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GFS SG kit!


guitarheo3

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i hate having the jack on the top of the body like standard SGs have so i moved it to the side like a les paul. i still need to fill the pre-drilled hole with a dowel though.

 

Or, you could put a cutoff/bypass push-button switch in there so you could do those Buckethead/Morello type staccato notes. If you don't like that idea, maybe a coil tap switch? Just a thought. :idk:

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so i did a little on the guit today.

i:

-rough cut the headstock

-fixed the shelving issue on the neck

-drilled holes for the back plate screws

next step is to glue the neck in :eek:

 

pics:

0202.jpg

 

0212.jpg

 

0232.jpg

 

i'm worried about this gap on the bass side though

0232.jpg

 

not original but hey, it's a good looking headstock shape.

0252.jpg

 

rough cut. still have finishing sanding to do

0262.jpg

 

0292.jpg

 

next steps are: glue neck in and drill the bridge mounting holes :wave:

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so i'm like, pulling my hair out freaking out about where i'm supposed to drill the holes for the bridge. i have figured out the alignment with the strings but now it's down to the distance. i've read that it should be at 24 5/8" as well as 24 3/4" so i'm confused. i'm also confused about the angle of the TOM. i found this on another forum and i just need someone to verify this so i'll know this is right to do:

"I've never measured the angle of the Tune-O-Matic, but as a general rule, the nut-to-saddle (at center saddle travel) should be scale + 1/8" for the treble side and scale + 1/4" for the bass side. This has never failed me, and allows for proper intonation and the widest latitude of adjustment."

thanks in advance. :wave:

here's some mock ups of what i'm thinking color wise. nothing special but this post seems boring without pics of some sort :lol:

black.jpg

 

white.jpg

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The above is more or less correct. To be sure, mark up that location, then figure out where the stop tail needs to be. Install it and the two E tuners and string them up. Prop the bridge on some popsickle sticks and check the intonation with the saddles at the midpoint of their travel. Poof. That's where the bridge needs to be.

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White is a tough color to finish. It will show any imperfection you have... But that doesnt mean that if you take your time you can't nail it.

 

Like Weiner bob said, most places carry the zinser "seal coat" in a can. You can just paint it on and then sand it flat. It works really well, BUT is a lot more work than a spray. A spray goes on a lot more flat and even... You'll go through so much sand paper and hours with the brush on stuff (but its a good product). You can thin it and shoot it with a preval shooter, and then you'll have a ton left over for future projects as well, since you'll probably be addicted after finish the SG

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so i'm like, pulling my hair out freaking out about where i'm supposed to drill the holes for the bridge. i have figured out the alignment with the strings but now it's down to the distance. i've read that it should be at 24 5/8" as well as 24 3/4" so i'm confused.

 

 

Okay, you've piqued my interest. I got out my old '73 SG Pro and measured. It has the '70's style "harmonica" bridge, so it's not angled. However, the distance from the bottom of the nut to the center of the bridge post is:

 

(drum roll please...............)

 

24 3/4"

 

Hope this helps. Good luck with the project.

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