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i was looking at the carvin site just looking to see if any new gear has come out(by the way...is carvin at namm?) and i came across the trx line AgAiN. i've noticed that some higher priced cabs have designs similar to this and was reading the specs at the bottom. good construction, fly points, 99db(not bad:rolleyes: ) and 13 ply baltic birch with dura tex. for the price what should i expect from this cab? what about tri-amping. what difference does it make over full range? for $660 is this a deal? i mean if you look at brands that are more popular you don't see this type of contruction and design. they look tasty. i want to uy 'em and just try them out.

 

TRX153

 

i know carvin is looked down on for their outrageous claims sometimes but what should i expect from this $660 cab? by the way, i wouldn't consider buying their cheaper stuff, or anything else for that matter, qc i hear is not so great with carvin:D gcdef: no hard feelings? just something i've heard through the grape vine;) :)

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When they first came out,I commented here about how the horn loading of the cone mid looked like a poor design to me. And now I see that they have some funky pie-pan baffle thing on the front of it now. Anyway,I don't care for the looks of it. Do you need that large of a mid-high cab? I know I've mentioned it too many times here,but you can get a 2x12" Sonic mid-high cab with RCF woofers for less money. And if you want longer throw,they also make it with a narrower dispersion 2" horn.

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i don't know bro. right now i don't necessarily NEED it but i am begining to explre my possibilities for the near furure. are you talking about the t212fr or the t221fr-2"? how much do those 2" versions sell for? the trx is alot smaller . what pie-pan baffle thing?:confused: wouldn't you want to compare the two? sund quality wise that is? thanx bro

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you have to admit that the dura tex finish is alot better than carpet. more durable and nicer looking imo. and the 13ply baltic birch construction is nice too. what about sonic. what are their construction materials?

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Originally posted by lucho_84

i don't know bro. right now i don't necessarily NEED it but i am begining to explre my possibilities for the near furure. are you talking about the t212fr or the t221fr-2"? how much do those 2" versions sell for? the trx is alot smaller . what pie-pan baffle thing?
:confused:
wouldn't you want to compare the two? sund quality wise that is? thanx bro

Sze-wise,they are about the same height,the Carvin is about 1" narrower and about 3" shallower. Not much difference. Anyway,I take it you don't have the new Carvin catalog. It shows the new weird diffuser thing on the cone mid. I guess they mainly don't interest me because of the poor design.

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i am not saying t's a good/bad design since i am not experienced in assesing design; however, what makes it a bad design? i've seen ev and eaw cabs that look k.i.n...d.....a similar to this design. what are things to look for?:confused:

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one more thing...when trying to find the power rating of a speaker, what is an EIA rating? what's better? rms or eia? and when matching speakers to amps one should pay attention to the rms rating and match an amp that delivers 2x the rms correct? thank you

 

luis

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Originally posted by lucho_84

you have to admit that the dura tex finish is alot better than carpet. more durable and nicer looking imo. and the 13ply baltic birch construction is nice too. what about sonic. what are their construction materials?

 

 

I'm curious too, many of their speakers don't mention what the material is. You kinda have to assume it's MDF unless they mention it, because it's such a big feature.

 

I guess I could email the company

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Originally posted by lucho_84

one more thing...when trying to find the power rating of a speaker, what is an EIA rating? what's better? rms or eia? and when matching speakers to amps one should pay attention to the rms rating and match an amp that delivers 2x the rms correct? thank you


luis

 

The EIA (International Electrotechnical Commission) rating for loudspeakers (RS-426) is a (somewhat) comprehensive (involved) testing process, although many (including myself) believe RS-426 is lacking (or doesn't really translate to real world usage). The proposed revised EIA testing standard of RS-426B is a much more meaningful test. I'd be happy to explain the particulars in detail if you're interested.

 

The current commonly used EIA RS-426 standards might be somewhat lacking; however, RMS ratings are virtually useless unless the RMS ratings are qualified (which is what the EIA standards attempt to do); however, RMS ratings are "the common language"... although virtually meaningless on face value (what is a dollar worth?)

 

Here's my rule of thumb concerning power matching (based on my own experience and "general" RMS ratings as applied to "better" speakers):

 

1) 2X RMS (or more) with NO clipping.

2) 1.5X RMS if light clipping is common

3) 1X RMS if moderate clipping is common

4) 0.5 RMS (or less) if constant hard clipping is common.

 

However, all of this needs to be taken with a grain of salt since the term RMS might be completely ambiguous (is that a real RMS or a Sears RMS?)

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Originally posted by Audiopile




1) 2X RMS (or more) with NO clipping.

2) 1.5X RMS if light clipping is common

3) 1X RMS if moderate clipping is common

4) 0.5 RMS (or less) if constant hard clipping is common.

 

 

Somebody write this down! This IS the rule of thumb for power matching but read it carefully...

 

1) 2X RMS (or more) with NO NO NO clipping. (More only if you don't actually deliver it to the speaker)

2) 1.5X RMS if LIGHT clipping is common

3) 1X RMS if moderate clipping is common (read this as live Rock n Roll through your PA)

4) 0.5 RMS (or less) if constant hard clipping is common. (electric guitars ... Oh, you're adding lots of guitar in your mix ... then you fall somewhere between 3 & 4)

 

Mark ... where were you last week when I quoted nearly the same thing from JBL's white paper ("Speaker Power Requirements" in their white paper section) and got a bunch of flack from 'those in the know' that they needed to supply double the RMS to systems when you know full well they are gonna be driving the snot out of 'em every time.

 

Continuing campaign ... you'all need more cones and less power ... thank you;)

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BTW ... what the hell good is knowing how much power a speaker will handle while it's delivering 10% distortion! You just can't run up here and expect it to sound good!

 

General rule of thumb ... expect 1% distortion in a speaker at about 20% of it's rated power. Ever wonder why manufacturer's spec don't include distortion specs?:eek: Anyone out there using 10% distortion amplifiers?

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Originally posted by dboomer



Mark ... where were you last week when I quoted nearly the same thing from JBL's white paper ("Speaker Power Requirements" in their white paper section) and got a bunch of flack from 'those in the know' that they needed to supply double the RMS to systems when you know full well they are gonna be driving the snot out of 'em every time.


Continuing campaign ... you'all need more cones and less power ... thank you;)

 

Well... once bitten twice shy. Last time I ventured into this arena... well... it got real ugly.

 

There's no doubt this is a argumentative topic. I have proven (over and over) if the operator (s) will stuff the system into clip with X amount of power, they will also stuff the system into clip with 2X, and 4X, and probably 10X the power. Much like a kid with a car... if the kid is stuffing the tach into the red all the time (and blows the engine) some might suggest the vehicle doesn't have enough power to deliver the preformance the driver requires... so is the answer to suggest to the kid if he buys a car with a more powerful motor he won't blow it up? Of course, if the vehicle won't go the speed limit into a 20 mph headwind without just having the throttle matted all the time... then it is under powered and needs more muscle... but of course... the whole drivetrain needs to be able to withstand the bigger mill.

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Originally posted by lucho_84

i am not saying t's a good/bad design since i am not experienced in assesing design; however, what makes it a bad design? i've seen ev and eaw cabs that look k.i.n...d.....a similar to this design. what are things to look for?
:confused:

Look at that so-called horn on the cone mid. Doesn't the throat look too big to you? Doesn't look like the sound will grab the walls very well when the source is that far away from them.

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Originally posted by dboomer



Yeah, punk ass kids


... i mean with cars:D

 

uh... lemme rephrase that:

 

"much like when I was a kid with my first motorcycle... stuffing the tach into the red all the time (if it had a tach)... and all was fine until one day I missed a gear which resulted in floating the valves, therefore resulting in serious valve and piston interaction, resulting in the piston disintegrating (and the busted parts falling down into the tranny) and stuffing the connecting rod out through the side of the cylinder... all in a split second (about 15 miles from home up in the pucker brush)... fortunately it was only a beat Honda 55"

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Originally posted by RoboPimp



I'm curious too, many of their speakers don't mention what the material is. You kinda have to assume it's MDF unless they mention it, because it's such a big feature.


I guess I could email the company

 

 

the trx is 13ply baltic birch with a dura tex finish. i don't know about their CHEAPER:eek: LINES THOUGH. and i'm under the impression that the tcs speaker line is not even carvin. anyone know about that?:confused:

 

luis

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Originally posted by dboomer



Somebody write this down! This IS the rule of thumb for power matching but read it carefully...


1) 2X RMS (or more) with
NO NO NO
clipping. (More only if you don't actually deliver it to the speaker)

2) 1.5X RMS if
LIGHT
clipping is common

3) 1X RMS if
moderate
clipping is common (read this as live Rock n Roll through your PA)

4) 0.5 RMS (or less) if constant hard clipping is common. (electric guitars ... Oh, you're adding lots of guitar in your mix ... then you fall somewhere between 3 & 4)


Mark ... where were you last week when I quoted nearly the same thing from JBL's white paper ("Speaker Power Requirements" in their white paper section) and got a bunch of flack from 'those in the know' that they needed to supply double the RMS to systems when you know full well they are gonna be driving the snot out of 'em every time.


Continuing campaign ... you'all need more cones and less power ... thank you;)

 

 

Can I lead the parade? There is a lot of wisdom in these posts.

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Originally posted by agedhorse



Can I lead the parade? There is a lot of wisdom in these posts.

 

 

I agree.

 

Reminds me of a story about a year ago. I tend to DJ to

gain some extra cash when I'm not doing any live

acts.

 

This DJ, has one PLX 3402 Bridged on one EAW sub.

(Its the two fifteen design with one woofer is inverted )

 

So, he see me coming in with 2 Double Fifteens, and,

says "Hey Dude! I bet my EAW sub will obliterate your

cheap subs.

 

Whatever Dude :rolleyes:

 

So later on, he sees my Peavey Amps (Two CS 800X,

for the Subs, One CS 900 for the Tops), and says

Those Cheap {censored}s can 't handle the room, why don't

you get some good amps.

 

Again, I'm like Whatever Dude :rolleyes: (like I'm really

going to roll in with a distro to power the Crown MA's

QSC PL's, and, EX's in a room that holds 233 people)

 

Seeing that we are right next to each other (divided rooms)

we can hear each other.

 

Cocktail hour has begun, and, I put on Down To The Bone's

"Brooklyn Heights" (Jazz track)

 

Within a minute, I'm visited by the Father of the Bride,

in the other room, asking can I turn down the bass,

because I'm shaking all the glasses on the tables.

:D

 

No Problem! I crank it down a notch.

 

Announcement time, so, off with the music. In the meantime,

the next room is rocking. I take a peak inside, and, people

are doing the YMCA dance. However, I'm hearing this poping

noise coming from the sub. So, being a good samaritan that

I am, I tell the DJ, that you are overdriving the sub, you should

reduce the bass.

 

What? Are you out of your mind !!! Ha Ha!! I told you

my EAW would put your homemade boxes to shame!!!!

 

Then cranks the bass more :eek:

 

Took a look at the QSC, and now the clip indicators are on

like a light bulb!

 

So, I went back to my room, and, proceeded with some

dancing music.

 

Shortly after, I see the DJ comes in and, ask me can he

borrow one of my subs. :confused:

 

I'm like dude, I'm using both right now, and, I can't

afford to disrupt the party now. What's up???

 

He told me that his sub caught on fire, and, one of

brides maids threw water on it!!!!

 

The moral of the story, too much power, too large

of a space, and, not enough speakers.

 

I heard the Brides Father sued the DJ, and, he is no

longer in business.

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Originally posted by OMNIFEX




I agree.


The moral of the story, too much power, too large

of a space, and, not enough speakers.


I heard the Brides Father sued the DJ, and, he is no

longer in business.

 

 

Yup, the only thing large amps in the hands of the unskilled create is a bunch of blown speakers. The worst feature ever included on a power amp (for most users) is the bridge (or destruct) switch!

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Originally posted by OMNIFEX

You know how hard it is to keep a straight face

when he said that his sub caught on fire, and,

one of brides maids threw water on it?



What I would do to see the video footage

on that !!!
:D

 

I can't imagine why you'd even attempt a straight face after being taunted by him. I'd have laughed my ass off.

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Originally posted by lucho_84

by the way, i wouldn't consider buying their cheaper stuff, or anything else for that matter, qc i hear is not so great with carvin:D gcdef: no hard feelings? just something i've heard through the grape vine;)
:)

 

Yes, far better to rely on something you heard through the grapevine, than first hand experience from an actual user. But no. No hard feelings. I'm used to being the whipping boy for the anti-Carvin crowd.

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