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XLR cables


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Roll your own man! Everyone needs to know how to solder!

 

I have made more than my share of audio cables. With all that is going on I would just rather buy them this time around. :)

 

BTW, went to audiopile.net. I like the MBQN series and will probably pick up about 10 20' units to start with.

 

Question -

 

What does, "XXR Colored Rings (fits Neutrik "XX" series only)" mean?

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Question -


What does, "XXR Colored Rings (fits Neutrik "XX" series only)" mean?

 

 

They are colored rings fit on the shell of Neutrik XLR connectors and are you used to identify various things. I use them to indicate length, they can be found on multi-channel snakes to identify each send, etc.

 

XXR-# (The number indicates the color) Fit the NC3MXX/NC3FXX line of connectors. XCR-# Fit the NC3FX/NC3MX line of connectors.

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They are colored rings fit on the shell of Neutrik XLR connectors and are you used to identify various things. I use them to indicate length, they can be found on multi-channel snakes to identify each send, etc.


XXR-# (The number indicates the color) Fit the NC3MXX/NC3FXX line of connectors. XCR-# Fit the NC3FX/NC3MX line of connectors.

Correct. The NC3MXX/NC3FXX ends come stock with black rings, which can be changed to a different color without unsoldering the cord end. Changing the rings is a simple process of:

 

1) Unthread the compression boot.

2) Slide the shell off.

3) Remove the old colored ring.

4) Reinstall the new colored ring.

5) Replace the shell and rethread the compression boot.

 

Here's a picture showing violet/purple (XXR-V) colored rings installed in-place of the stock black rings on Neutrik XX series ends:

 

XXR_%20CLOSEUP_500w.jpg

 

BTW: I really like these Neutrik XX series XLR ends. I personally believe they're a truly better product (regardless of who's cables they're assembed on).

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BTW: I really like these Neutrik XX series XLR ends. I personally believe they're a truly better product (regardless of who's cables they're assembed on).

 

 

Do you mean in general, or compared to the 'X' connectors? I guess, what is better about them? (Just a curiosity thing)

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I guess, what is better about them? (Just a curiosity thing)

 

A few notable details:

 

1) The contact points in the NC3FXX (female) ends are a spiral flute design. I believe this is vastly superior to the common straight flute design. I believe this spiral flute design is more forgiving of wide variations in MXLR contact pin diameter, and retains contact properties better.

 

2) The PVC (plastic) compression boot's thread inserts into the metal shell, rather than wrapping over the metal shell. I believe this evolved design makes a more durable cord end.

 

3) IMO: The locking/release mechanism on the NC3FXX (female) ends are really good (both from durability and ergonomic standpoints).

 

4) The combination of the improved compression sleeve with the compressive design of the ID ring allows for a wide variation of cable OD.

 

In a nut-shell: I believe Neutrik truly came-up with a new trick on the age-old XLR cord end design with these XX series ends (again: regardless of who's cables they're assembled on).

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I'm looking to purchase some XLR cables for mics as well as feeds to powered speakers. I don't want to break the bank but I also don't want cheapies. Good connectors with a quality rugged cable.


Any thoughts??


Thanks!

 

I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of ALL the EWI cables I bought. :thu:

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I dont know about that man.. I have made a bunch of snakes and xlr cables and have had zero failures so far. But i only set up and tear down maybe four times a month weekend warrior i guess but I feel like my homemade are really good. i get my parts from audiopyle though

 

 

Might be fine for the weekend-warrior, but if you don't know how to
really
solder, all you'll end up with is a pile of half-assed cables that will fail the first time you put any stress on them. Unless you're good at soldering you will get a much better value by buying finished cables. That having been said, by the time you get done with a marathon session of putting together 25 cables (150 solder joints), you should have the basics down.




They are colored rings fit on the shell of Neutrik XLR connectors and are you used to identify various things. I use them to indicate length, they can be found on multi-channel snakes to identify each send, etc.


XXR-# (The number indicates the color) Fit the NC3MXX/NC3FXX line of connectors. XCR-# Fit the NC3FX/NC3MX line of connectors.

 

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I dont know about that man.. I have made a bunch of snakes and xlr cables and have had zero failures so far. But i only set up and tear down maybe four times a month weekend warrior i guess but I feel like my homemade are really good. i get my parts from audiopyle though

 

 

I was making a generalization. For someone to run to the Ratshack, pick up an iron and start soldering connectors on? Not a good idea, IMO. The solder joint is the most likely place for failure. When you think about the value of it, assuming that you're ordering all of the componenet from Audiopile: 25' Starline ($7.50), NC3FXXB($4.50), NC3MXXB ($4.00) = $16. If you buy the same cable pre-made it's only $18 and comes with a five year warranty. Most (you may or may not be included in this) people cannot achieve the same level of solder joint that a professionally manufactured cable will have.

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http://www.rondomusic.com/brightprm25.html


Have no opinion on the quality and have no idea, was looking at them mostly for extras for home recording. 5 25ft mic cables for 25 bucks is pretty good, though.


Better quality is always better, but if you need 5 cables and only have 25 bucks...

 

 

Then you only have enough to buy one or two cables.

 

 

Why does everything have to be available cheaper? Is there no point where something is unacceptable?

 

I've had a few of these MIC cables. The ends don't fit. That's right, they physically won't plug in. Had 1/4" plugs that are too fat to fit into a jack. Had one XLR cable that couldn't even plug into itself. Yep, the F side had pin holes on the end plate that were too small for the M side pins.

 

But at least they were cheap.

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Ditto - Don't grab blindly at the cables in the bottom of the barrel. I think we've all been there before. I bought around 20 Pulsar XLR cables once and at least 10 failed within 30 days. I soldered a few for use as permenant connections in the practice room, and chucked the rest. There are enough variables at a gig without having to troubleshoot bad cables.

 

80% of my cables are audiopile and as soon as the 25 ft XLR's are back in stock they'll all be. I've had no EWI XLR cables fail since switching to them over 250 shows ago. I've had one EWI instrument cable fail, but it wasn't one of mine so I don't know what kind of abuse it endured.

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