 

I might just need to take it up to the local shop and have them take a look.

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Have a look at Stem Mac's site, after searching "fret". Look at how the fret rocker works.

I'd get a good straightedge, set the neck dead straight with it, and look for any high frets. If you find any see if you can tap them in with a plastic hammer.

I do this, and then add some relief.

My test for whether a shim is needed or not, is this:

If I can get the action where I want it, most of the neck, but above about the 12th fret the action gets too high, then I shim it and readjust. It's usually much improved. If those aren't the conditions, then I believe it doesn't need a shim. I use a medium pick as a shim. It doesn't take much at all.

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It's very simple to find the high frets.

1. Slack the strings and move them out of the way- tape them to the side of the fretboard 3 on each side.

2. Adjust truss rod so that the neck is completely flat- check with a straightedge laying across the frets from first to last. You want all the frets touching the straightedge (or as close as you can get it).

3. Then take the short end of the straightedge or any other short straight metal object (small metal mending plates from the hardware store work great) and span it across 3 frets. Start at the first fret and work your way up the neck. If there is a high fret- the straight edge will rock back and forth on it. Picture a see saw with the middle (high fret) acting as a fulcrum point.

4. Make a note of all the high spots. If it is just a few- you may be able to spot level, but if there are high spots in both the upper, middle, and lower sections of the neck a fret level and polish is in order.

Here is a great tutorial http://www.guitar-mod.com/rg_fretlevel.html.

It is a simple procedure if you go slow and take your time. You don't need any special tools except a crowning file which can be bought for about $30 from Stewmac. I use a small wooden leg about 6" long from the hardware store as my sanding block and use carpet tape (double sided) to affix sandpaper to it. Start with 400 then go to 600, and finish with 1000 and 2000. I use steel wool to final polish the frets.

Basic tools needed are:
- 18" straight edge (doesn't need to be notched)
- Sanding block- short 6" to 10" wooden leg from hardware store works great
- sandpaper (400, 600, 1000, 2000)
- carpet tape
- blue painters tape or masking tape
- a few razor blades
- small jewelers file for the fret ends
- a crowning file
- a rubber object for the final crowning ( I use a rubber eraser)
- 0000 steel wool
- Sharpie

Give it a go and let us know how you make out. It is not rocket science, just requires a bit of thought, care, and PATIENCE.

HTH.

Lou

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Thanks for the suggestions, all. I'll need to swing by a hardware store to pick up a few things, and I probably won't have time to seriously get into this until the weekend, with night classes and all.

Quick follow on question: I read a discussion on here last week about using steel wool on frets, and there were some suggestions about alternate materials (something out of the ladies nail care dept. at CVS?) that would fill the same purpose but wouldn't leave metal filings behind to screw w/ the pickups. Would something like that be appropriate for fret leveling?

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Doesn't GFS ship the guitars with the truss loosened a bit? I recall reading that somewhere.

 

Fret the 6th string at the 1st fret and the last. Check the gap at the midway point (9th fret or so). The gap should be less than a business card. If it's too big, tighten the truss, if there is no gap, loosen the truss. Make all adjustments in small increments. After the gap is set, adjust the individual strings action at the bridge.

 

For me, high action and buzzy frets come from too much relief.

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OK, I finally collected some of the tools I needed (an 18" steel straight edge, a shorter one, a tiny ruler for measuring string height) and straightened this thing out. I didn't spring for the fret rocker, but used the basic idea of it.

I straightened the neck out as completely as I could, and determined to the best of my ability that there were no obvious high frets. That's good.

I added a slight bit of neck relief, such that if I fretted the 1st and last fret on a middle string, there was a slight bit of clearance over the 12th fret.

I set the action properly on each string, using the tiny ruler mentioned above instead of just "eye-balling" it. I ended up raising most of the saddles slightly.

Now I'm happy and it's playing great. Almost all of the buzzing is gone, and what's left is barely noticeable. The action is a little higher than it was, but I feel like it's more uniform across the neck now. I might still do some minor tweaking as I have time.

Thanks all for your suggestions and guidance. Getting the right tools was a huge part of the solution. Also, the frets on this neck are a bit larger than what I'm used to on my MIM standard strat, and that may have come into play as well.

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