Jump to content

Guitar hacks (AKA little tricks that make your life easier when dealing with guitars)


dmc69

Recommended Posts

  • Members

On this subject, has anyone figured out a surefire way for knowing where the trem bar will be when fully tightened? Drives me mental
:mad:

 

When you use the little spring there is no need to fully tighten. As it the arm compresses the spring, it stays wherever you put it. Fender ships the guitars with these, but they always go missing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply
  • Members

 

When you use the little spring there is no need to fully tighten. As it the arm compresses the spring, it stays wherever you put it. Fender ships the guitars with these, but they always go missing.

 

 

one way to make sure they don't go missing is to put a little something in with the spring to keep it in place. something a little sticky or gooey.

 

"Some models originally came with a small, stiff coil spring at the bottom of the hole where the arm screws in, but these tend to fall out and get lost. On other models there's no bottom to the hole so you can't fit a spring at all. If your arm cavity is closed at the bottom, buy a new spring from your guitar store but, before fitting it, put a blob of silicone bathroom sealer on the bottom. Once this has dried, force the spring into the hole and the silicone rubber blob will keep it from falling out. Where you can't fit a spring, you can wrap the thread of the arm in PTFE plumber's tape, but this needs to be renewed every few gigs so it is worth keeping a roll in your guitar case."

 

http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/sep07/articles/Guitartech_0907.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

For acoustic pegs, I recommend
this
:


BridgePinPullerBottleOpener-11.png

In that it doubles as a bottle opener, it's a total win.

 

I got one of those and quickly found out how many bridge pin heads are too big or too odd of shape for that to work. But I can pull the pins out with just my fingers and it sees a lot of use as a bottle opener.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

I don't even know what the joke with otters is.
:idk:

 

you should do a search for posts by OMG_otters.

 

Allegedly a young Asian lady, her posts were usually starting a topic and then arguing with everyone until total meltdown.

The backing soda was a request for advice on how to stop guitar cases smelling bad. After getting the advice and before reading the warning not to use water - just vacuum out - she apparently wet the lining. she had a talent as a guitarist but lacked socialisation. Banning ensued.

 

Not uncommon here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

I know it is a simple one, and widely known, but a butter knife is the bomb for removing knobs from the shafts on a strat.

 

 

For Gibson knobs, use two tea spoons (one on each side of the knob), with a tea towel underneath.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

back on topic -

 

It only works if you have FR trems with adjustment screws that can tune beyond a whole tone and for flush mounted FR. I tighten the fine adjustment screw for the low E almost all the way, tune it to E, and then lock the nut. That way, if I want drop D, I don't have to loosen the nut. Just use the fine adjustment screw to drop it down, which should loosen the screw almost all the way. I find that this trick doesn't work on my OFR, as the screw doesn't have that kind of range. But iut works on my lic FR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

When restringing I always use a capo.

 

When installing electronics on a semihollow - 10lb, picture hanging wire works great for "fishing" them back in place. I wrap the end around the shaft to pull it through the hole.

 

Relatedly, using a shoebox with holes punched in the proper spots is essential for wiring a harness.

 

Lightly sand the backs of new pots when wiring in your grounds.

 

Always always always tin your wire.

 

I use a cheap tube amp to verify I got the wiring right at the end, someday I'll figure out how to test with a multimeter :facepalm:

 

Stewmac's guitar setup starter kit is awesome!

 

Can't live without Dan Erlewine's Guitar setup and maintenance book - lot's of great advice / instruction.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

I'll toss one in: When you've putting a humbucker back into the mounting bezel (or switching bezels), don't try to do it with both screws & springs in place at the same time--Take one of the screws & put it thru the bezel & the p/up WITHOUT the screw & tighten it about halfway, then put the other screw in with the spring, tighten about halfway, then take out the other screw & re-install it with the spring. This way you won't have everything flopping around uncontrollably while you're trying to get those screws & springs in. Works the same if you're using surgical tube 'stead of springs. Works the same installing a p/up into a pickguard. Try it, works like a charm & saves a lot of time & frustration...........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

I'll toss one in: When you've putting a humbucker back into the mounting bezel (or switching bezels), don't try to do it with both screws & springs in place at the same time--Take one of the screws & put it thru the bezel & the p/up WITHOUT the screw & tighten it about halfway, then put the other screw in with the spring, tighten about halfway, then take out the other screw & re-install it with the spring. This way you won't have everything flopping around uncontrollably while you're trying to get those screws & springs in. Works the same if you're using surgical tube 'stead of springs. Works the same installing a p/up into a pickguard. Try it, works like a charm & saves a lot of time & frustration...........

 

 

That's bloody brilliant! I'll certainly be using that one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

I'll toss one in: When you've putting a humbucker back into the mounting bezel (or switching bezels), don't try to do it with both screws & springs in place at the same time--Take one of the screws & put it thru the bezel & the p/up WITHOUT the screw & tighten it about halfway, then put the other screw in with the spring, tighten about halfway, then take out the other screw & re-install it with the spring. This way you won't have everything flopping around uncontrollably while you're trying to get those screws & springs in. Works the same if you're using surgical tube 'stead of springs. Works the same installing a p/up into a pickguard. Try it, works like a charm & saves a lot of time & frustration...........

 

 

hmm nice tip. I'll try it out next time for sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Cut the tubing into pieces the length of the springs you would use. The tubing compresses and behaves like the spring will.

 

 

That sounds like a 'fix' for a problem that doesn't exist IMO.

 

 

As for acoustic bridge pins, I don't know why more manugfacturers don't use pinless bridges. I saw one on an old Taylor and I have one on a Takamine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

That sounds like a 'fix' for a problem that doesn't exist IMO.



As for acoustic bridge pins, I don't know why more manugfacturers don't use pinless bridges. I saw one on an old Taylor and I have one on a Takamine.

 

 

My string winder has an indent specifically for removing those pins

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Now I have a question about tuning by ear.

There's the widely known method of playing the 5th fret (4th on G) of a string to get the note of the next string, but it's a very unreliable method. There's also the method of using harmonics above the 5th and 7th fret.

Are there any more methods/tricks? I'd be interested in methods that are more precise than the ones I mentioned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

When bolting a neck onto a body, screw in the neck, but not tightly. Next, string up both e's and center the neck by using them as straight edge references. Then, tighten the neck down and worry about adjusting your bridge as needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

if you're bothered by a loose tremolo arm on your Strat, put a little spring in the hole before you screw the arm in. a spring from a ball-point pen is good, or any spring about that size. i sometimes use a pickup mounting spring, but they're a little big for the job.

 

 

Yep this works great. Lots of hardware stores have springs as well, you can get various sizes to find one that works if you don't already have any. You can also use teflon tape, normally used to seal threads in plumbing fittings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...