Members Sinner Posted January 30, 2005 Members Share Posted January 30, 2005 I have a monitor and the horn is not putting out any sound. How can I tell if the horn is dead or if it's the crossover or something else maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tlbonehead Posted January 30, 2005 Members Share Posted January 30, 2005 Originally posted by Achilleos I have a monitor and the horn is not putting out any sound. How can I tell if the horn is dead or if it's the crossover or something else maybe? Its pretty simple common sense. Take a battery directly to the horn driver terminals and see if you get a healthy click. If that is positive,then try it before the crossover and see what happens. You should be able to narrow down where the loss occurs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted January 30, 2005 Members Share Posted January 30, 2005 Originally posted by tlbonehead Its pretty simple common sense. Take a battery directly to the horn driver terminals and see if you get a healthy click. If that is positive,then try it before the crossover and see what happens. You should be able to narrow down where the loss occurs. You will want to do it quickly if it's a small horn driver. Don't let the battery sit on the terminals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 30, 2005 Share Posted January 30, 2005 Originally posted by agedhorse You will want to do it quickly if it's a small horn driver. Don't let the battery sit on the terminals. And: Don't use a crisp new 9V onna comp driver... but use a fairly spent 9V. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dboomer Posted January 30, 2005 Members Share Posted January 30, 2005 Originally posted by tlbonehead If that is positive,then try it before the crossover and see what happens. Having never actually tried it this way but ... I don't think the battery is gonna work through the crossover because you ought to have a capacitor in series with the driver, and the cap won't pass DC (unless it it fried ... so if it does work then you DO have a problem ) It's most likely that you've fried the diaphram in the driver. If you have crossover damage. it's probably mechanical and you'll see something (mostly heavy pieces) broken off the board ... or ... there will be something that looks like charcoal and smells burnt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted January 30, 2005 Members Share Posted January 30, 2005 Unless there is a fuse or a lightbulb that has opened up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 30, 2005 Share Posted January 30, 2005 Originally posted by agedhorse Unless there is a fuse or a lightbulb that has opened up. Or solder melted and run out of where it's suspose to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Sinner Posted January 30, 2005 Author Members Share Posted January 30, 2005 All right, I'll check those things out. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members J. Posted January 30, 2005 Members Share Posted January 30, 2005 Originally posted by agedhorse You will want to do it quickly if it's a small horn driver. Don't let the battery sit on the terminals. I've always wondered what would happen if I hooked up one of these things to the terminals on a working speaker.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dboomer Posted January 30, 2005 Members Share Posted January 30, 2005 Probably start on the second crank! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 30, 2005 Share Posted January 30, 2005 Those darn battery charges just don't have enough oomph. I say: go for the gusto when speaker testing: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tlbonehead Posted January 31, 2005 Members Share Posted January 31, 2005 Originally posted by Audiopile And: Don't use a crisp new 9V onna comp driver... but use a fairly spent 9V. I should have mentioned something there. I usually use a 1 1/2 volt of some sort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tlbonehead Posted January 31, 2005 Members Share Posted January 31, 2005 Originally posted by dboomer Having never actually tried it this way but ... I don't think the battery is gonna work through the crossover because you ought to have a capacitor in series with the driver, and the cap won't pass DC (unless it it fried ... so if it does work then you DO have a problem ) Didn't know that. With just a standard cap in front of the driver,I've always been able to get a small click when everything was good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted January 31, 2005 Members Share Posted January 31, 2005 Originally posted by tlbonehead Didn't know that. With just a standard cap in front of the driver,I've always been able to get a small click when everything was good. Yes, you will get a click because the dV/dT of the DC step makes the cap's impedance look like zero for an instant. What you get through is a spike or pulse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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