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Originally posted by ctardi

Use the Search Button, I think we've covered this before.

 

Do ya think?

:p

 

I did a search and found this:

 

Link

 

It seems to me that its suggested to get a soldering iron and make your own. I'm sure that's a good idea, but I like the simplicity of the George L's.

 

I never mentioned the merits of using George L's or if the signal quality was somehow better; I just asked if anyone used them in their PA.

;)

 

Sheesh...

:)

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Originally posted by Thunderbroom



Do ya think?

:p

I did a search and found this:


Link


It seems to me that its suggested to get a soldering iron and make your own. I'm sure that's a good idea, but I like the simplicity of the George L's.


I never mentioned the merits of using George L's or if the signal quality was somehow better; I just asked if anyone used them in their PA.

;)

Sheesh...

:)

 

no one said anything about sig quility... you feling okay.. I think your seeing things...

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Originally posted by kevinnem



no one said anything about sig quility... you feling okay.. I think your seeing things...

 

Check the link I cited.

 

And yes, I am feeling okay.

 

And being that you're trying to take a stab at me for some reason, check your grammar and spelling.

;)

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For PA use?

 

Do George L's come in a balanced XLR version?

 

Anyway, for PA use, most folks carry spares of most things, especially cables - I mean, who shows up to a gig with the exact number of mic cables? As for unbalanced instrument use, you'd expect the musicians to bring their own, so a couple of your own can be used as spares if needed.

 

Hence - from a SR point of view (as opposed to a musician's POV) - I don't think George L's are much use.

 

AS

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Originally posted by ashivraj

Do George L's come in a balanced XLR version?


Anyway, for PA use, most folks carry spares of most things, especially cables - I mean,
who
shows up to a gig with the exact number of mic cables? As for unbalanced instrument use, you'd expect the musicians to bring their own, so a couple of your own can be used as spares if needed.


Hence - from a SR point of view (as opposed to a musician's POV) - I don't think George L's are much use.


AS

 

Thanks for this post...informative without being condescending.

:)

 

George L's are only TS cables.

 

I originally asked the question because I didn't know if they were or were not popular with sound folks.

 

I'm likely going to split my order between Bayou and Audiopile but may get a small amount of George L cable as well.

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Originally posted by Scodiddly

In general I think they're just not sturdy enough for PA use.

 

 

I was thinking that these would be great for a prewired rack...especially with their .155 cables. It's one of the reasons I started this thread.

 

This seems a more stable use for them than using them for effects pedals and instrument cables.

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There's a reason why the pro companies use standardized non-"designer" stuff. Good quality commercial cabling and connectors are entirely adequate and there's no need for a pro company to subsidize such extensive retail advertising.

 

I have probably a thousand cables between my rigs and there's nothing GeorgeL or Monster amongst them. It's all Belden/Columbia/Switchcraft/Neutrik with some of Mark's cables commercial grade cables added in.

 

If they only make TS cables, they show absolutely no interest in the commercial side of pro audio.

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Originally posted by Thunderbroom



I was thinking that these would be great for a prewired rack...especially with their .155 cables. It's one of the reasons I started this thread.


This seems a more stable use for them than using them for effects pedals and instrument cables.

 

 

Yeah, but (to me anyway) the main novelty of them is the fact that you can repair a cable on the fly - for example, if you step on one mid-gig and the connector pops off, or you cut through the cable.

 

In a pre-wired rack, none of that should happen- even if using all unbalanced gear on 1/4" TS connectors - so that defeats the purpose of using George L's in the first place...

 

AS

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Originally posted by ashivraj



Yeah, but (to me anyway) the main novelty of them is the fact that you can repair a cable on the fly - for example, if you step on one mid-gig and the connector pops off, or you cut through the cable.


In a pre-wired rack, none of that should happen- even if using all unbalanced gear on 1/4" TS connectors - so that defeats the purpose of using George L's in the first place...


AS

 

If you step on a connector and the cable pops out, you really need to consider a more professional, robust cable assembly. Repairing any cable on the fly is not a good solution IMO. How about a spare cable for those mission critical pieces?

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Originally posted by agedhorse


If you step on a connector and the cable pops out, you really need to consider a more professional, robust cable assembly. Repairing any cable on the fly is not a good solution IMO. How about a spare cable for those mission critical pieces?

 

 

Exactly.

 

So what, then, is the benefit of a George L, apart from the novelty of a solderless cable? Just a (seemingly) easy way out for people who can't be bothered learning to solder?

 

AS

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I do appreciate the feedback in this thread...REALLY.

 

I'm torn right now between buying stuff from Mark (Audiopile) and Butch (Bayou). I think that I'm just going to compromise and order some stuff from each. I figure this way, I can evaluate each's products and use that knowledge for future purchases.

 

From what I gather from folks that own stuff from both, they each sell quality stuff for reasonable prices. The customer service thus far, via email, has been great with both of these folks.

 

I've just got to get money transferred to PayPal to pay Butch and call Mark/Liz for my order from them.

:)

 

While I've got some of you still paying attention...

 

yfc_pagear_01c.jpg

 

All my gear above is TS for the most part...while I have an XLR out for the mains on my mixer, the crossover is TS. The auxes on my mixer are TS. So, I'll be going TS for all my cabling to connect all of the above.

 

Is there some ideal common length that I should get for the above cables for connecting the mixer, crossover and whatnot? I thought about measuring everything, but that could backfire if I add components at some point or have to set up the racks differently for some reason.

 

I want to keep the spaghetti effect in check if possible.

 

Thanks.

Edit: I'm having a similar discussion on the bass forum. When I use the term TS above, should I be saying TRS? I feel like such an idiot.

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Originally posted by Thunderbroom

Is there some ideal common length that I should get for the above cables for connecting the mixer, crossover and whatnot? I thought about measuring everything, but that could backfire if I add components at some point or have to set up the racks differently for some reason.


I want to keep the spaghetti effect in check if possible.


Thanks.

 

 

 

If there's not going to be a snake or patch panels involved, I'd recommend 3-footers within the rack, and 10-foot to interconnect racks. Some like 6-foot for this, and that's fine, but I've run into situations where snake, rack and mixer didn't quite cooperate with that length.

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Originally posted by Thunderbroom


Edit: I'm having a similar discussion on the bass forum. When I use the term TS above, should I be saying TRS? I feel like such an idiot.

 

 

The Peavey and DBX units both have balanced TRS connections. You may use TS cables, but the signal will be unbalanced. Given the choice, you definitely want to go balanced.

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Originally posted by soul-x

The Peavey and DBX units both have balanced TRS connections. You may use TS cables, but the signal will be unbalanced. Given the choice, you definitely want to go balanced.

 

I'm definitely going to get balanced cables thanks to you guys.

:thu:

 

Is there a way for me to check the jack on my Ashly EQ to determine if it is balanced or unbalanced? I have a multimeter if this helps.

 

If not, can I use balanced anyway?

 

Originally posted by ctardi

Zip ties, and the little 3M stickie cable thingies work well for this (inside the rack).


And take you're time when you are setting up.

 

I've got quite a few of the velcro ties. I think I'll definitely use these and have some of the cable thingies also. I have a student that works for a local manufacturer of those things and he hooked me up (unsolicited).

 

I'll have to work on the taking your time part of it. I'm the sound guy and the bass player. I am learning to start delegating some parts of the setup of the PA to other band members in addition to some of my other responsibilities...hanging the banner...collecting the gig money...

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Originally posted by ctardi



Zip ties, and the little 3M stickie cable thingies work well for this (inside the rack).


And take you're time when you are setting up.

 

There is no main EQ at this point.

:(

 

We have what we have.

 

I'm using the onboard EQ. Once we go outboard, I'll definitely be back asking you guys what to get and how to hook it all up. I get confused as hell by the idea of the inserts and the special "Y" cable and how you hook it up and all that.

:freak:

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Originally posted by agedhorse

and where's the main eq?

 

 

In the mixer, silly! Dual 27 band GEQ or 5 band PEQ along with delay and limiting.

 

and Jeff ... they may go together on the fly ... and I'm sure they'll come apart just as easy. I'd also worry about extra resistance/other junk in the connections.

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Originally posted by dboomer

In the mixer, silly! Dual 27 band GEQ or 5 band PEQ along with delay and limiting.

 

No to belabor this, but are you all planning a supplement to the manual in regards to the onboard effects?

 

Originally posted by dboomer

and Jeff ... they may go together on the fly ... and I'm sure they'll come apart just as easy. I'd also worry about extra resistance/other junk in the connections.

 

Huh?

:freak:

:)

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Originally posted by Thunderbroom



I'm definitely going to get balanced cables thanks to you guys.

:thu:

Is there a way for me to check the jack on my Ashly EQ to determine if it is balanced or unbalanced? I have a multimeter if this helps.


If not, can I use balanced anyway?

 

Take a look at it. It probably says next to the jack. In all likelihood, unless really old, it's balanced.

 

What model is it?

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