Members bce5150 Posted July 1, 2012 Members Share Posted July 1, 2012 brilliant thread. learned a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members AlexMC Posted July 1, 2012 Members Share Posted July 1, 2012 To stretch new guitar strings after installation, tune a couple of steps higher than target pitch and leave overnight before retuning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mockchoi Posted July 1, 2012 Members Share Posted July 1, 2012 To stretch new guitar strings after installation, tune a couple of steps higher than target pitch and leave overnight before retuning. Not so sure I'd want to try this one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bubkus_jones Posted July 1, 2012 Members Share Posted July 1, 2012 Not so sure I'd want to try this one! Why not? It's not like you're applying any more tension than you would with bending (or pulling up on a vibrato). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ancient Mariner Posted July 1, 2012 Members Share Posted July 1, 2012 Why not? It's not like you're applying any more tension than you would with bending (or pulling up on a vibrato). When you bend you're briefly putting additional tension on a single string. When you tune the whole guitar above pitch you're putting additional tension on all 6 strings and then leaving it over night? Obviously you can get away with it, but not something you'd want to try on a guitar with a thin neck or heavy strings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members peskypesky Posted July 1, 2012 Members Share Posted July 1, 2012 When you bend you're briefly putting additional tension on a single string. When you tune the whole guitar above pitch you're putting additional tension on all 6 strings and then leaving it over night? Obviously you can get away with it, but not something you'd want to try on a guitar with a thin neck or heavy strings. agreed. i would not do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ancient Mariner Posted July 1, 2012 Members Share Posted July 1, 2012 Strat owners - do you have problems winding the saddle for the bottom E back far enough to get perfect intonation? I use 10-46s with vintage trems and always want the saddle right back - by taking off the spring behind the saddle it moves back just far enough without having to turn the screw adjuster until it noodles the head or strips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members peskypesky Posted July 1, 2012 Members Share Posted July 1, 2012 Strat owners - do you have problems winding the saddle for the bottom E back far enough to get perfect intonation? I use 10-46s with vintage trems and always want the saddle right back - by taking off the spring behind the saddle it moves back just far enough without having to turn the screw adjuster until it noodles the head or strips. i've had to remove saddle springs from a couple of my strats to get the intonation right on the low E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dabbler Posted July 1, 2012 Members Share Posted July 1, 2012 I use fishing line. When removing pegs from the bridge of my acoustic when changing strings, I use a teaspoon to wedge them out. Keep one in the case, works like a charm. I use cable ties (the flat pull-tight kind) one on each side. Also: Pickups - What wire does what? If you've ever bought or been given a pickup and wanted to know how it should be connected, this tip should help. I will explain the process for a single coil but the SAME principle applies to HBs. If it is a 2 wire you will do it for the pickup as a whole, for a 4 wire HB you should do each coil separately. Tools needed: multimeter (MM) that can read DC, screwdriver (metal). 1. First, connect the MM across the leads in resistance mode to make sure that you have a complete coil (this might be especially important for 4 wire HBs). 2. Connect the MM across the coil leads in DC mode (if you have to set the sensitivity, some MMs do this automatically go for the most sensitive setting). 3. Tap the coil with the screwdriver. Actually, it is not really necessary to touch it, but you must bring the metal of the screwdriver within the coil's field. When you do this, the meter will jump either positively or negatively. When you remove the screwdriver from the field, the meter should jump in the opposite direction. 4. Record the color leads connected to the + side of the voltmeter and the - side. Call the lead connected to the + side of the meter when the voltmeter jumps + the positive side of the coil. Actually, I may have + and - reversed here, but it really doesn't matter ALL THAT MATTERS is that all the pickups you install get installed the SAME WAY. On 2 wire pups, however, if one of the leads is a shield, call that the - lead (shields should always go to ground). 5. Repeat for every other coil/pickup. If the next coil/pickup makes the needle jump negative when you touch it with the screwdriver, then whatever lead you have connected to the - side of the voltmeter is the + lead for that coil/pickup. When you are done you will know the + and - side of each coil/pickup. In order to make sure what you are installing is in phase with what is already in your guitar, check it too. I didn't invent this, I got it from a book. But it has made me NEVER have to guess how to wire a pickup! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Davo17 Posted July 1, 2012 Members Share Posted July 1, 2012 When you bend you're briefly putting additional tension on a single string. When you tune the whole guitar above pitch you're putting additional tension on all 6 strings and then leaving it over night? Obviously you can get away with it, but not something you'd want to try on a guitar with a thin neck or heavy strings. The difference in tension not significant. Most electrics can handle it easily, they are not really delicate. Obviously if you decide to stay at a new tension level, a truss rod adjustment is gonna be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dmc69 Posted July 1, 2012 Author Members Share Posted July 1, 2012 If a hole's slightly off, like a pickguard screw hole or tele control plate, I slightly enlarge the hole in the direction I want the hole to be and then plug the old part of the hole where I don't want the screw to go with a part of a rounded toothpick. A very quick fix, and it works. Drilling a new hole would be out of the question, as it's too difficult to drill with a hole so close; it would just slip and go back into the old hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dmc69 Posted July 1, 2012 Author Members Share Posted July 1, 2012 To stretch new guitar strings after installation, tune a couple of steps higher than target pitch and leave overnight before retuning. Why not half a step? tension should go up too much, and it would stretch the strings out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Snappy Hat Posted July 1, 2012 Members Share Posted July 1, 2012 If pickguard holes are too wide , break off a piece of a small rounded toothpick and put some glue on it and put it in the hole. Now your screw has some wood to bite . Works on strap buttons also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members markblasco Posted July 2, 2012 Members Share Posted July 2, 2012 When changing all of the strings on my acoustic guitar, I push the pegs out from the inside by reaching inside the sound hole. It makes things much easier than trying to use a tool to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members AlexMC Posted July 2, 2012 Members Share Posted July 2, 2012 To replace a broken/unreliable output jack on a semi-hollow Properly seating a bolt-on neck for more sustain Steaming out dents in a guitar body Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members AlexMC Posted July 2, 2012 Members Share Posted July 2, 2012 Why not half a step? tension should go up too much, and it would stretch the strings out. I used to stretch strings by hand, i.e. pulling them away from the fretboard until you feel the 'elastic limit'. This would be a around a 2-step bend, i.e. within normal limits. Plus a guitar neck can handle a lot more stress than 10s tuned up a couple of steps high... some guitarists use 13 gauge which has WAY higher tension... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members samzadgan Posted July 2, 2012 Members Share Posted July 2, 2012 3 things i do on the cheap... for slight increase on the height of nut groove, i put a layer of scotch tape on the nut...cut away the edges, restring the guitar...and it works great...just need to redo it every time i restring the guitar! ...and for strap locks...i don't have any, i have normal crap strap nobs that come stock with the guitars, what i do is drink some Grolsch beer...take that red washer thing off the cap...put my strap on the guitar and put that washer on top...not only does it lock it like no other lock...but its RED! finally...for my pick...i play a lot of metal, and picks always slip from my hand...so i go to the local skate shop and buy a small amount of grip tape...and i put that on my picks...it scraps your skin a little to start with, but they you get use to it, and that pick doesn't even move anymore! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JohnnyDD Posted July 2, 2012 Members Share Posted July 2, 2012 My string winder has an indent specifically for removing those pins Needlenose pliers when peg too low for string winder indent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members smorgdonkey Posted July 2, 2012 Members Share Posted July 2, 2012 When I put new strings on I just play scales and bend a lot of notes with lots of vibtrato and the stretch out just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members genesis3 Posted July 2, 2012 Members Share Posted July 2, 2012 what i do is drink some Grolsch beer...! excellent tip others that may have been mentioned already....keeping a floyd level whilst changing strings or working on parts of the trem,etc...If you can't find just the right size piece of wood, make yerself a homemade, reuseable shim out of old business cards. The pieces only need to be about 1 inch square or less. Just keep adding to the stack until you have enough to fill that space between the trem block and cavity edge. I've glued them all together and reused this handy thing many times. if a butter knife isn't cutting removing a knob, get a thin , flat shoelace...put it under the knob..if it's a tight fit, start with the knife to loosen it,or, see saw the lace back and forth to work it under. Once you have it under the knob, make one full loop under the knob. Now you have equal pull on two ends. Grab the lace ends and pull straight up, over the knob. I've actually removed knobs that some genius had glued on this way. If you have a used guitar with sticker residue or even sharpie, crayon, ink or nearly any other markings that is being tough to get off, a small can of 'goop off' will get it off no sweat. Potent stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members stormin1155 Posted July 2, 2012 Members Share Posted July 2, 2012 I got one: I pre-bend the ball end of the strings before I restring a Bigsby. If you've already bent the end of the string before you stick it on the little bitty post on the Bigsby, it's way easier to keep it on. This, and I use a piece of masking tape to keep the string in place on the axle pin while you are stringing it onto the tuning machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mockchoi Posted July 2, 2012 Members Share Posted July 2, 2012 I used to stretch strings by hand, i.e. pulling them away from the fretboard until you feel the 'elastic limit'. This would be a around a 2-step bend, i.e. within normal limits. Plus a guitar neck can handle a lot more stress than 10s tuned up a couple of steps high... some guitarists use 13 gauge which has WAY higher tension... Sure 13's have higher tension than say 10's tuned up a whole step. I wouldn't be afraid of snapping the neck or anything, I'd be afraid I'd have to be tweaking the truss rod all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members drawdeep Posted July 2, 2012 Members Share Posted July 2, 2012 I use a big plastic stirring spoon to remove knobs. I also recommend the Planet Waves string winder/cutter gadget... I have the one with built-in tuner and it is the bomb. This is personal preference, but I get a new strap with a new guitar and just put it on and leave it on. A lot of the problems with them coming loose are from constantly putting them on/taking them off. Commonly known, but if a strap screw hole strips out, dip toothpicks in wood glue and insert/break off flush until the hole is full, then put th screw back in. If using steel wool to polish frets, mask off the guitar body to prevent the shavings from being attracted to the pickup magnets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jlampson Posted July 6, 2012 Members Share Posted July 6, 2012 I was at work and had a loose strap knob. I had a show that night and couldn't wait for wood glue to dry. I also didn't have any toothpicks to plug the hold and re-screw. I do, however, work in a downtown metro and there is a Chinese place next door. I broke off the ends of some chopsticks in the hole and it's held tight for months with no sign of loosening! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dmc69 Posted July 6, 2012 Author Members Share Posted July 6, 2012 So chopsticks are useful after all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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