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Do you want an Agile model with Stainless Steel frets?


TaZMaNiO

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Originally posted by batotman
I want a 3000 model (i guess they could call it 3200) with stainless steel frets, ebondy board, and a cool blue or blue green flametop like the Gibby limited edition standards.
+1. I'd buy it today.
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Originally posted by JimboJ


I don't know about that. A refret is what, about $150? A set of strings is like $5.

1 refret = 30 sets of strings.

That means if you go through more than 30 sets of strings between refrets, then the refret is cheaper.
I don't know where you're frrom, but around here a decent re-fret on a bound neck is gonna set you back closer to $300. I get my strings for closer to $3.00 a pack. That's 100 set's of strings to a re-fret. I've yet to break a string at a fret as well.
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Nickel/Silver frets actually have no silver in them. They're made from 18% nickel, brass, iron, carbon and some other junk. It's the brass that's the problem. It's used for anti corrosion and machinability BUT brass is also prone to "grab" on to other metals rather easily which makes them wear at a faster rate than stainless.

In 1913, English metallurgist Harry Brearly, working on a project to improve rifle barrels, accidentally discovered that adding chromium to low carbon steel gives it stain resistance. In addition to iron, carbon, and chromium, modern stainless steel may also contain other elements, such as nickel, niobium, molybdenum, and titanium. Nickel, molybdenum, niobium, and chromium enhance the corrosion resistance of stainless steel. It is the addition of a minimum of 12% chromium to the steel that makes it resist rust, or stain 'less' than other types of steel. The chromium in the steel combines with oxygen in the atmosphere to form a thin, invisible layer of chrome-containing oxide, called the passive film. The sizes of chromium atoms and their oxides are similar, so they pack neatly together on the surface of the metal, forming a stable layer only a few atoms thick. If the metal is cut or scratched and the passive film is disrupted, more oxide will quickly form and recover the exposed surface, protecting it from oxidative corrosion. (Iron, on the other hand, rusts quickly because atomic iron is much smaller than its oxide, so the oxide forms a loose rather than tightly-packed layer and flakes away.) The passive film requires oxygen to self-repair, so stainless steels have poor corrosion resistance in low-oxygen and poor circulation environments. In seawater, chlorides from the salt will attack and destroy the passive film more quickly than it can be repaired in a low oxygen environment.

The second paragraph on was taken in context from somewhere in cyberspace but at least you understand that stainless is a more stable material with less wear characteristics. Because it is so stable, when polished, it does not want to "stick" to the strings giving you a nice hard, slippery surface.

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Originally posted by batotman


I'd put down the money up front for a preorder!

54_12_sb.JPG
I would too for something in a finish like that. Now if they could get me something in Cadilac Green... something like a DC... well I'd be all over that.
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Originally posted by Oyaji
SS frets on an agile would be like a turd that can't be flushed. frown.gif

Actually, SS frets are great, I have never played an agile, and I'm sure it would be a wonderful guitar. smile.gif
I see your attempt at filling in for GG was only half-hearted wink.gif

LOL
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1. Chambered mahogany back EDIT: And I don't like the red finish on the back, I want to see something like the natural mahogany color like on a Goldtop.

2. Two piece solid PLAIN MAPLE TOP with vintage burst, Gold top, and Honey burst. Maybe even some other crazier colors.

3. Mahogany neck.

4. Ebony board

5. Stainless frets

6. All the 3000 hardware, but with factory installed Graphtech saddles.

Charge 399 and I'm there. And bring back the CNB case that looks like the brown leather LP cases.

ANOTHER EDIT: Oh, and if you really really want to do it right... Finish it in Nitro biggrin.gif

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Hell yeah to stainless steel frets!!! A big reason I am reluctant about buying new guitars is its a pain knowing the frets will before long wear down and cost an arm and leg to refret which id rather spend on other gear.

Here are three i would love:

3500 prestige series lp, chambered body, stainless steel frets, push pull coil split, and chandler push/pull tone x active mid boost with bill lawrence humbuckers(billlawrence.com), graphtech nut (offer several colors and maybe nitro finish. cool.gif

Prestige series duojet, jet black, lightweight body, tv jones or maybe gfs liverpool alnico filtertrons, stainless stell frets, bigsby trem (not the cheesy horseshoe model), roller bridge, graphtech nut, grover tuners. cool.gif

All solid wood (solid spruce top, solid maghog back, sides...) j160e copy with stainless steel frets, grover tuners, classic sunburst finish, best sounding pickup that will look like original and work with the vol and tone knobs, bone nut and saddle. cool.gif
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Originally posted by Matter-Eater Lad
If everybody starts getting what they want on these Agile's they are going to end up being $800.
I seriously doubt that, based on the fact they only cost Rondo $50-75 to start with...unless they become TOTAL money-sucking whores like Gibson.
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Originally posted by TaZMaNiO


I seriously doubt that, based on the fact they only cost Rondo $50-75 to start with...unless they become TOTAL money-sucking whores like Gibson.
There is no agile guitar that costs me less than $100 to build including the $159 AL-2000s. Ok, I will get some quote on the stainless!

Kurt
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Hey kurt, how about some neck thru shredder agiles? biggrin.gif

O yeah, thanks for emailing me back about the pickups in the Uniform Profile models, really considering the silverburst one. Maybe you can do a silverburst with metallic flakes in a double and single cut model? I'd be all over it like nowtongue.gif

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I have stainless on my '79 strat and they are awesome. I don't think it made the guitar noticeably brighter. These frets are 2 years old and are like new. This {censored} about SS frets eating strings makes me laugh! My strings go dead because of corrosion long before I ever break them.

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